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  • nahvkolaj
    replied
    Originally posted by t3ddftw View Post

    Did you actually remove the iPod module? It was typically installed behind the monitor in the dashboard. That could cause all sorts of conflicts with the BlueBus that would screw with the UI. Not using the button I pointed out will also result in the Ui timing out and going back to the main menu

    Since you had an iPod module, the CD Changer audio input would’ve been removed, and that’s why you’re not getting audio. Look around for a white 12 pin connector, that needs to be connected into the left hand connector block of the quadlock radio connector. Should be a 30 minute excursion at worst

    -Ted
    That button is what I found to be the best way to get to the menu after I fiddled for a few minutes.

    I did remove the iPod module almost a year ago.

    Got in the trunk to take some pictures but then I found the white 12-pin disconnected and that long adapter harness in its place. Thankfully whoever did the previous owner’s install didn’t hack anything (my E53’s audio system harness is the definition of tech gore). Swapped the harnesses and now everything is working normally, it even seems stable now! Thank you!

    The culprit:


    But now I have audio and I even got some successful Siri voice interactions.


    Now I can’t help but be intrigued by a DSP retrofit. I’ll be looking for E83s next time I go to a pick ‘n pull.
    Last edited by nahvkolaj; 09-13-2022, 07:26 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • t3ddftw
    replied
    Originally posted by nahvkolaj View Post

    I would start navigating the BB UI then it would disappear and take me back to the CD player or the main “Menu” screen of the Nav unit.

    I’ll try to snap some pics of what’s in there in the morning before heading in to work.

    The car had an old backup camera and an iPod adapter wired in which I removed when I got it. I don’t remember any hacked up wiring, just tons of adapter harnesses. There was ~3-wire cable with a blue connector run from the trunk up to the head unit that is now coiled up in the trunk.
    Did you actually remove the iPod module? It was typically installed behind the monitor in the dashboard. That could cause all sorts of conflicts with the BlueBus that would screw with the UI. Not using the button I pointed out will also result in the Ui timing out and going back to the main menu

    Since you had an iPod module, the CD Changer audio input would’ve been removed, and that’s why you’re not getting audio. Look around for a white 12 pin connector, that needs to be connected into the left hand connector block of the quadlock radio connector. Should be a 30 minute excursion at worst

    -Ted

    Leave a comment:


  • nahvkolaj
    replied
    Originally posted by t3ddftw View Post

    Luckily the run from the BlueBus to the radio when you have Navigation is ~24”. Can you post pictures of your radios quadlock? The radio is the silver unit on the left side of the trunk.

    if you can describe how the UI was unstable, I can make like Steve Jobs and tell you that you’re holding it wrong 🤪. All kidding aside, the radio overlay button is the best way to access the UI. This is the button next to INFO on the E46.

    Thanks!
    -Ted
    I would start navigating the BB UI then it would disappear and take me back to the CD player or the main “Menu” screen of the Nav unit.

    I’ll try to snap some pics of what’s in there in the morning before heading in to work.

    The car had an old backup camera and an iPod adapter wired in which I removed when I got it. I don’t remember any hacked up wiring, just tons of adapter harnesses. There was ~3-wire cable with a blue connector run from the trunk up to the head unit that is now coiled up in the trunk.

    Leave a comment:


  • t3ddftw
    replied
    Originally posted by nahvkolaj View Post
    Just got mine today! I removed the CD changer and put the BlueBus in its place, excited to get it up and running. Assume the IBUS cable is the one adjacent to the analog audio cable.

    The BlueBus was very unstable, although I did get my phone to pair with it and saw the song I was playing displayed on the Nav unit screen. Seemed more stable when I flipped the phone adapter cable around. No audio. Comfort blink worked, and OBC temp display worked.

    I think this might be related to why my CD changer didn’t have sound. Thought it was the changer but maybe my harness is dorked up. Gonna have to wait till Friday to troubleshoot
    Luckily the run from the BlueBus to the radio when you have Navigation is ~24”. Can you post pictures of your radios quadlock? The radio is the silver unit on the left side of the trunk.

    if you can describe how the UI was unstable, I can make like Steve Jobs and tell you that you’re holding it wrong 🤪. All kidding aside, the radio overlay button is the best way to access the UI. This is the button next to INFO on the E46.

    Thanks!
    -Ted

    Leave a comment:


  • nahvkolaj
    replied
    Just got mine today! I removed the CD changer and put the BlueBus in its place, excited to get it up and running. Assume the IBUS cable is the one adjacent to the analog audio cable.

    The BlueBus was very unstable, although I did get my phone to pair with it and saw the song I was playing displayed on the Nav unit screen. Seemed more stable when I flipped the phone adapter cable around. No audio. Comfort blink worked, and OBC temp display worked.

    I think this might be related to why my CD changer didn’t have sound. Thought it was the changer but maybe my harness is dorked up. Gonna have to wait till Friday to troubleshoot

    Leave a comment:


  • t3ddftw
    replied
    Originally posted by CachacoE46 View Post
    Hi. Can you please share link to instructions on how to install?
    Here you go:
    A fully integrated Bluetooth module for your vintage BMW

    Leave a comment:


  • CachacoE46
    replied
    Hi. Can you please share link to instructions on how to install?

    Leave a comment:


  • Der_Spanier
    replied
    Originally posted by t3ddftw View Post

    "stable" is arguable with anything I do . I've had a couple folks test 1.2.2 on HW 1.x and it was fine, except for a potential issue with metadata display on the MID.

    Thanks!
    -Ted
    😂

    I’ll upload 1.2.2 tomorrow and we’ll see how it goes. I’ll be putting plenty of miles on the car over the next few weeks so if there are any issues, I’ll find them

    Leave a comment:


  • t3ddftw
    replied
    Originally posted by Der_Spanier View Post

    So SW 1.2.2 is the newest stable version for both HW versions?
    "stable" is arguable with anything I do . I've had a couple folks test 1.2.2 on HW 1.x and it was fine, except for a potential issue with metadata display on the MID.

    Thanks!
    -Ted

    Leave a comment:


  • Der_Spanier
    replied
    Originally posted by t3ddftw View Post

    It’s getting skipped. 1.2.2 should work on the 1.x

    EDIT: To add, 1.2.0 is where support for the HW 2.x boards was written in, and there was a massive refactor of the code base at that time to accomplish this. There's tons of little bugfixes to improve usability, but not much in the way of new features.
    So SW 1.2.2 is the newest stable version for both HW versions?

    Leave a comment:


  • t3ddftw
    replied
    Originally posted by Der_Spanier View Post
    On the subject of firmware: when do you estimate version 1.1.19 to become available?
    It’s getting skipped. 1.2.2 should work on the 1.x

    EDIT: To add, 1.2.0 is where support for the HW 2.x boards was written in, and there was a massive refactor of the code base at that time to accomplish this. There's tons of little bugfixes to improve usability, but not much in the way of new features.
    Last edited by t3ddftw; 09-03-2022, 06:41 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Der_Spanier
    replied
    Originally posted by t3ddftw View Post
    Here's the updated firmware revision where this is resolved: https://t3ddftw.s3.us-east-2.amazona...ebus_1_2_2.hex
    On the subject of firmware: when do you estimate version 1.1.19 to become available?

    Leave a comment:


  • Interlagos
    replied
    Originally posted by t3ddftw View Post

    Yes, unfortunately the first 150 made it out the door with a bug for non-Nav users that causes what you're experiencing.

    Hitting "2" to disable metadata is a quick fix, but the real fix is updating the firmware, which thankfully isn't too difficult.

    Here's a video guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X91typa7WYc
    Here's the written guide: https://github.com/tedsalmon/BlueBus...rmware-Upgrade

    Here's the updated firmware revision where this is resolved: https://t3ddftw.s3.us-east-2.amazona...ebus_1_2_2.hex

    Sorry!
    -Ted
    Thanks for the quick reply, Ted. No worries on the need to update, just glad it’s something simple because I was thinking I’d done something wrong installing (which seemed impossible considering it’s only two self explanatory cables to plug in lol).

    Leave a comment:


  • t3ddftw
    replied
    Originally posted by Interlagos View Post
    Received my BlueBus earlier this week and for whatever reason it will only stay connected to my iPhone 11 Pro for about 12 seconds tops. To get it to reconnect I have to shut the radio off and turn it back on, but it’ll only stay connected again for a few seconds.

    Anyone have any thoughts? I have a 2005 non-nav with factory HK.
    Yes, unfortunately the first 150 made it out the door with a bug for non-Nav users that causes what you're experiencing.

    Hitting "2" to disable metadata is a quick fix, but the real fix is updating the firmware, which thankfully isn't too difficult.

    Here's a video guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X91typa7WYc
    Here's the written guide: https://github.com/tedsalmon/BlueBus...rmware-Upgrade

    Here's the updated firmware revision where this is resolved: https://t3ddftw.s3.us-east-2.amazona...ebus_1_2_2.hex

    Sorry!
    -Ted

    Leave a comment:


  • Interlagos
    replied
    Received my BlueBus earlier this week and for whatever reason it will only stay connected to my iPhone 11 Pro for about 12 seconds tops. To get it to reconnect I have to shut the radio off and turn it back on, but it’ll only stay connected again for a few seconds. Pretty frustrating because it sounds great for the short time it works and it’s nice to not have to pull the AUX cord out every time.

    Anyone have any thoughts? I have a 2005 non-nav, business CD (no factory CD changer in the trunk) with factory HK.

    Leave a comment:

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