New to me M3, sparkly oil, looking for impressions

[Pklauser]

Yup, I wasn't very clear with my answer either . Reason why I said I had the vanos off is because I also took off the timing chain sprockets. I'm pretty sure I did exactly what you said. Don't remember removing the passenger's side guide though.

Cool cool. Well I'll do some measuring and potentially give the crow's foot a try. The threaded portion of the pivot looks pretty short, so maybe it'll work? Worst case this can serve as knowledge for the next person. Appreciate your insights so that I know this is at least possible without pulling the head!

[heinzboehmer]

You could also take off the circlip and pull the guide forward a bit. Should give you some space to get a wrench on the lower bolt.

[Pklauser]

You could also take off the circlip and pull the guide forward a bit. Should give you some space to get a wrench on the lower bolt.

Yea, the issue wasn't getting the wrench on, it was that it had no room to swing with the head on one side and the oil filter housing on the other. Crow's foot solved that problem ezpz. Unfortunately my suspicion that there's not enough room to unthread that lower pivot all the way was true. Looks like the vanos needs to come off so that I can remove the timing chain and swing the guide like you did.

Curious what people's thoughts are on replacing the chain while I'm here. Sounds like people don't really have issues with the chains wearing out on these cars, but mine has now been rubbing on a broken guide for some amount of time, could be cheap insurance.

[heinzboehmer]

Oh wow, the chain is only like $100. Thought it would be way more expensive.

Chain is probably fine since the guide is made of aluminum, but it is cheap...

[sapote]

Steel chain vs aluminum guide wouldn't change anything. But with timing cover removed I would replace the chain if it's not hard to get.

[Pklauser]

Been a minute here, but I was able to get that guide out! I'll be honest, I wasn't sure I was going to be able to, there just isn't much room there, even with the other guide removed:



I ended up needing to remove the bolt and the guide together. It put a little bit of strain on the bolt as it was coming out, we'll see what it's like going back in, but there was no way the guide was going to slip over the long end of that pivot there. heinzboehmer, I know you thought you put the bolt in first, then the guide second, but I saw no way that was possible 🤷♀️ Either way, appreciate your guidance and happy to have it out!



Still not a given that this is the main source of the metal, but this aluminum guide was definitely getting chewed up. Next steps are to put in all new guides, chains, etc, get this part of the motor back together, then check rod bearings.

Also the handle on my brand new OE cam tool pin pulled right off the first time I used it 🤔

[heinzboehmer]

I ended up needing to remove the bolt and the guide together. It put a little bit of strain on the bolt as it was coming out, we'll see what it's like going back in, but there was no way the guide was going to slip over the long end of that pivot there. heinzboehmer, I know you thought you put the bolt in first, then the guide second, but I saw no way that was possible 🤷♀️ Either way, appreciate your guidance and happy to have it out!

Glad you got it out!

It's totally possible that I'm misremembering. I'm inclined to believe you because you've got it in front of you and I did it a few years back. Let us know how you end up getting it back on so that it stays documented!

[cobra]

Would it be possible to replace the chain guide pivot bolt with something different? Right now there is a stud with a circlip groove. What if you used a shoulder bolt from the front so it would thread right on?

Don't forget to replace all your cooling system o-rings and gaskets or it'll leak when you put it back together.

[sapote]

Would it be possible to replace the chain guide pivot bolt with something different? Right now there is a stud with a circlip groove. What if you used a shoulder bolt from the front so it would thread right on?

1) If a bolt is used to substitute for that special thing, how to lock (torque) the bolt to prevent from backing out?
2) A normal bolt has threads instead of a smooth shaft working as a bearing surface to pivot the moving guide.
3) The pivot bearing shaft is smaller than the threaded section, so the bolt will not pass through from the front.

[sapote]

With the plastic gone from the guide, I wonder if the chain tensioner can compensate for the extra chain slack.
OP, did you hear abnormal noise of the chain?

[cobra]

1) If a bolt is used to substitute for that special thing, how to lock (torque) the bolt to prevent from backing out?
2) A normal bolt has threads instead of a smooth shaft working as a bearing surface to pivot the moving guide.
3) The pivot bearing shaft is smaller than the threaded section, so the bolt will not pass through from the front.

1. red locktite
2. shoulder bolt
3. You got me! I didn't realize the pivot pin diameter was so small.

[Pklauser]

If I struggle getting the pivot back in, I may try to shorten the threaded section a little. I'll cross that bridge when I get there. Good thought on the gaskets and o-rings, I figured I could reuse the o-rings, but for the cost it makes sense to just replace.

As far as extra chain noise goes, I don't think the plastic missing creates a ton of extra slack, so I'm sure the tensioner was able to compensate. As far as noise goes, I'm not experienced with the level of noise an S54 makes, but I didn't think it was especially loud or anything.

[sapote]

1. red locktite
.

Good try, but I don't think red loctite can hold a floating bolt from backing out very long. The vibration from the guide will shake the floating bolt (vs a torqued down bolt) and break the loctite bond.

[Pklauser]

Two weeks delivery time on these parts 😫 but they're here now!


Right, that's how that guide is supposed to look.

Got the new chain and guides on, also got the timing cover bolted back up. Next step installing the front crank seal! Not looking forward to it, but I'm going to try the solo cup method along with a piece of wood drilled out for the crank bolts.

[cobra]

How did you go about sealing the interface to the cyl head? I cleaned mine thoroughly and used some gasket maker in there. Hoping it holds up!