Arizona Smog Test - Failed

[BubbaTree]

In Schwaben, when you first connect it and it powers up, instead of going to the "BMW" application, go to "OBD2". From there, go to "I/M Readiness" and see what that says.

Depending on which monitor is not set or incomplete, will depend on what you do next for the "drive cycle", i.e. SAP monitor (as example) DOESN'T require you to drive the car at 55mph for 20mins to set, because that is not how/when that part of the monitor test is carried out.

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Thanks! I'll give this a go later this evening. I assume this test is performed key on, engine off?
Separately, the user manual I received with the scanner is pretty much generic. Are you aware of a more specific manual for this Pro scanner, or is it just learn by doing?
Thanks again!

[BubbaTree]

Here's the info I got from the AZ smog guys regarding their widget. FYI that gadget has not yet worked in my car. It only shows dark with none of the colored lights showing. I'll again got to the smog shop to see if the widget is dead, etc.

[BubbaTree]

In Schwaben, when you first connect it and it powers up, instead of going to the "BMW" application, go to "OBD2". From there, go to "I/M Readiness" and see what that says.

Depending on which monitor is not set or incomplete, will depend on what you do next for the "drive cycle", i.e. SAP monitor (as example) DOESN'T require you to drive the car at 55mph for 20mins to set, because that is not how/when that part of the monitor test is carried out.

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Checked for I/M Readiness, and here's what showed: Evaporative System Monitoring, INC.; Secondary Air System Monitoring, INC. All other modules showed either OK or N/A. I'll be doing more research about how to proceed, meanwhile, as always, and experienced advice is welcome.
Thanks!

[Tbonem3]

You don't need evap to work. Most done at this point in the cars' life.

You do need SAP to be working. Your air pump (the black round thing in front of coolant exp tank) could be bad or unplugged or wires chewed.

[jbfrancis3]

Checked for I/M Readiness, and here's what showed: Evaporative System Monitoring, INC.; Secondary Air System Monitoring, INC. All other modules showed either OK or N/A. I'll be doing more research about how to proceed, meanwhile, as always, and experienced advice is welcome.
Thanks!

The vehicle should be running. Also, didn’t achieve EVAP readiness until I refilled the tank with fuel.

[mrgizmo04]

Schwaben manual question - learn as you go, kinda how your learned to use computers or smart phones - click and see what happens. I've been through several versions of the orange Foxwell units and black Schwaben units. They all do something a bit different even on same version of software. Some functions/activities are not properly named or mapped in the ui.

To open the communication port with obd2, key has to be in position 2 (car doesn't need to be running).


For EVAP - make sure tank is >3/4 full. Hopefully your gas tank cap has a good seal. Start the car from cold (let it sit overnight, coolant has to be below 122F), then let car idle for about 5 minutes.

SAP - same testing conditions - when car is started from cold and idle for few mins (before it goes closed loop).

Barring software/hardware issues, both EVAP and SAP "should" set on the same cold start of the car, they dont need to be 2 separate cold starts.

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[Tbonem3]

Who cares about evap if smog test doesn't fail for it

[mrgizmo04]

Is that one of the 8 we dont need? AZ could be different.

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[BubbaTree]

Schwaben manual question - learn as you go, kinda how your learned to use computers or smart phones - click and see what happens. I've been through several versions of the orange Foxwell units and black Schwaben units. They all do something a bit different even on same version of software. Some functions/activities are not properly named or mapped in the ui.

To open the communication port with obd2, key has to be in position 2 (car doesn't need to be running).


For EVAP - make sure tank is >3/4 full. Hopefully your gas tank cap has a good seal. Start the car from cold (let it sit overnight, coolant has to be below 122F), then let car idle for about 5 minutes.

SAP - same testing conditions - when car is started from cold and idle for few mins (before it goes closed loop).

Barring software/hardware issues, both EVAP and SAP "should" set on the same cold start of the car, they dont need to be 2 separate cold starts.

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Thanks for the update. The smog shop handout is a 9 step drive cycle they want followed. If that's necessary, I'll get to it after I check out the SAP for leaks, etc. I was away for 2 months with the car in my garage, maybe a critter got to the wiring or something.
Just for information, since the first visit to the smog shop where the car failed to communicate, none of the instrument cluster lights have returned. While in the hands of that smog tech, the DSC and brake warning lights came on, and were out by the time I drove 20 minutes to get home. Just sayin' !
Thanks, again guys.

[Tbonem3]

Is that one of the 8 we dont need? AZ could be different.

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Ya, and I thought CA or east coast was the most strict.
EGT was removed as well. And I think there might be one more.

But we can't even have 1 inc for emissions monitoring like many states/counties can.

[BubbaTree]

You don't need evap to work. Most done at this point in the cars' life.

You do need SAP to be working. Your air pump (the black round thing in front of coolant exp tank) could be bad or unplugged or wires chewed.

I pulled out the secondary air pump canister, and saw no obvious defects, etc. I couldn't get the air hose off of the metal valve that bolts to the head, so didn't check or clean it. I guess I'm down to replacing the air pump, and that metal valve. Latest question: if I replace both of those units, can I expect the car to no longer show SAP and Evap systems INC, or should it then be ready for testing? Before throwing parts, I'll again check for fault codes and run OBDII readiness check. The fuel level is right at 3/4 so I'll waste some of that before test/check again and see what happens.
Thanks again for helping!

[Tbonem3]

You have to complete the drive cycles no matter what. Was the pump plugged in?

I wouldn't replace it yet. Have you done a cold start and let the car just sit and idle until the noise quiets and the idle drops a little? Take about a minute. Don't touch the gas pedal.

[BubbaTree]

You have to complete the drive cycles no matter what. Was the pump plugged in?

I wouldn't replace it yet. Have you done a cold start and let the car just sit and idle until the noise quiets and the idle drops a little? Take about a minute. Don't touch the gas pedal.

Yes, the pump was plugged in with no visible wiring or air hose damage. I just did the cold start and let the car idle for a bit. After about a minute or so, the idle dropped to about 900 or so and stayed smooth from there. As the idle speed dropped from about 1100-1200 down to about 1000, there was a slight irregularity in the idle. Didn't feel like a cylinder misfire or such, and it was barely noticeable, but it's there. I'll check out the monitor status and see what happens. Thanks.

[WOLFN8TR]

If you want to see if the SAP pump is working, remove the plastic hose from the pump and start the car. If the pump is working properly you will hear it when you start the car as it’s super loud! I would replace the hose from the pump to the valve as they are know to crack and cause a check engine light. Believe me as I had this problem and it was just the hose. They are such a cheaply made hose it’s laughable!
Good Luck…

[BubbaTree]

If you want to see if the SAP pump is working, remove the plastic hose from the pump and start the car. If the pump is working properly you will hear it when you start the car as it’s super loud! I would replace the hose from the pump to the valve as they are know to crack and cause a check engine light. Believe me as I had this problem and it was just the hose. They are such a cheaply made hose it’s laughable!
Good Luck…

Wolfn8tr, you could be my new hero! I started the engine with the hose removed from the pump and there's ZERO noise or airflow from the pump! The engine is hot from driving today - does that matter to this pump check?
Before I buy a new pump, I'll run down any fuses or relays that may be involved.
Thanks!