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Any updates on this? Have you bit the bullet and ordered these springs?
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All the parts are sitting in a box . Had to help out on two other car projects recently and put my stuff on hold. Should be able to get to it this weekend.
That linear ohlins 60n/mm spring looks heavy. I went with light weight H&R 60n/mm (343lb) 7.08" which is plenty of height at that rate. I would recommend swift in 65mm or hyperco/eibach 2.5" over the ohlins springs.
That linear ohlins 60n/mm spring looks heavy. I went with light weight H&R 60n/mm (343lb) 7.08" which is plenty of height at that rate. I would recommend swift in 65mm or hyperco/eibach 2.5" over the ohlins springs.
The shorter 7.1” spring will be slightly lighter than the longer 7.8” ohlins spring, but only by a few percent. The only real way to make a substantially lighter spring given a fixed mounting diameter is a material change like titanium. I wouldn’t sweat the weight, but the shorter spring might help tire clearance so I’d agree with the final recommendation since it appears that you can still get ride height to the right place. Might want to double check coil bind though.
‘02 332iT / 6 | ‘70 Jaguar XJ6 electric conversion
The shorter 7.1” spring will be slightly lighter than the longer 7.8” ohlins spring, but only by a few percent. The only real way to make a substantially lighter spring given a fixed mounting diameter is a material change like titanium. I wouldn't sweat the weight, but the shorter spring might help tire clearance so I'd agree with the final recommendation since it appears that you can still get ride height to the right place. Might want to double check coil bind though.
The length of the spring at the same rate is purely for tire clearance? Ohlins makes a 7.1 and a 7.8 in a 60n/mm? If im looking to keep the ohlins recommended front ride height with the beehive spring just wanted to lower the rate to a 60n/mm with a 2.5id spring should I go with a 7.8 spring? Weight isn't a factor. Tire clearance not being an issue.
At that rate I would not go to 7.8. You will struggle to lower the car. To put it in context I used 8in but at 250, and I could not lower the car bellow stock. At 300+ you will make the car sit high. You need to calculate your weight per corner and then you will know how much you will compress the spring and choose height from there.
At that rate I would not go to 7.8. You will struggle to lower the car. To put it in context I used 8in but at 250, and I could not lower the car bellow stock. At 300+ you will make the car sit high. You need to calculate your weight per corner and then you will know how much you will compress the spring and choose height from there.
Got it! So at 7.1 the bottom strut spacer is still needed right?
Bumping this thread as I'm looking to purchase the Ohlins RT setup through Barry at 3DM. My car will be 95% street driven on somewhat crappy Central VA roads. Typically run OE 19s (15 mm spaacers on the front) but have a set of OE square 18s I use on the track. Here's where I'm at:
Ohlins RT 3DM Trackday Option 1
Front Spring: 343 lb/in (lower based on discussions here at nam3forum)
Rear Spring: 400 lb/in
Vorshlag adjustable camber plates
3DM spacers
Urethane rear upper shock mounts
Ride height:
Front: 13.5 or a bit higher
Rear: 13 or a bit higher
Sways: stock for now
Do I need aftermarket sway end links to work w/ stock?
Bite the bullet and get an aftermarket front sway? GC? Turner? CSL? Hotchkis appears to be NLA
Should I use RE rear shock mounts?
I've read just about every thread here and reached out to a few members for their thoughts. Looking for any input before making the purchase. I'm looking to "set it and forget it" and enjoy the ride if at possibe.
400 in the rear? True coilover conversion? If not (if typical divorced setup) way too low, I'd run the stock ohlins 628lb spring or go up to like 650. I run 343/628 albeit on MCS, and I love it.
I'd also use rubber RSMS (RE or TCK) or spherical, but not poly if possible. For a track car, I'd use Vorshalg front plates, but for a street car, I hated the way it felt when I tried vorshlag spherical and went right back to TMS street and was happy again. It had a dead feeling and a little more NVH. You're already introducing some NVH with even the street plates from TMS and GC.
I believe ohlins are set up to use factory parts like the top mounts and end links. With a rate almost triple that of stock (143->343), I would wait on the bigger bar as it will likely just introduce understeer unless you're really moving, but since it's a street car, I'd wait and see how the front end responds - you want/need some roll esp if you're running skinny stock wheels/tires that already cause understeer.
400 in the rear? True coilover conversion? If not (if typical divorced setup) way too low, I'd run the stock ohlins 628lb spring or go up to like 650. I run 343/628 albeit on MCS, and I love it.
I'd also use rubber RSMS (RE or TCK) or spherical, but not poly if possible. For a track car, I'd use Vorshalg front plates, but for a street car, I hated the way it felt when I tried vorshlag spherical and went right back to TMS street and was happy again. It had a dead feeling and a little more NVH. You're already introducing some NVH with even the street plates from TMS and GC.
I believe ohlins are set up to use factory parts like the top mounts and end links. With a rate almost triple that of stock (143->343), I would wait on the bigger bar as it will likely just introduce understeer unless you're really moving, but since it's a street car, I'd wait and see how the front end responds - you want/need some roll esp if you're running skinny stock wheels/tires that already cause understeer.
Typed that wrong - going with the included 628 lb/in rear spring.
I currently have 20 year old GC camber plates so maybe these will be a step up.
Appreciate all the feedback.
Photos of the car at 13.5”F and 13.0”R (left side 1/16 to 1/8” higher to account for 160ish lb driver). Springs are 336 lb/in 8” Swift springs up front and stock Ohlins 628 lb/in springs in the rear. I may end up raising the car 1/4” on all four corners.
As far as ride quality and comfort goes, it feels much better than my old MCS 2WNR setup on the street with 600/700 and 400/700 springs. While it does handle larger road imperfections well, don’t expect it to feel like an SUV. It does feel a tad more firm than my other M3 with PSS10s, but that car has 550 lb/in rear springs and OE RTABs and FCABs. The silver car has TMS spherical RTABs and FCABs. One issue I have is that at parking lot speeds, the front end is clunky going over road imperfections. This was also present when I had the MCS setup, so I suspect the noise is coming from the FCABs, which I will probably replace with OEM.
SQ13 any updated feedback on this setup? considering going to this spring for my Ohlins RT with Vorshlag plates. How much preload do you have adjuster moved up?
SQ13 any updated feedback on this setup? considering going to this spring for my Ohlins RT with Vorshlag plates. How much preload do you have adjuster moved up?
Second this! Everyone tells me the 8 inch is too tall and won't be able to lower the car much.
Depends on rate, but I currently have an 8" 390'ish lb swift spring in the front(with vorshlags) and do not need the strut spacers, not even close.
My plan is to go with turner plates. I would rather go with a 8 inch 343 pound front spring and no spacer if that would work? Vs a 7 inch with a strut spacer and potentially have some spring bind. Am I wrong in my thinking?
SQ13 any updated feedback on this setup? considering going to this spring for my Ohlins RT with Vorshlag plates. How much preload do you have adjuster moved up?
Nope bc my car has been broken since March. It felt and handled fine before the collision, and my opinion on the setup hasn’t changed. I can take a photo of the adjuster next week. Running the 3DM strut spacer btw.
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