Originally posted by mrgizmo04
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Arizona Smog Test - Failed
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Originally posted by BubbaTree View Post
Wolfn8tr, you could be my new hero! I started the engine with the hose removed from the pump and there's ZERO noise or airflow from the pump! The engine is hot from driving today - does that matter to this pump check?
Before I buy a new pump, I'll run down any fuses or relays that may be involved.
Thanks!TTFS Engine/SMG Tune - CSL 255 - SGT Headers/Sect 1/SCZA
Brembo 996 - ARC-8's - BWS 500S 9k/11k - Valentine 1 - BlueBus - Orion V4's
Evolve Eventuri - VIS XTS CF Hood - CF Lip/Console/Diffuser/CSL Trunk
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Originally posted by WOLFN8TR View Post
I’m pretty sure the pump only comes on when the engine is cold. It reduces cold start emissions by injecting air into the engine on startup.
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2 people already told you it needs to be a cold start. Please read or it's not even worth our time to help.DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
/// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint
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To rule out that your Schwaben is not jacked up, do you have an obd2 bluetooth dongle? You can download the torque app and check data. Sometimes my Schwaben acts up and gets stuck on random screens when trying to connect, so I have to cycle they key off and reconnect it, then try to get to the screen I need to go to.
For what you are trying to set (sap/evap), you don't need to actually drive the car. You only need certain steps of the "drive cycle". "Drive cycle" is confusing because depending on what monitors you need to set, it might or might not require actual driving...
Depends if you have error codes, had work done on the car and had codes cleared (that resets all monitors). Then you need to carry out all the steps (which can be carried out independently - i.e. if you don't feel like driving on the highway 55mph to set O2 related monitors but want to just set all the other monitors, idle the car and shut it off, if you need to set o2 monitors, start the car and go drive, don't need to wait to do cold idle first, so steps are independent, not sequential).
Once the monitor sets it stays set between driving cycles (unless error codes are cleared, and some reported if disconnecting the battery).
If you fail at the testing center, it's easier for them to say "your monitors are not set, here is a brochure which explains how to set them, go follow the drive cycle". They don't spend the time to go through the detail of YOUR results to see which monitor(s) is/are not set, or explain which monitors require what conditions to carry out the testing/monitoring/setting (open loop cold idle, closed loop, highway load at speed, etc). The actual driving is for when the car is running in closed loop (off o2 and other sensors) to test o2 sensor operation and the catalyst efficiency (rear o2). So if your O2 related monitors were not set, you would have to put the car under load at constant speed for a period of time (i.e 55mph cruise control drive step). All other monitors (misfire, fuel system, evap, sap) are tested from a cold start when car is in open loop (running off base map) during the idle process. "Cold start" is when coolant temp is Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Last edited by mrgizmo04; 08-17-2021, 03:49 PM.Youtube DIYs and more
All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.
PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.
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Tapatalk app is acting up per usual. To finish the last sentence...
"Cold start" is when coolant temp is Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Youtube DIYs and more
All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.
PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.
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Still no. F it. Tapatalk takes less than symbol and thinks I'm writing some html and doesnt display the text that follows it. Tapatalk makes it more difficult to stay active here and to be helpful . It also doesnt notify me of a lot of messages (so sorry if I missed some).
So cold start is when temp is below 122F to force it back into open loop, which creates a condition for carrying out tests and setting specific monitors.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Last edited by mrgizmo04; 08-17-2021, 02:22 PM.Youtube DIYs and more
All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.
PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.
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The Evap and SAP monitors still won't reset, and here's the latest update. The local dealership has had the car all week, testing and running drive cycles with no luck. They are ready to reach out to BMW for help, and my question of the forum pertains to the IAT sensor that I relocated several years ago. Is that sensor and/or it's wiring a suspect in this problem? If the sensor has failed, surely it will throw a code, but is the same true if the wiring has somehow failed? I didn't think of this until today, and should probably tell the dealer guys about it if they haven't checked it. Thanks.
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Originally posted by BubbaTree View PostThe Evap and SAP monitors still won't reset, and here's the latest update. The local dealership has had the car all week, testing and running drive cycles with no luck. They are ready to reach out to BMW for help, and my question of the forum pertains to the IAT sensor that I relocated several years ago. Is that sensor and/or it's wiring a suspect in this problem? If the sensor has failed, surely it will throw a code, but is the same true if the wiring has somehow failed? I didn't think of this until today, and should probably tell the dealer guys about it if they haven't checked it. Thanks.
The dealership could try parking in in the showroom overnight. They don't need to do the entire drive cycle if the other monitors are set, just a cold start and idle for a few minutes.
You can have 1 not-ready monitor in Arizona.
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Originally posted by M3AZ View Post
You're going to have a hard time getting the SAP monitor to set in Phoenix during the summer when it rarely gets below 80 at night. I had to run an AC duct into my garage to cool it overnight to below 70 degrees. The next start it set.
The dealership could try parking in in the showroom overnight. They don't need to do the entire drive cycle if the other monitors are set, just a cold start and idle for a few minutes.
You can have 1 not-ready monitor in Arizona.
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Originally posted by BubbaTree View PostThe Evap and SAP monitors still won't reset, and here's the latest update. The local dealership has had the car all week, testing and running drive cycles with no luck. They are ready to reach out to BMW for help, and my question of the forum pertains to the IAT sensor that I relocated several years ago. Is that sensor and/or it's wiring a suspect in this problem? If the sensor has failed, surely it will throw a code, but is the same true if the wiring has somehow failed? I didn't think of this until today, and should probably tell the dealer guys about it if they haven't checked it. Thanks.
Can anyone comment on my earlier question regarding the relocation of the IAT sensor? I installed the Turner kit several years ago with no issues. Since AZ requires a smog test every 2 years, and the car has previously passed, I'm assuming it's OK. Any advice is appreciated.
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Originally posted by LVMESM46 View PostJust trying to help but look through this thread regarding the IAT starting around post #10
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...4666-karbonius
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“If your BMW has not yet completed the EVAP Monitor”
( Is the Gas Cap in good condition? )
This OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F). Let your BMW cool down overnight, and begin the drive cycle process the next day.
(Make sure you have between 1/4 and 3/4 fuel in the gas tank. The EVAP test will not run while your BMW's gas tank is full or near empty)
( Do not go over 3000 rpms )
- Start the engine. Idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on.
- Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle.
- Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
- Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. - Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at ¾ throttle.
- Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.
- Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking.
If all other emissions systems are functioning properly, completing the drive cycle above should set the "readiness flags" required to pass the smog check. It will not hurt to perform the drive cycle 2 or 3 times before the smog inspection.
TTFS Engine/SMG Tune - CSL 255 - SGT Headers/Sect 1/SCZA
Brembo 996 - ARC-8's - BWS 500S 9k/11k - Valentine 1 - BlueBus - Orion V4's
Evolve Eventuri - VIS XTS CF Hood - CF Lip/Console/Diffuser/CSL Trunk
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