PSA replace you wheel studs yearly

[Estoril]

Sergmann, I feel your pain. I've been there. Good call.

Several of us switched to MSI Racing studs: http://www.msirp.com/wheel-studs-index#bmw

When I swapped to Bimmerworld's racing control arms and the roll center correction kit for the front end, I installed the Core4 Motorsports front hubs with pressed in studs (they use MSI Racing studs) and eventually will do the rear hubs when needed. They offer some tech tips as well: https://www.core4motorsports.com/tech

https://www.core4motorsports.com/pro...hub-conversion

Sadly, my left rear stud failure (not MSI Racing studs) at Mid-Ohio is in Core4's web site in their "Gallery of Broken Studs". The photographer at the event caught the entire failure on camera with a series of photos.

Feff

Unfortunately, no-one has had MSI 12x1.5 85.5mm studs in stock for more than 6 months. I've been trying to replace mine on schedule.

[Sergmann]

Track workers found 3 of the 5. The short one is the one I imagine broke first.

[repoman89]

I will be looking into the press in options as I rebuild the car. These were fcp studs btw but I’m not sure that matters.

as for wheel bolts, I’ve seen them fail too. A good friend still runs them on his e36 track car and broke one earlier this year. He replaced all 20 with new OEM stuff and has broken two since.

im not sure what is happening as of late with the studs but I have seen more failures in the past two years than the previous 10!!

The motorsport hardware ones they sell, specifically? Scary and good reminder, thanks for sharing. Guess I'll use the fcp warranty for once and replace them every spring.

[Sergmann]

Sergmann, I feel your pain. I've been there. Good call.

Several of us switched to MSI Racing studs: http://www.msirp.com/wheel-studs-index#bmw

When I swapped to Bimmerworld's racing control arms and the roll center correction kit for the front end, I installed the Core4 Motorsports front hubs with pressed in studs (they use MSI Racing studs) and eventually will do the rear hubs when needed. They offer some tech tips as well: https://www.core4motorsports.com/tech

https://www.core4motorsports.com/product-page/core4-e46-m3-ulimtate-press-in-stud-hub-conversion

Sadly, my left rear stud failure (not MSI Racing studs) at Mid-Ohio is in Core4's web site in their "Gallery of Broken Studs". The photographer at the event caught the entire failure on camera with a series of photos.

Feff

Had a pretty good conversation with Tom at Core 4 today. He is very enthusiastic about wheel studs and is a wealth of knowledge on the topic. I am going to go with their 12mm press in studs on all 4 corners. They have a new proprietary lug nut coming out shortly that closely mimics the Porsche wheel bolt. The idea is to reduce galling that occurs with a standard lug nut and aluminum wheels. Im going to get those as well. Hopefully this is a real solution to this issue and I can drive again without breaking studs at random on my mind....

[bigjae46]

First...I recommend NEVER running a spacer less than 12mm on a BMW. A 5mm spacer will cause issues depending on the depth of the chamfer on the back of the wheel bore. There might be only a small portion of the hub lip touching the wheel bore. Although not standard, the wheel hub lip is typically 10mm high. So a spacer needs to be at least 12mm to properly mate with the wheel hub.

1. Clean wheel hub, lip and back of wheel - make sure there is no corrosion, dirt or debris.
2. Spin lug nuts on with a smaller battery impact, gets it to about 60 ft/lbs
3. Torque with a digital torque wrench to 85 ft/lb and stay within +/- 1 ft/lb
4. Drive
5. Check torque at -5 lb from spec (80ft/lb)

I think people over think this. I witness people putting their full weight into pulling the torque wrench. Doesn't take much to go from 85 ft/lb to 110 ft/lb - probably about 1/8 of a turn. If you are using a long 1/2" torque wrench, doesn't take much effort either. I see people re-torqueing their wheels mid-day. I've seen shop install studs with a spacer and not have full thread engagement - then told her to torque them to 120 ft/lbs.

I've ran studs for 14 years on the track on 3 different cars. Never had one break at the track.

Keep it simple. Clean, torque, roll, recheck, leave it the hell alone. No spacers!

[elbert]

Had a pretty good conversation with Tom at Core 4 today. He is very enthusiastic about wheel studs and is a wealth of knowledge on the topic. I am going to go with their 12mm press in studs on all 4 corners. They have a new proprietary lug nut coming out shortly that closely mimics the Porsche wheel bolt. The idea is to reduce galling that occurs with a standard lug nut and aluminum wheels. Im going to get those as well. Hopefully this is a real solution to this issue and I can drive again without breaking studs at random on my mind....

Good to know about the lug nuts. I'll get a set when they're available. It's been kind of annoying to lube the lug nut seats.
I've been running the Core 4 studs (ARP, MSI was out of stock at the time) this season and have been happy with them. Of course, only time will tell...

[CrookedCommie]

Good to know about the lug nuts. I'll get a set when they're available. It's been kind of annoying to lube the lug nut seats.
I've been running the Core 4 studs (ARP, MSI was out of stock at the time) this season and have been happy with them. Of course, only time will tell...

Agreed, but firing up the MAPP torch in the paddock to extract a snapped stud is a bit more annoying

Will likely go with Core4 next time wheel bearings are due.

[elbert]

They have a new proprietary lug nut coming out shortly that closely mimics the Porsche wheel bolt. The idea is to reduce galling that occurs with a standard lug nut and aluminum wheels. Im going to get those as well. Hopefully this is a real solution to this issue and I can drive again without breaking studs at random on my mind....

Got an email this morning -- the floating collar lug nuts ("FLug" as they call them) are now available. $9.50 each, "while supplies last" (I bought 22 )

[CrookedCommie]

Got an email this morning -- the floating collar lug nuts ("FLug" as they call them) are now available. $9.50 each, "while supplies last" (I bought 22 )

Got these along with the Core4 pressed in studs. Everything looks really solid. Looking forward to not having to put anti-seize on the lug nuts, and also not losing any more wheels once is enough.

[Sergmann]

Got an email this morning -- the floating collar lug nuts ("FLug" as they call them) are now available. $9.50 each, "while supplies last" (I bought 22 )

I have been running these all season. Nice lugs for sure and good piece of mind. $220 for lug nuts isn't cheap but racecar......

[lvm3sm46]

Whats wrong with these?

https://www.systemmotorsports.com/collections/lugnuts-m12x1-5/products/copy-of-project-kics-r40-iconix-lug-nuts-locks-black-caps-2

[elbert]

Whats wrong with these?
https://www.systemmotorsports.com/co...s-black-caps-2

The Core4 lugs are Grade 12.9 (minimum Brinell hardness of 353), which is needed when used with their stud kit.
The R26 and R40 lugs are supposedly made with SM435 CrMo alloy (hardness of 187-229), which means they aren't even Grade 10.9 (minimum hardness 295).

The cost is the same too, not to mention the R40 Iconix you tried to link has locking lugs, which aren't wanted for a track car.

[lvm3sm46]

elbert thanks you for explaining the hardness, I was curious about that but couldn't find which was harder and I agree I definitely dont want a locking lug nut.