S54 running (slightly) rich

[bagger]

It's the brake booster jet pump supply air valve. At idle the intake vacuum is high enough so I think the valve should be closed, and at wider throttle with less vac in the intake then the valve should be opened to increase the booster vacuum.
"That first link was the car running idle for about 20 minutes. I think it got to hot idle as the car came up to temperature towards the end of those 20 minutes?"
It's better to drive it until it reached operating T, then log the data at idle for 3 minutes or so.
Btw, you should delete anything with Bank3 and Bank4 from the log. Need only STFT Bank1 and Bank2, LTFT Bank1 and Bank2, and delete the other fuel trims.

sapote - fresh file for your review! I let it warm up for a minute or two, drove it around and got it to temp, and then let it idle in the garage for a couple minutes after. LTFT seems to be a lot better. But not sure how you read the MAF graph and what values you're looking for there with a new MAF thrown in there.

https://datazap.me/u/jeffbagnall/logs/cmrlh189c000bl6068544j5vf?channels=8&sizes=100&axes=shared&sc=5-7

Thanks!

[sapote]

sapote - fresh file for your review! I let it warm up for a minute or two, drove it around and got it to temp, and then let it idle in the garage for a couple minutes after. LTFT seems to be a lot better. But not sure how you read the MAF graph and what values you're looking for there with a new MAF thrown in there.

Old LTFT are 9.3 and new LTFT are 5.5, great improvement. This shows either the old MAF is bad and under reported, or you accidentally fixed the vacuum leak while doing the work.
The new MAF = 0.615 and old MAF = ~6, so I am not so sure to say the old MAF is bad, but I think you have vacuum leak on the intake from MAF location to the head ports. A normal engine should have around 0.634 lbs/min for the MAF.
For the vacuum leak, I suggest you do the smoke test to find the leak sources.

Get a good smoke machine like this one which let you adjust the air pressure to correct level, as other machines have a fixed pressure which can be too high and damage the CCV and other plastic parts.

https://www.amazon.com/AutoLine-Pro-HyperSmokeTM-Automotive-Machine/dp/B0DNS49MKY/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1Q21UUI824JKG&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.x37lDuuV9dRtyG6YYdFvgPmKHHE98sF-8jZPmMSdgPskPZ4pkc9N5MYajl2FAvvtkADVG3HcvO7wgStQKhKakEFzgluxCSyj4BcOVcIjVQ1bBaTsoaaw3C4YRu0OXuYE4lQmtuqGlgNetgBCG0wlbqZGHc1B4DpFV71ueKIIYBcYXfP2KFhzHoorTQyDh2tigK6wDG-jwknSVNC5O4WVfFrRYkxmIHtEHpQnpvBYJmEyqKRs777HIQuFVJ1jMwobP440daRwzWtrYmm9eEPHAzjFwNLluXC_-q8uIczWQUs.mt-4yGXfb4OH82aupZla1j1ck0BEZvlE1W3eK65sJPI&dib_tag=se&keywords=car%2Bsmoke%2Bmachine&qid=1784147765&sprefix=car%2Bsmoke%2B%2Caps%2C237&sr=8-1&th=1

[bagger]

Old LTFT are 9.3 and new LTFT are 5.5, great improvement. This shows either the old MAF is bad and under reported, or you accidentally fixed the vacuum leak while doing the work.
The new MAF = 0.615 and old MAF = ~6, so I am not so sure to say the old MAF is bad, but I think you have vacuum leak on the intake from MAF location to the head ports. A normal engine should have around 0.634 lbs/min for the MAF.
For the vacuum leak, I suggest you do the smoke test to find the leak sources.

Get a good smoke machine like this one which let you adjust the air pressure to correct level, as other machines have a fixed pressure which can be too high and damage the CCV and other plastic parts.

https://www.amazon.com/AutoLine-Pro-HyperSmokeTM-Automotive-Machine/dp/B0DNS49MKY/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1Q21UUI824JKG&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.x37lDuuV9dRtyG6YYdFvgPmKHHE98sF-8jZPmMSdgPskPZ4pkc9N5MYajl2FAvvtkADVG3HcvO7wgStQKhKakEFzgluxCSyj4BcOVcIjVQ1bBaTsoaaw3C4YRu0OXuYE4lQmtuqGlgNetgBCG0wlbqZGHc1B4DpFV71ueKIIYBcYXfP2KFhzHoorTQyDh2tigK6wDG-jwknSVNC5O4WVfFrRYkxmIHtEHpQnpvBYJmEyqKRs777HIQuFVJ1jMwobP440daRwzWtrYmm9eEPHAzjFwNLluXC_-q8uIczWQUs.mt-4yGXfb4OH82aupZla1j1ck0BEZvlE1W3eK65sJPI&dib_tag=se&keywords=car%2Bsmoke%2Bmachine&qid=1784147765&sprefix=car%2Bsmoke%2B%2Caps%2C237&sr=8-1&th=1

Thanks! I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JVT1NG2...n_title_1&th=1

I did it once but did a crap job where my rubber glove over the intake boot met the smoke source. I'll make that a lot better and try again and report back.

[sapote]

Thanks! I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JVT1NG2...n_title_1&th=1

Yours should work although I don't see the spec about the output pressure. The seller didn't even list the unit has a P regulator and what the regulated pressure is. You need an air supply to work with this unit. My cheap unit has the built-in air pump but doens't have regulator so I use the rubber glove as a fuse and pressure monitor.

[bagger]

Yours should work although I don't see the spec about the output pressure. The seller didn't even list the unit has a P regulator and what the regulated pressure is. You need an air supply to work with this unit. My cheap unit has the built-in air pump but doens't have regulator so I use the rubber glove as a fuse and pressure monitor.

It does have a regulator - holds the air supply at 1 psi I believe. I bought a bunch of adapters, but none are big enough to cover the intake elbow opening. So that's what I'm using the rubber glove for.

[bagger]

Tried smoke testing again, but I can never get my smoke "nozzle" to not leak from the rubber glove. So there is always some smoke coming out of it that makes it annoying to try and track anything down. If anyone knows a good set of couplers / covers to cover the intake book and/or eventuri coupling (seems to be about a 3.5" diameter) -- I'd love to know!

Car seems overall happy, and feels less shuddery. I put the eventuri back on extremely carefully so maybe I got rid of whatever vacuum leak I might have had. The car is still slightly rumbly, and I noticed my trans mounts have a crack / tear in them so new ones on order to see if that's what I'm feeling.

LTFT still hanging out around 5-6 range.

[sapote]

Tried smoke testing again, but I can never get my smoke "nozzle" to not leak from the rubber glove. .

post pics of your State of the art rubber glove adapter? Do you cut part of the pinky finger from the glove to have a snug fit to the pump feeding hose then tie rubber bands over?

[bagger]

This was my first attempt. My second one ditched the cone and I wrapped the crap out of it with electric tape. Didn't snag a picture of it.

[sapote]

This was my first attempt. My second one ditched the cone and I wrapped the crap out of it with electric tape. Didn't snag a picture of it.

hose clamp on rubber glove over the cone is no good: cut into the glove and also slide off the cone.
on the straight hose with ditched cone, use rubber bands instead of e-tape for a better seal.