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Inspecting Wheel Studs?

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    #31
    Originally posted by CrookedCommie View Post

    Probably one of the few jobs that I'd have a shop do. Never again.
    Definitely a worthwhile upgrade when the wheel bearings go bad. That's when i plan on making the switch.

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      #32
      Originally posted by Estoril View Post
      To the question: You cannot inspect studs for impending failure - short of having a metallurgy lab (in fact I plan to send my current studs to a University metallurgy lab for inspection - arranged by a friend). As noted earlier - studs are wear items. Change them on a schedule. If you wait for failure - you'll get the failure you were waiting for.

      If you beat on studs with an impact wrench, cut your change interval in half.

      After looking extensively at all options - I went with MSI. Buy once, cry once.


      This is what semi-regular impact wrench beating with no torque stick gets. All of these failed mid-turn with costly damage (not my failure/car). Note the internal corrosion on all of them due to hairline cracks.

      Click image for larger version

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      The owner didn't do any of his own brake/tire work - so likely both. Shops like fast & easy.

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        #33
        Definitely a wear item, replace as such. Also a PITA when you have one shear at the track without proper tools to remove

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          #34
          Originally posted by Feffman View Post
          .....Snap On Stud Installer: https://shop.snapon.com/product/MSK-M1215N .....l
          If you are using the bullet nose style wheel studs, the Snap-On stud installer doesn't have a deep enough well. I've reached out to Snap-On's "Submit a Product Idea" group to develop a deep-well version of the stud installer. Fingers crossed. ๐Ÿ˜Ž

          Feff
          MVP Track Time

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            #35
            Originally posted by Feffman View Post

            If you are using the bullet nose style wheel studs, the Snap-On stud installer doesn't have a deep enough well. I've reached out to Snap-On's "Submit a Product Idea" group to develop a deep-well version of the stud installer. Fingers crossed. ๐Ÿ˜Ž

            Feff
            The need for them to make a special tool for this has me asking a question. Is there something wrong or damaging about using the double nut method?
            2003.5 Titanium Silver / Black 6M/T (Gone)
            2003.5 Carbon Black / Laguna Seca Blue SMG (Dusted)
            2004 Carbon Black / Black SMG converted to 6M/T(Current)

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              #36
              Originally posted by SandeepM3 View Post

              The need for them to make a special tool for this has me asking a question. Is there something wrong or damaging about using the double nut method?
              For Apex studs the torque to install is only 22-25 ft./lbs. I canโ€™t imagine a double nut is going to distort threads. Itโ€™s so little that if you have the hex head type you will even be fine without double nutting it to get the torque with just the hex socket.


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                #37
                Originally posted by SandeepM3 View Post

                The need for them to make a special tool for this has me asking a question. Is there something wrong or damaging about using the double nut method?
                The bw race studs spec 70 lb-ft or something like that


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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