Ohlins R&T Spring/Sway Choice

[SQ13]

Really?? Even with the perch moved up near the top. I'm surprised.

Yup, even with perches at the very top. Same experience and ride height as mrgizmo04 above. I thought it might be related to the camber plate, but he used GC Street plates which I believe have a longer stack height than my Vorshlag plates.

[killa_e46]

Yes, spacers are necessary, otherwise your car will sit too low. A longer spring won’t help—your limiting factor here is the length of the strut.

If you have any interest in running a flat ride setup, you might as well go thru 3DM and spec custom spring rates at no extra charge. They also preassemble the kit, which saves you some time. They should be able to sell you the TrackDay kit with the Meyle RSMs and let you send in the GC camber plates…obviously in this case they’ll subtract the cost of the included Vorshlag camber plates from the kit. Also, if the Ohlins sale is still going on, he may be willing to price match the cost of the R&T kit.

I’m installing 8” 336 lb/in Swift springs this weekend and will follow up, since the 7” 336 lb/in springs have me sitting too low.

Would you be able to share pics of what the current setup looks like and then what it would look like with the 8in springs?

I'll talk to 3DM as well this week and see if I can send the parts to them since I already have the camber plates and rsm's in hand.

[LSB4Me]

I’m installing 8” 336 lb/in Swift springs this weekend and will follow up, since the 7” 336 lb/in springs have me sitting too low.

Looking forward to your thoughts on the 6kg swift springs as this is my intended path. Any intel, comments or feedback on ride feel / comfort would be much appreciated.

[LSB4Me]

Cross-posting this here as well. Update and important points of note regarding a more comfortable Ohlins setup for the street (I'm calling it the Strohlins Kit):

First, the front spring on the E9x Ohlins RT kit is 60 n/mm (approx. 342lb) and is the same shape, length, and design as the 70 n/mm front spring on the E46M3 RT kit. I am investigating as to whether the E9x spring can be swapped onto the E46M3 strut to achieve a lower front rate without requiring different sized, aftermarket springs (and camber plates).

Second, the upper spring perch on the F80 Ohlins RT kit is made to accommodate a 65mm spring. I am investigating as to whether the F80 perch can be mounted to the E46M3 stock upper strut mount to allow us to change to aftermarket spring sizes without necessitating the addition of camber plates.

I hope to have confirmation on both points this time next week and will revert.

[SQ13]

Photos of the car at 13.5”F and 13.0”R (left side 1/16 to 1/8” higher to account for 160ish lb driver). Springs are 336 lb/in 8” Swift springs up front and stock Ohlins 628 lb/in springs in the rear. I may end up raising the car 1/4” on all four corners.

As far as ride quality and comfort goes, it feels much better than my old MCS 2WNR setup on the street with 600/700 and 400/700 springs. While it does handle larger road imperfections well, don’t expect it to feel like an SUV. It does feel a tad more firm than my other M3 with PSS10s, but that car has 550 lb/in rear springs and OE RTABs and FCABs. The silver car has TMS spherical RTABs and FCABs. One issue I have is that at parking lot speeds, the front end is clunky going over road imperfections. This was also present when I had the MCS setup, so I suspect the noise is coming from the FCABs, which I will probably replace with OEM.

[LSB4Me]

Photos of the car at 13.5”F and 13.0”R (left side 1/16 to 1/8” higher to account for 160ish lb driver). Springs are 336 lb/in 8” Swift springs up front and stock Ohlins 628 lb/in springs in the rear. I may end up raising the car 1/4” on all four corners.

Car looks great and sounds like it rides great as well. Let us know your thoughts and what damper settings you experiment with (and end up liking best).

[LSB4Me]

Cross-posting this here as well. Update and important points of note regarding a more comfortable Ohlins setup for the street (I'm calling it the Strohlins Kit):

First, the front spring on the E9x Ohlins RT kit is 60 n/mm (approx. 342lb) and is the same shape, length, and design as the 70 n/mm front spring on the E46M3 RT kit. I am investigating as to whether the E9x spring can be swapped onto the E46M3 strut to achieve a lower front rate without requiring different sized, aftermarket springs (and camber plates).

Second, the upper spring perch on the F80 Ohlins RT kit is made to accommodate a 65mm spring. I am investigating as to whether the F80 perch can be mounted to the E46M3 stock upper strut mount to allow us to change to aftermarket spring sizes without necessitating the addition of camber plates.

I hope to have confirmation on both points this time next week and will revert.

Update on the Strohlins Kit. Barry confirmed that the E9x Ohlins front springs are a very close fit to the E46M3 Ohlins front damper. It seems like the rubber upper spring mount on the E46M3 stock strut mount will require a little trimming to get the spring seated properly. I have agreed to be the guinea pig. Bet my shop is going to love me for this.

Attached are two photos: (i) one depicting the slight interference of the rubber mount; and (ii) one without the rubber mount confirming the spring will fit once the rubber is trimmed away slightly/properly.

I will try to make time to run this to ground in the coming weeks and will revert. In the meantime, any thoughts, suggestions or ideas regarding the rubber mount are welcome and appreciated.

[Grke46m3]

How much movement is there without the rubber mount?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[ugaexploder]

Photos of the car at 13.5”F and 13.0”R (left side 1/16 to 1/8” higher to account for 160ish lb driver). Springs are 336 lb/in 8” Swift springs up front and stock Ohlins 628 lb/in springs in the rear. I may end up raising the car 1/4” on all four corners.

As far as ride quality and comfort goes, it feels much better than my old MCS 2WNR setup on the street with 600/700 and 400/700 springs. While it does handle larger road imperfections well, don’t expect it to feel like an SUV. It does feel a tad more firm than my other M3 with PSS10s, but that car has 550 lb/in rear springs and OE RTABs and FCABs. The silver car has TMS spherical RTABs and FCABs. One issue I have is that at parking lot speeds, the front end is clunky going over road imperfections. This was also present when I had the MCS setup, so I suspect the noise is coming from the FCABs, which I will probably replace with OEM.

curious, but if you had to do things over again. would you stick with the 8" swift swing at 336lb/in? or would you go to 392lb/in?

also, is the spring ID 65mm?

thanks for sharing

[SQ13]

curious, but if you had to do things over again. would you stick with the 8" swift swing at 336lb/in? or would you go to 392lb/in?

also, is the spring ID 65mm?

thanks for sharing

I wouldn’t change a thing. I like the current spring and sway setup. I did some spirited driving on a twisty road a couple of weeks ago, and the car handled great. Still no track time…maybe this winter after I reinforce the RACP and install CF roof.

Yes, 65mm.

[OldRanger]

For the subject of corner balancing with Ohlins R&T and removing preload from the front (only) sway bar: Is the adjustable end link on the rear bar required?

Im checking myself on my 3D thinking…because I haven’t found the value in an adjustable rear sway bar and end links unless I want stiffer rear. Which I don’t at this point.

[eacmen]

For the subject of corner balancing with Ohlins R&T and removing preload from the front (only) sway bar: Is the adjustable end link on the rear bar required?

Im checking myself on my 3D thinking…because I haven't found the value in an adjustable rear sway bar and end links unless I want stiffer rear. Which I don't at this point.

If you put the car on the ground and the stock rear end link goes into the bar without needing to bend the bar to make it fit then its fine.

However, I suspect that if you're running a coilover setup then you're probably not at the stock ride height? I doubt the stock endlink would slip in at anything other than stock ride height.

[OldRanger]

However, I suspect that if you're running a coilover setup then you're probably not at the stock ride height? I doubt the stock endlink would slip in at anything other than stock ride height.

My car is not stock ride height. Installing the stock rear sway bar does require a bit of finagling (removing the bracket). It also made a rear upper/outer ball joint replacement a PITA

eacmen - did you stick with the GC front sway? (It’s what RRT sells, and therefore recommends…and I like the ride height and performance on track with the way they setup my car)

My OEM front end links are toast. And one of them was banging around (loose) in the bracket on the strut/damper. So, I’m going to go in there and likely replace with the GC option. Just wondering if the rear is really needed.

[eacmen]

My car is not stock ride height. Installing the stock rear sway bar does require a bit of finagling (removing the bracket). It also made a rear upper/outer ball joint replacement a PITA

eacmen - did you stick with the GC front sway? (It's what RRT sells, and therefore recommends…and I like the ride height and performance on track with the way they setup my car)

My OEM front end links are toast. And one of them was banging around (loose) in the bracket on the strut/damper. So, I'm going to go in there and likely replace with the GC option. Just wondering if the rear is really needed.

If installing the rear sway requires any force to install the end links then you are adding preload to the sway which is what you dont want.

I still have the GC front and rear sway. Both are set at nearly full soft. The softest adjustment on the rear sway though won't work as it will end up hitting the axle at full compression. The front sway I think is their “race” product which is quite stiff even at the soft end of the bar.

I would recommend keeping the stock rear sway and just getting the adjustable end links.

If it is banging around in the strut then you need to tighten them up. But even if they are banging around it shouldnt affect performance. I've seen several race cars that just have a dowl and cotter pin to connect the sway bar end link to the strut for quick removal. It ends up clanking but it doesnt affect performance.

[Obioban]

For the subject of corner balancing with Ohlins R&T and removing preload from the front (only) sway bar: Is the adjustable end link on the rear bar required?

Im checking myself on my 3D thinking…because I haven’t found the value in an adjustable rear sway bar and end links unless I want stiffer rear. Which I don’t at this point.

The purpose in adjustable end links is to eliminated preload.