BlueBus: A fully integrated A2DP Bluetooth solution

[heinzboehmer]

Just added the ground loop isolator to my car like Ted suggested. What a difference! Very happy with how it turned out. Thanks Ted!

Here's details on how I did it in case anyone wants to replicate: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...ge8#post210857

[t3ddftw]

Hi Ted,

I have the bluebus since day one and really loving it! Never thought the audio quality could be so good with my low-end (basic) stock radio!

I also have a pretty noticable alternator whine sound coming through the speakers, related to the rpm. When the radio is turned off, the sound is gone.

Can a ground loop isolator help reduces this issue? If so, can you share a wire diagram where to place the isolator? I have a MID radio, non DSP (unfortunately) and non amp.

Also, I missed the recall action for the early v1 batch, related to the handsfree calling? How serious is the issue, do I risk the bluebus will stop working?

Kind regards,

Jeroen

Yeah, the isolator would very likely resolve your alternator whine.

I don't have a diagram for how it incorporates, but it's pretty simple -- the goal is to wire this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0171PQLB8/ inline with the 6-pin audio output connector from the BlueBus to the car. I sell adapters for this which convert the 6-pin to 3.5mm and back, making it plug and play.

Yeah, your BlueBus could just stop working one day. You should really send it in, but you'll have to send it to the U.S. at this point. Shoot me an email, please!

Thanks!
-Ted

[JeroenS]

Hi Ted,

I have the bluebus since day one and really loving it! Never thought the audio quality could be so good with my low-end (basic) stock radio!

I also have a pretty noticable alternator whine sound coming through the speakers, related to the rpm. When the radio is turned off, the sound is gone.

Can a ground loop isolator help reduces this issue? If so, can you share a wire diagram where to place the isolator? I have a MID radio, non DSP (unfortunately) and non amp.

Also, I missed the recall action for the early v1 batch, related to the handsfree calling? How serious is the issue, do I risk the bluebus will stop working?

Kind regards,

Jeroen

[t3ddftw]

What a difference this makes, thank you my good man! Beautiful crimps by the way.

Glad to hear it! You're super welcome

Are the new kits corrected for the issues above? This sounds like an amazing product - exactly what i am looking for to use my iphone with all original OEM stuff.

The issue above isn't exactly a problem with the BlueBus, rather the BlueBus is picking up noise from the electrical system and pumping it out. This only happens when the noise already exists (due to issues with the charging system). That being said, it doesn't happen to enough users to justify adding isolation to the audio output circuit. It's just easier (and cheaper for everyone) to fix it on a case by case basis.

Thanks!
-Ted

[audipwr1]

Are the new kits corrected for the issues above? This sounds like an amazing product - exactly what i am looking for to use my iphone with all original OEM stuff.

[WestBankM4]

Remove the cable that came with your isolator and toss it. Connect the 3.5mm ends from the two cables I sent to the isolator, then connect it inline with the 6-pin BlueBus audio connector.

What a difference this makes, thank you my good man! Beautiful crimps by the way.

[t3ddftw]

Hi Ted, I received the wire adapters and I've got my Ground Loop Isolator in tote.

Can you ELI5 what to do with these two wire adapters provided? My Isolator has a single 3.5mm jack coming off of it and a female 3.5mm jack input.

Remove the cable that came with your isolator and toss it. Connect the 3.5mm ends from the two cables I sent to the isolator, then connect it inline with the 6-pin BlueBus audio connector.

[WestBankM4]

Hi Ted, I received the wire adapters and I've got my Ground Loop Isolator in tote.

Can you ELI5 what to do with these two wire adapters provided? My Isolator has a single 3.5mm jack coming off of it and a female 3.5mm jack input.

[t3ddftw]

t3ddftw Any more information on the Ground loop isolator? For me the alternator whine is most annoying when the radio is off completely. Are the 6pin to 3.5mm adapters just wire adapters or is there more logic to it?

If the radio is fully off (via the knob), you really shouldn't be hearing A/C whine

It's just a simple wire adapter.

I buy these: https://www.adafruit.com/product/1700

Then I crimp on these terminals from TE connectivity:
1355719-1
1355717-1

Finally, I assemble the connector ends with these parts (also from TE):
1379118-1 (Vehicle end of the connector, which needs to have both ground pins populated)

185311-1 (Inner Terminals Housing)
953382-1 (Outer Housing)
953381-1 (Inner Housing locking cover)

Thanks!
-Ted

[Mc645]

t3ddftw Any more information on the Ground loop isolator? For me the alternator whine is most annoying when the radio is off completely. Are the 6pin to 3.5mm adapters just wire adapters or is there more logic to it?

[kolumbus007]

I definitely wouldn't activate the low beams in any case, haha.

For "Follow Me Home", lots of folks want the high beams on so they can illuminate their walkway. For Welcome Home, perhaps high beams don't make as much sense because you may not be aware of what's in the path of your light beam.

Hey Ted, i think with the flog Lights you can also illuminate their way. I also doesn‘t like the high beams idea, i’m also agree the dazzle argument from der_spanier. If the cornering lights were also on isnt relevant for me.

Yeah, that's true. My first M3 had them wired to the interior lamps, so they turned on when you unlocked the car, which was neat.

-Ted

Thats a really cool wirering idea!

[t3ddftw]

Xenons don't like being switched on and off too often, or at least that's what the owner manuals for both my E46 and E39 say. For this reason I'd keep the low beams off.

I wouldn't activate the high beams either: depending on where the car is parked, it could dazzle other road users.

Therefore I think the best compromise for the front would be the fog lights. Possibly corner lights too (could look good on facelift E39s and E53s, not too sure about the other cars not having angel eyes). At the back I'd switch the rear tail lights on.

Same pattern for "Welcome Home" and "Follow Me Home", I think. Or is there a reason the patterns should be different?

I definitely wouldn't activate the low beams in any case, haha.

For "Follow Me Home", lots of folks want the high beams on so they can illuminate their walkway. For Welcome Home, perhaps high beams don't make as much sense because you may not be aware of what's in the path of your light beam.

I think corner lights would be best bet as a lot of people have angle eyes wired into their corner lights aswell.

Yeah, that's true. My first M3 had them wired to the interior lamps, so they turned on when you unlocked the car, which was neat.

-Ted

[Rekpoint]

I think corner lights would be best bet as a lot of people have angle eyes wired into their corner lights aswell.

[Der_Spanier]

Xenons don't like being switched on and off too often, or at least that's what the owner manuals for both my E46 and E39 say. For this reason I'd keep the low beams off.

I wouldn't activate the high beams either: depending on where the car is parked, it could dazzle other road users.

Therefore I think the best compromise for the front would be the fog lights. Possibly corner lights too (could look good on facelift E39s and E53s, not too sure about the other cars not having angel eyes). At the back I'd switch the rear tail lights on.

Same pattern for "Welcome Home" and "Follow Me Home", I think. Or is there a reason the patterns should be different?

[0-60motorsports]

High beams in both cases or even xenon's but only if they aren't a bigger power draw