Ever reused brace plate bolts?

[jbfrancis3]

I haven't snapped a bolt yet but around the 3rd time re-use I noticed a lot of yielding. I never felt great about re-use but there was a time when messing around with power steering that I had the plate off quite a bit. I used new bolts on the most recent installation.

The bolts that I've found really yield and should definitely be one-time use are the rear brace bolts (qty 3).

[Flat-Six]

I've had mine off now 3-4 times. I ck the threads, make sure they are all close to same length, and definitely make sure I don't go over 90°. So far they feel fine when going to 90°. I'll prob replace next time though...FCP.

[Cubieman]

I haven't snapped a bolt yet but around the 3rd time re-use I noticed a lot of yielding. I never felt great about re-use but there was a time when messing around with power steering that I had the plate off quite a bit. I used new bolts on the most recent installation.

The bolts that I've found really yield and should definitely be one-time use are the rear brace bolts (qty 3).

I better do those as well, I've reused them 3x now.

[timmo]

I need to figure out how to "activate" the paypal return feature that covers return shipping, it has been discussed on the forum more than once. I *think* you are allowed a certain number of free returns per year, they are not indefinite, but I don't know. That would be good for sending back oil or other heavy items.

That process has been pretty painless as well, I've used it 3 or 4 times so far. It's up to 12x a year, up to $30 a shipment. For very big or heavy items I split my orders up such that shipping cost almost never exceeds the $30 limit.

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[bigjae46]

I reuse the bolts at least a couple of times. Never had an issue and it just seems wasteful. I’m one of those guys who blasts the bolts on with an impact.

They are not torque to yield. You’d definitely strip the threads in the cast aluminum FCABs before the bolt stretches.

The key bolts are the 4 FCAB bolts.


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[Ianb]

After first getting my car I reused the bolts a few times and then after reading about replacing them, I checked them and a few had started to tear in the thread grooves. I may even still have the bolts.

[Arith2]

I've had my plate off over 20 times. Bolts are perfectly fine. The only reason I replaced a couple was the heads were gummed up from some previous idiot and one was a 15mm head. Other than that, I have never replaced them. None have snapped. I am also pretty meticulous about torquing bolts, however these don't fall in that category. They come out with and impact, they go in with an impact. I don't have time to waste on these stupid things. Sometimes it is worth it. In this case, it is not.

[Obioban]

If you're torquing them to spec (with the 90 deg), you should replace them. If you're just impacting them on, no need.

I think it's absolutely worth torquing them to spec, as the thrust plate was listed as one of the main reasons the M3 chassis is 50% more rigid than the non M e46 coupe.

[Flat-Six]

I've had my plate off over 20 times. Bolts are perfectly fine. The only reason I replaced a couple was the heads were gummed up from some previous idiot and one was a 15mm head. Other than that, I have never replaced them. None have snapped. I am also pretty meticulous about torquing bolts, however these don't fall in that category. They come out with and impact, they go in with an impact. I don't have time to waste on these stupid things. Sometimes it is worth it. In this case, it is not.

So when you impact, what torque spec are you using?

[bigjae46]

So when you impact, what torque spec are you using?

About 5 ugga-duggas which on my battery impact comes out to a consistent 65ft/lbs.


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[r4dr]

If you're torquing them to spec (with the 90 deg), you should replace them. If you're just impacting them on, no need.

I think it's absolutely worth torquing them to spec, as the thrust plate was listed as one of the main reasons the M3 chassis is 50% more rigid than the non M e46 coupe.

TTA (torque to angle) doesn't change the bolt like TTY (torque to yield) specs do. It's a way to get consistent clamping load without needing to account for varying levels of friction due to bolt age or differences.

You can re-use TTA bolts, I suspect BMW says to replace them because if the threads get damaged or excessively worn you can damage the aluminum threads that some of the bolts go into. It's the same story with Porsche and their "one-time use" caliper bolts. Aluminum upright, steel bolt.

Edit: I should add that if you want to use new bolts, there's nothing that's forcing you to use BMW parts. They're just 10.9-grade M10x1.5x35 steel bolts with a flange and a washer. You could buy these from somewhere like McMaster by the bucketful for cheap.

[r4dr]

To follow-up, the M10x1.5 torque spec for a zinc-plated bolt is ~45.2 lb-ft. BMW specs 44 lb-ft plus 90*. Their spec won't stretch it beyond the yield point, it's just a TTA spec.

[oceansize]

Another anecdotal data point. I replaced all of my bolts the second time I removed my plate because most had partially rounded heads from PO. I've since removed my plate at least 5 to 7x. Bolts are fine, no issues. 44 lb-ft plus 90.

[Flat-Six]

TTA (torque to angle) doesn't change the bolt like TTY (torque to yield) specs do. It's a way to get consistent clamping load without needing to account for varying levels of friction due to bolt age or differences.

You can re-use TTA bolts, I suspect BMW says to replace them because if the threads get damaged or excessively worn you can damage the aluminum threads that some of the bolts go into. It's the same story with Porsche and their "one-time use" caliper bolts. Aluminum upright, steel bolt.

Edit: I should add that if you want to use new bolts, there's nothing that's forcing you to use BMW parts. They're just 10.9-grade M10x1.5x35 steel bolts with a flange and a washer. You could buy these from somewhere like McMaster by the bucketful for cheap.

$.71ea (Yellow Zinc) $.65ea (BLK) at Belmetric....(10.9-grade M10x1.5x35)

[Tbonem3]

Or see if the bolts holding FCABs are much cheaper. Ssame bolt basically, but with washer instead of flange.