Arizona Smog Test - Failed

[BubbaTree]

Schwaben manual question - learn as you go, kinda how your learned to use computers or smart phones - click and see what happens. I've been through several versions of the orange Foxwell units and black Schwaben units. They all do something a bit different even on same version of software. Some functions/activities are not properly named or mapped in the ui.

To open the communication port with obd2, key has to be in position 2 (car doesn't need to be running).


For EVAP - make sure tank is >3/4 full. Hopefully your gas tank cap has a good seal. Start the car from cold (let it sit overnight, coolant has to be below 122F), then let car idle for about 5 minutes.

SAP - same testing conditions - when car is started from cold and idle for few mins (before it goes closed loop).

Barring software/hardware issues, both EVAP and SAP "should" set on the same cold start of the car, they dont need to be 2 separate cold starts.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I'm still trying to explore anything at all that may be causing this issue. Using the black Schwaben scanner, I tried to open the communication port with OBDII, key on, engine off but not stone cold. The screens progressed until it reached the Protocol heading, and showing ISO 91 41-2 . At that point, it did not show me anything further. Following the same steps with engine on, I got to see the various monitors, and most of them showed condition to be N/A. Maybe I'm going from bad to worse?

[WOLFN8TR]

Wolfn8tr, you could be my new hero! I started the engine with the hose removed from the pump and there's ZERO noise or airflow from the pump! The engine is hot from driving today - does that matter to this pump check?
Before I buy a new pump, I'll run down any fuses or relays that may be involved.
Thanks!

I’m pretty sure the pump only comes on when the engine is cold. It reduces cold start emissions by injecting air into the engine on startup.

[BubbaTree]

I’m pretty sure the pump only comes on when the engine is cold. It reduces cold start emissions by injecting air into the engine on startup.

I think you're right about the cold start. I pulled the pump and applied 12v on the bench, and it fired right up. Still got to check the remaining fuses and relay, then test the cold start voltage at the pump next. If I can eliminate the hardware issues, I'll get to that drive-cycle stuff next. Thanks for the help.

[WOLFN8TR]

Good troubleshooting! Welcome…👍

[Tbonem3]

2 people already told you it needs to be a cold start. Please read or it's not even worth our time to help.

[mrgizmo04]

To rule out that your Schwaben is not jacked up, do you have an obd2 bluetooth dongle? You can download the torque app and check data. Sometimes my Schwaben acts up and gets stuck on random screens when trying to connect, so I have to cycle they key off and reconnect it, then try to get to the screen I need to go to.

For what you are trying to set (sap/evap), you don't need to actually drive the car. You only need certain steps of the "drive cycle". "Drive cycle" is confusing because depending on what monitors you need to set, it might or might not require actual driving...

Depends if you have error codes, had work done on the car and had codes cleared (that resets all monitors). Then you need to carry out all the steps (which can be carried out independently - i.e. if you don't feel like driving on the highway 55mph to set O2 related monitors but want to just set all the other monitors, idle the car and shut it off, if you need to set o2 monitors, start the car and go drive, don't need to wait to do cold idle first, so steps are independent, not sequential).

Once the monitor sets it stays set between driving cycles (unless error codes are cleared, and some reported if disconnecting the battery).

If you fail at the testing center, it's easier for them to say "your monitors are not set, here is a brochure which explains how to set them, go follow the drive cycle". They don't spend the time to go through the detail of YOUR results to see which monitor(s) is/are not set, or explain which monitors require what conditions to carry out the testing/monitoring/setting (open loop cold idle, closed loop, highway load at speed, etc). The actual driving is for when the car is running in closed loop (off o2 and other sensors) to test o2 sensor operation and the catalyst efficiency (rear o2). So if your O2 related monitors were not set, you would have to put the car under load at constant speed for a period of time (i.e 55mph cruise control drive step). All other monitors (misfire, fuel system, evap, sap) are tested from a cold start when car is in open loop (running off base map) during the idle process. "Cold start" is when coolant temp is Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[mrgizmo04]

Tapatalk app is acting up per usual. To finish the last sentence...

"Cold start" is when coolant temp is Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[mrgizmo04]

Still no. F it. Tapatalk takes less than symbol and thinks I'm writing some html and doesnt display the text that follows it. Tapatalk makes it more difficult to stay active here and to be helpful . It also doesnt notify me of a lot of messages (so sorry if I missed some).

So cold start is when temp is below 122F to force it back into open loop, which creates a condition for carrying out tests and setting specific monitors.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[BubbaTree]

The Evap and SAP monitors still won't reset, and here's the latest update. The local dealership has had the car all week, testing and running drive cycles with no luck. They are ready to reach out to BMW for help, and my question of the forum pertains to the IAT sensor that I relocated several years ago. Is that sensor and/or it's wiring a suspect in this problem? If the sensor has failed, surely it will throw a code, but is the same true if the wiring has somehow failed? I didn't think of this until today, and should probably tell the dealer guys about it if they haven't checked it. Thanks.

[M3AZ]

The Evap and SAP monitors still won't reset, and here's the latest update. The local dealership has had the car all week, testing and running drive cycles with no luck. They are ready to reach out to BMW for help, and my question of the forum pertains to the IAT sensor that I relocated several years ago. Is that sensor and/or it's wiring a suspect in this problem? If the sensor has failed, surely it will throw a code, but is the same true if the wiring has somehow failed? I didn't think of this until today, and should probably tell the dealer guys about it if they haven't checked it. Thanks.

You're going to have a hard time getting the SAP monitor to set in Phoenix during the summer when it rarely gets below 80 at night. I had to run an AC duct into my garage to cool it overnight to below 70 degrees. The next start it set.

The dealership could try parking in in the showroom overnight. They don't need to do the entire drive cycle if the other monitors are set, just a cold start and idle for a few minutes.

You can have 1 not-ready monitor in Arizona.

[BubbaTree]

You're going to have a hard time getting the SAP monitor to set in Phoenix during the summer when it rarely gets below 80 at night. I had to run an AC duct into my garage to cool it overnight to below 70 degrees. The next start it set.

The dealership could try parking in in the showroom overnight. They don't need to do the entire drive cycle if the other monitors are set, just a cold start and idle for a few minutes.

You can have 1 not-ready monitor in Arizona.

The latest info from the dealer is that the EVAP and the SAP monitors are both still not ready. For kicks, I'll see where they store the car at night to help cool it down. Thanks!

[BubbaTree]

The Evap and SAP monitors still won't reset, and here's the latest update. The local dealership has had the car all week, testing and running drive cycles with no luck. They are ready to reach out to BMW for help, and my question of the forum pertains to the IAT sensor that I relocated several years ago. Is that sensor and/or it's wiring a suspect in this problem? If the sensor has failed, surely it will throw a code, but is the same true if the wiring has somehow failed? I didn't think of this until today, and should probably tell the dealer guys about it if they haven't checked it. Thanks.

The dealership has had the car for a week now with no success. I don't know how many cold start drive cycles they've done. They are keeping the car in their A/C service shop overnight before doing a drive cycle, but still no success. They were to open an engineering case with the factory on Friday and I expect to hear from them today.

Can anyone comment on my earlier question regarding the relocation of the IAT sensor? I installed the Turner kit several years ago with no issues. Since AZ requires a smog test every 2 years, and the car has previously passed, I'm assuming it's OK. Any advice is appreciated.

[lvm3sm46]

Just trying to help but look through this thread regarding the IAT starting around post #10

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/e46-2001-2006/94666-karbonius

[BubbaTree]

Just trying to help but look through this thread regarding the IAT starting around post #10
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...4666-karbonius

Thanks for the response. I'm not too good at this stuff, but I'm wondering if that relocated kit, i.e. the sensor, wiring, etc, could have failed somehow, resulting in either the evaporation or sap monitor being unable to reset. That question seems moot since the dealership is now saying that the SAP is reset, but not the evap? In any event, they are now talking about replacing the DME. Looks like I may be in the market for a used DME as well as someone to code it for this car!!

[WOLFN8TR]

“If your BMW has not yet completed the EVAP Monitor”

( Is the Gas Cap in good condition? )

This OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F). Let your BMW cool down overnight, and begin the drive cycle process the next day.

(Make sure you have between 1/4 and 3/4 fuel in the gas tank. The EVAP test will not run while your BMW's gas tank is full or near empty)

( Do not go over 3000 rpms )

- Start the engine. Idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on.
- Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle.
- Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
- Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. - Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at ¾ throttle.
- Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.
- Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking.

If all other emissions systems are functioning properly, completing the drive cycle above should set the "readiness flags" required to pass the smog check. It will not hurt to perform the drive cycle 2 or 3 times before the smog inspection.