Originally posted by t3ddftw
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No real idea. I have a 1.3.3 build available if you want to email me, but there are a huge amount of features that are pending merge back into the mainline codebase. I just haven't found the time to clean the code up and test it all.
-Ted
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HI Ted t3ddftw, just wondering when you'll be releasing the next firmware version? Should be 1.3.3 if I'm not mistaken.
Many thanks!!
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Sorry for the lag getting back to you on this! Try 3dB, then go from there. You might need a tiny amount of gain to let callers hear you.
Thanks!
-Ted
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Hi t3ddftw Ted. Other callers say I sound "tinny," not that they hear themselves at setting 0. Just asking for a good default number suggestion. Mic is original OEM. Thanks.Last edited by BlueBimmers; 04-12-2023, 12:30 PM.
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Howdy!
0dB is the lowest on the HW 2.x BlueBus. I assume the other party is hearing themselves? If so, what mic gain is it set to now, and what are the last three digits of the microphone in use?
-Ted
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t3ddftw - quick question. The GitHub Wiki page says a good default setting for Mic Gain is -23. My Bluebus won't set that number any lower than 0. Can you advise? Thanks.
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Glad you were able to get it made, and thanks for documenting it!Originally posted by heinzboehmer View PostJust added the ground loop isolator to my car like Ted suggested. What a difference! Very happy with how it turned out. Thanks Ted!
Here's details on how I did it in case anyone wants to replicate: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...ge8#post210857
-Ted
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Just added the ground loop isolator to my car like Ted suggested. What a difference! Very happy with how it turned out. Thanks Ted!
Here's details on how I did it in case anyone wants to replicate: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...ge8#post210857
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Yeah, the isolator would very likely resolve your alternator whine.Originally posted by JeroenS View PostHi Ted,
I have the bluebus since day one and really loving it! Never thought the audio quality could be so good with my low-end (basic) stock radio!
I also have a pretty noticable alternator whine sound coming through the speakers, related to the rpm. When the radio is turned off, the sound is gone.
Can a ground loop isolator help reduces this issue? If so, can you share a wire diagram where to place the isolator? I have a MID radio, non DSP (unfortunately) and non amp.
Also, I missed the recall action for the early v1 batch, related to the handsfree calling? How serious is the issue, do I risk the bluebus will stop working?
Kind regards,
Jeroen
I don't have a diagram for how it incorporates, but it's pretty simple -- the goal is to wire this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0171PQLB8/ inline with the 6-pin audio output connector from the BlueBus to the car. I sell adapters for this which convert the 6-pin to 3.5mm and back, making it plug and play.
Yeah, your BlueBus could just stop working one day. You should really send it in, but you'll have to send it to the U.S. at this point. Shoot me an email, please!
Thanks!
-Ted
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Hi Ted,
I have the bluebus since day one and really loving it! Never thought the audio quality could be so good with my low-end (basic) stock radio!
I also have a pretty noticable alternator whine sound coming through the speakers, related to the rpm. When the radio is turned off, the sound is gone.
Can a ground loop isolator help reduces this issue? If so, can you share a wire diagram where to place the isolator? I have a MID radio, non DSP (unfortunately) and non amp.
Also, I missed the recall action for the early v1 batch, related to the handsfree calling? How serious is the issue, do I risk the bluebus will stop working?
Kind regards,
Jeroen
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Glad to hear it! You're super welcomeOriginally posted by WestBankM4 View Post
What a difference this makes, thank you my good man! Beautiful crimps by the way.

The issue above isn't exactly a problem with the BlueBus, rather the BlueBus is picking up noise from the electrical system and pumping it out. This only happens when the noise already exists (due to issues with the charging system). That being said, it doesn't happen to enough users to justify adding isolation to the audio output circuit. It's just easier (and cheaper for everyone) to fix it on a case by case basis.Originally posted by audipwr1 View PostAre the new kits corrected for the issues above? This sounds like an amazing product - exactly what i am looking for to use my iphone with all original OEM stuff.
Thanks!
-Ted
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Are the new kits corrected for the issues above? This sounds like an amazing product - exactly what i am looking for to use my iphone with all original OEM stuff.
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What a difference this makes, thank you my good man! Beautiful crimps by the way.Originally posted by t3ddftw View Post
Remove the cable that came with your isolator and toss it. Connect the 3.5mm ends from the two cables I sent to the isolator, then connect it inline with the 6-pin BlueBus audio connector.
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Remove the cable that came with your isolator and toss it. Connect the 3.5mm ends from the two cables I sent to the isolator, then connect it inline with the 6-pin BlueBus audio connector.Originally posted by WestBankM4 View PostHi Ted, I received the wire adapters and I've got my Ground Loop Isolator in tote.
Can you ELI5 what to do with these two wire adapters provided? My Isolator has a single 3.5mm jack coming off of it and a female 3.5mm jack input.
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