Just found this video showing how to remove and reinstall the stock throttle body clamps.
I've resued mine tens of times and never had any issues. I've found that once you get the hang of them, they're just as easy to take on and off as worm clamps. But the stock ones will never interfere with your throttle linkage.
You can use a tool like the one used in the video, but I just use regular needle nose pliers.
Additionally, I've found that clocking the clamps in the following fashion will give the best access for the next time they need to come off. No need to remove the fuel or air rails if they're clocked like this. It does help to disconnect the idle air valve connector and move it out of the way, though.
Cylinders 1 and 2:
Cylinders 3 and 4:
Cylinders 5 and 6:
Note: Cylinder 6 clamp is on backwards compared to the others. I've found it makes it easier to get on and off.
Hopefully this helps someone!
I've resued mine tens of times and never had any issues. I've found that once you get the hang of them, they're just as easy to take on and off as worm clamps. But the stock ones will never interfere with your throttle linkage.
You can use a tool like the one used in the video, but I just use regular needle nose pliers.
Additionally, I've found that clocking the clamps in the following fashion will give the best access for the next time they need to come off. No need to remove the fuel or air rails if they're clocked like this. It does help to disconnect the idle air valve connector and move it out of the way, though.
Cylinders 1 and 2:
Cylinders 3 and 4:
Cylinders 5 and 6:
Note: Cylinder 6 clamp is on backwards compared to the others. I've found it makes it easier to get on and off.
Hopefully this helps someone!
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