BlueBus: A fully integrated A2DP Bluetooth solution

[sleeks]

Sept orders going out soon? Is there an estimate on when those will ship? Order #2580

[t3ddftw]

Emailed your support. Have had an order since last October and still nothing…

Just shot you a response.

[Chas3n]

Emailed your support. Have had an order since last October and still nothing…

[sda2]

The Logic7 amp from 7-series E6x (MOST System) is not compatible with our Kline architecture. Front high/mid and read high speakers are connected to the ASK unit ("radio module" if you want to call it like that) and the subs and center and rear mid are connected to the external amplifier.

There are two options for DSPs with our E46s. The E38/E39 and E8x Top-Hifi amplifier units. E38/39 doesnt match impedance of our speakers. E83 doesnt match the pinout, E85/86 matches perfectly, but you will loose factory subwoofers. Touring doesnt have these, so its a perfect fit.

The E8x DSP amplifier has an internal powersupply that creates 30V supply voltage for the two TDA8926TH chips giving us 2 channels with 100W output power. On E83 these outputs are used for the subwoofers (Zentralbass) under the front seats, and E85 uses them for the carver design subs behind the seats.

Wiring is what makes the difference, but I will go into detail on that in the other thread. I have a complete set of E85 speakers including wiring on the way, so I can change the whole system to those speakers.

Regarding power, I just blew the two factory "bass" speakers in the trunk of my touring. I will put the two 6.5" carver subs in a 2x10L enclusure or maybe they will work in the factory touring cages.

[Obergoose]

No, Im using it in an E46 touring Once I finished the installation, I will make a thread on how to retrofit the newer K-Line DSP into this chassis.

Really looking forward to this! I've got the same Logic7? DSP in hand and on the project list. As far as I know, you're the first to take on this retrofit. Kudos.

Managed to snag a couple of the 10Ω subs from an E85 to pair and plan to box and mount them under the shelf in similar fashion to the HKs.

Curious how your existing speaker setup sounds with new amps. You running stock drivers? Planning to change?

[sda2]

No, Im using it in an E46 touring Once I finished the installation, I will make a thread on how to retrofit the newer K-Line DSP into this chassis.

The soldering was not that hard, i used a hot air gun to remove solder first. Carver DSPs seem to have it installed already.

The E8x DSP has 4 TDA1565TH (2x 40W) on it for low/mid, mid and high range speakers and 2 TDA8926TH (2x 50W but probably bridged to 1x 100W) to power the subs (10Ohms).

[t3ddftw]

I just connected the DSP and I have to say, the sound quality with fully digital audio is just awesome! Thank you

Btw. all E83/5/6 DSPs can be retrofitted with a digital in, just salvage the connector from the CD changer and solder it to the PCB of the DSP.

Can I assume you're using this in a Z4M? If you're using the DSP Amp in an E46, I think we'd all want details

This SMB connector also works: https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...317-ND/1011994

I've retrofit the connector to a local customers amplifier and I didn't love the process. The factory ran the PCB through a wave soldering machine, so in my experience, it was difficult to install the jack. In the end though, the results were worth it.

Thanks!
-Ted

[sda2]

I just connected the DSP and I have to say, the sound quality with fully digital audio is just awesome! Thank you

Btw. all E83/5/6 DSPs can be retrofitted with a digital in, just salvage the connector from the CD changer and solder it to the PCB of the DSP.

[t3ddftw]

Hello Ted,

I'm ashamed, I never took time to send you back my first unit with cold issues with need to replace SMD...

To be honest since COVID period, I did not use the M5 that much...

The bluebus is still in its package ready to send back to you...

You can send it anytime, just make sure you note your name on the package

-Ted

[Orphee]

Hello Ted,

I'm ashamed, I never took time to send you back my first unit with cold issues with need to replace SMD...

To be honest since COVID period, I did not use the M5 that much...

The bluebus is still in its package ready to send back to you...

[t3ddftw]

I also just got my Bluebus delivered and it works like a charm

Now I have to install the E85 DSP that was in my mail today

Is there a pinout available for the ULF 6pin connection?

It's stamped on the bottom of the PCB. It's a bit more clunky, but you can see it here: https://cadlab.io/project/1479/maste...ZUJ1cy5zY2g%3D -- it's J3.

Pin 6 is the top row of pins, pin closest to the audio output connector and furthest from the coaxial SMB connector for S/PDIF.

Thanks!
-Ted

[sda2]

I also just got my Bluebus delivered and it works like a charm

Now I have to install the E85 DSP that was in my mail today

Is there a pinout available for the ULF 6pin connection?

[nahvkolaj]

Did you actually remove the iPod module? It was typically installed behind the monitor in the dashboard. That could cause all sorts of conflicts with the BlueBus that would screw with the UI. Not using the button I pointed out will also result in the Ui timing out and going back to the main menu

Since you had an iPod module, the CD Changer audio input would’ve been removed, and that’s why you’re not getting audio. Look around for a white 12 pin connector, that needs to be connected into the left hand connector block of the quadlock radio connector. Should be a 30 minute excursion at worst

-Ted

That button is what I found to be the best way to get to the menu after I fiddled for a few minutes.

I did remove the iPod module almost a year ago.

Got in the trunk to take some pictures but then I found the white 12-pin disconnected and that long adapter harness in its place. Thankfully whoever did the previous owner’s install didn’t hack anything (my E53’s audio system harness is the definition of tech gore). Swapped the harnesses and now everything is working normally, it even seems stable now! Thank you!

The culprit:


But now I have audio and I even got some successful Siri voice interactions.


Now I can’t help but be intrigued by a DSP retrofit. I’ll be looking for E83s next time I go to a pick ‘n pull.

[t3ddftw]

I would start navigating the BB UI then it would disappear and take me back to the CD player or the main “Menu” screen of the Nav unit.

I’ll try to snap some pics of what’s in there in the morning before heading in to work.

The car had an old backup camera and an iPod adapter wired in which I removed when I got it. I don’t remember any hacked up wiring, just tons of adapter harnesses. There was ~3-wire cable with a blue connector run from the trunk up to the head unit that is now coiled up in the trunk.

Did you actually remove the iPod module? It was typically installed behind the monitor in the dashboard. That could cause all sorts of conflicts with the BlueBus that would screw with the UI. Not using the button I pointed out will also result in the Ui timing out and going back to the main menu

Since you had an iPod module, the CD Changer audio input would’ve been removed, and that’s why you’re not getting audio. Look around for a white 12 pin connector, that needs to be connected into the left hand connector block of the quadlock radio connector. Should be a 30 minute excursion at worst

-Ted

[nahvkolaj]

Luckily the run from the BlueBus to the radio when you have Navigation is ~24”. Can you post pictures of your radios quadlock? The radio is the silver unit on the left side of the trunk.

if you can describe how the UI was unstable, I can make like Steve Jobs and tell you that you’re holding it wrong 🤪. All kidding aside, the radio overlay button is the best way to access the UI. This is the button next to INFO on the E46.

Thanks!
-Ted

I would start navigating the BB UI then it would disappear and take me back to the CD player or the main “Menu” screen of the Nav unit.

I’ll try to snap some pics of what’s in there in the morning before heading in to work.

The car had an old backup camera and an iPod adapter wired in which I removed when I got it. I don’t remember any hacked up wiring, just tons of adapter harnesses. There was ~3-wire cable with a blue connector run from the trunk up to the head unit that is now coiled up in the trunk.