Broken Oil Pump Tensioner Help!

[heinzboehmer]

The head was bolted down (after the chain cover was installed to the block) and compressed the gasket between the head and the cover. So the compressed gasket will be destroyed when trying to remove the cover (sliding forward off the 2 dowel pins). The only way to avoid damaging the gasket is to remove the 2 dowel pins first before removing the cover bolts. If removing dowel pins is the method being used, then during install the cover back, it must be pushed up to compress the gasket, then install the 2 dowel pins, then the bolts. A messy work.

Yeah I understand that. And I'm not sure I recommend doing it without removing the head.

I'm just saying I managed to do it without any problems (for now). The head bolts to the timing chain cover too and when those bolts are removed, there was just enough room to remove and reinstall the timing chain cover without destroying the head gasket.

Not sure how you would remove the dowel pins before removing the cover. Drilling them out maybe?

[cobra]

I am just gonna spooge a bunch of silicone in there and hope it works.

On the bright side, there is an insane amount of oil and crud built up right around that joint, to the point where it almost looks like it was already leaking. Only other thing it could have been in this location is the vanos unit gasket which I replaced last time I had it off.

[heinzboehmer]

Oily mess could also be from the driver's side timing chain guide upper bolt. It's right behind the thermostat housing. Good time to make sure it hasn't come loose now that you have the housing off.

[sapote]

Not sure how you would remove the dowel pins before removing the cover. Drilling them out maybe?

I won't remove the cover with the head installed, but I had read that the dowel holes on the block are not blinded holes, and so just tap them rearward with a drift until they are out of the cover (but still in the block). Don't know how much room behind the dowels so they can be driven forward later.

[LatinSkllz]

How soon are you looking to do this?


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[cobra]

As soon as I get the parts in the mail 🙂

[LatinSkllz]

As soon as I get the parts in the mail 🙂

Did you already torque down the vibration dampener bolts? I found the bmw tool but it’s 90 bucks and I should get it by Friday.

Otherwise, there’s the same one for bmw motorcycles but on back order from Germany 6-8 weeks.

Link: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...r/83300493843/

If I get it and you haven’t done it, LMK if you want to use it.


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[cobra]

Did you already torque down the vibration dampener bolts? I found the bmw tool but it’s 90 bucks and I should get it by Friday.

Otherwise, there’s the same one for bmw motorcycles but on back order from Germany 6-8 weeks.

Link: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...r/83300493843/

If I get it and you haven’t done it, LMK if you want to use it.


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No I haven't torqued it. I'm not sure how that part even attaches to the vibration dampener? I was just going to stick the locking pin into the OIT holder and torque them down.

[LatinSkllz]

No I haven't torqued it. I'm not sure how that part even attaches to the vibration dampener? I was just going to stick the locking pin into the OIT holder and torque them down.

Be careful with the locking pin. It’s attached to aluminum abs bolts are not that long.

The tool bolts up to three holes for for the crank pulley and it will rest inside the A/C tensioner bracket. I get the tool Saturday and will take pics.

Your best bet without tool is to follow Heinzboomers suggestion, e brake and in gear.


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[bigjae46]

Probably going to need to step on the brakes.


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[cobra]

I removed the bolts by using the ebrake and a long wrench. The oit locking pin bracket is held on with 2 small screws but there are also dowels on each hole so I think it's quite strong. Guess we'll find out soon enough!

[bigjae46]

I removed the bolts by using the ebrake and a long wrench. The oit locking pin bracket is held on with 2 small screws but there are also dowels on each hole so I think it's quite strong. Guess we'll find out soon enough!

I’d rather have someone step on the brake so other stuff doesn’t take that force which is not designed to take. Maybe the OIT hole is but I wouldn’t trust that.


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[sapote]

Maybe the OIT hole is but I wouldn’t trust that.

I also don't trust the FW locking hole for this task.

[bigjae46]

I also don't trust the FW locking hole for this task.

Me neither. The last time I torqued the damper bolts was on an engine stand. I used 2 flywheel bolts with a pry bar wedged in to prevent it from turning.


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[cobra]

I got the timing cover off. That was really easy. A couple taps with a mallet and it just popped off. The head gasket is the typical viton-coated MLS gasket it looks like. I think I will be able to seal it up no problem with some carefully placed low-viscosity MotoSeal.

Couple more questions.

1. Should I try installing the cover first, then the seal, or install the seal into the cover first? To me it seems like installing the seal afterward would be easier than trying to wedge the cover in there, aligning both the dowels and the seal at the same time.

2. What makes installing the seal difficult? I have installed hundreds of seals and never had a problem damaging them. I just wrap a little electrical tape around the sharp metal edge, grease it up, and slide it on. Then I could tap it into the timing cover with a piece of tube?

By the way, here is my oil pump tensioner removed. Amazing how brittle this plastic is. I can't be the only person to have broken it while messing with the oil pump???