Running hot

[TexaZ3]

105 F today in Texas, took the car for some errands, and after driving for about 10 minutes, noticed the gauge creeping past mid-point when I was pushing it hard. On couple of occasions, I think I went even past that, uncomfortably close to the red zone Oil temp went from 210 to around 220. A/C is obviously on.

Car runs normal (no overheating) when idling. It also runs normal on the highway. Once I get on it in stop/go traffic, and/or push it hard enough, it starts to overheat. So, in a nutshell, runs hot when driving aggressively in the city. Fine at idle/highway speeds.

New fan clutch, fan, WP, TS, and coolant in the last 1k miles or so. Recent upper and lower hoses.
Radiator and temp sensor are of unknown age (probably original - 115k miles).

Would you suspect radiator at this point? Or something else? Any tests I could run to pinpoint?

Thanks!

[S3diment]

Coolant level ok?

[Tbonem3]

Yes, that rad is not clean inside anymore.

Which needle moves the most first, the oil or coolant?

Coolant problems like bad fan clutch usually don't cause the oil temp to go too far past the middle - the coolant needle should be going up more/first ime.

A new, well running coolant system will dip below middle when coasting on the freeway unless ambient temps are ridiculous.

[Tbonem3]

And for the love of God, no one suggest he has air in his system, our system is self bleeding for the 1,000 time.

[TexaZ3]

Coolant level ok?

Yup, level ok, proper mixture.

Yes, that rad is not clean inside anymore.

Which needle moves the most first, the oil or coolant?

Coolant problems like bad fan clutch usually don't cause the oil temp to go too far past the middle - the coolant needle should be going up more/first ime.

A new, well running coolant system will dip below middle when coasting on the freeway unless ambient temps are ridiculous.

Coolant needle moves first. It takes a while (5 min?) driving at a 3/4 on the water temp gauge for the oil to creep past 210 (middle).
I guess I'll order new radiator then. Thanks!

And for the love of God, no one suggest he has air in his system, our system is self bleeding for the 1,000 time.

Lol, amen.

[yhp2009]

From the other threads I got the impression that slightly above 210F was normal... especially if outside temps are hitting triple digits?

[heinzboehmer]

You should try bleeding the coolant. I've heard it helps if you turn the car upside down and put your whole garage under a vacuum.

No in all seriousness, probably your rad.

Also quick sidenote Tbonem3 : I've noticed that with the CSL intake and software, the coolant needle will dip below the middle when on the freeway. But, with fully stock everything, it stays right in the middle. I've changed too many variables at once to fully pinpoint what exactly causes this, but if I had to guess, I'd say it's software related.

[Tbonem3]

No changes in software in my 2 experiences

We have an accurate gauge as opposed to most cars which are "ok / NOT OKAY!!!!!"

I have no idea if your software change would affect the sensitivity or resolution or whatever of the temp reading, however.

[TexaZ3]

From the other threads I got the impression that slightly above 210F was normal... especially if outside temps are hitting triple digits?

Yeah, I'm not freaking out, just unusual given the fact this wasn't happening before, and nothing (except ambient temp) has changed. Perhaps 105F is too much!

[yhp2009]

Yeah, I'm not freaking out, just unusual given the fact this wasn't happening before, and nothing (except ambient temp) has changed. Perhaps 105F is too much!

I get you, better cautious than not when dealing with cooling. But if this is the first time your car's seen 105F then its entirely possible that this is normal. Meaning changing any part may not improve the temps. But if the radiator is original from factory then this is a great time to replace anyway

[TexaZ3]

I get you, better cautious than not when dealing with cooling. But if this is the first time your car's seen 105F then its entirely possible that this is normal. Meaning changing any part may not improve the temps. But if the radiator is original from factory then this is a great time to replace anyway

Well....we do hit these temps pretty regularly during the summer here, so while I'm not 100% positive, I'm sure over the past 4 years the car has seen some of it. Its not my DD, but I drive it fairly often. I think new radiator is a cheap insurance at this point anyway.

[Jimbo's M]

I'm in Tucson. 105F is child's play. My cooling system is original at almost twenty years old and I see 240F all the time in the summer. As long as it doesn't "sit there", I wouldn't sweat it. Pun intended.

[TexaZ3]

I'm in Tucson. 105F is child's play. My cooling system is original at almost twenty years old and I see 240F all the time in the summer. As long as it doesn't "sit there", I wouldn't sweat it. Pun intended.

lol, I wouldn't call it child's play, especially with Texas humidity!
240F water or oil?

[Jimbo's M]

lol, I wouldn't call it child's play, especially with Texas humidity!
240F water or oil?

Your motor couldn't care less about humidity/dew point. It's all about the ambient temp. 240F is oil. Water never goes past half.

[cobra]

I had weird overheating issues where it would creep up at medium speeds on hot days and once I replaced the fan clutch it never did it again