Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Just changed rod bearings

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #31
    Torque spec for the M11s is 5nm, 30nm, 70 degrees. If you torqued them anywhere near what you stated, they would be way overtorqued.

    Comment


      #32
      Was there elevated lead oil analysis before doing the rod bearings?

      Comment


        #33
        Originally posted by Jersey_M3 View Post
        I wish I knew because I’m quite meticulous about my car and torque specs. Especially because I take it to the track. Always better to be safe then sorry. Anyways. I really won’t know how I f#%{ed up until I get in there which will take a couple weekends. But I dove into my photo bank and have these. I used the regular torque sequence on the car since the car is a “2002” but was produced in 07 of 01. So don’t quote me on this because I did the job a year or two ago but it’s like 80 ft lbs plus 90 degrees. So in doing so, the 90 degree part is the ONLY place I think I could of messed up. I used an angle finder attached to the torque wrench. Maybe I went 1 degree off on one of the bearings and that’s what I’m seeing as it eats itself alive. Also I used a ton of bearing lube, forgot which one but it’s the one everyone recommends, the photos shows how I applied it. And I paint marked them up so I wouldn’t mix up the boltsClick image for larger version

Name:	E2606EBB-E364-4B5A-94B5-517246B1A2A8.png
Views:	468
Size:	100.2 KB
ID:	146155 Click image for larger version

Name:	9F6096EB-2111-4928-B053-7B12058EB4B3.png
Views:	468
Size:	223.9 KB
ID:	146146 Click image for larger version

Name:	BF999A61-FA43-4580-A576-795F0D614E46.jpeg
Views:	468
Size:	68.6 KB
ID:	146147 Click image for larger version

Name:	3428B7CA-8879-4531-96CC-D9D2EA696683.jpeg
Views:	453
Size:	59.2 KB
ID:	146148 Click image for larger version

Name:	8A77389F-5945-4534-A772-3C6BA8E4498C.jpeg
Views:	455
Size:	117.3 KB
ID:	146149 Click image for larger version

Name:	901E48A4-09BC-4EA7-81ED-87E41B4AE7B2.jpeg
Views:	454
Size:	113.3 KB
ID:	146151 Click image for larger version

Name:	650DF8D7-25C8-4762-A68A-52471B459215.jpeg
Views:	461
Size:	132.8 KB
ID:	146152 Click image for larger version

Name:	24465E9B-48A2-4581-89B2-65D6676348D5.jpeg
Views:	482
Size:	108.3 KB
ID:	146154
        That rod looks as though perhaps a bearing has spun in it before… has it?

        If so, the rod and/or crank may be damaged, in which case you’ll keep burning through bearings.

        2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
        2012 LMB/Black 128i
        2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan

        Comment


          #34
          Originally posted by Obioban View Post

          That rod looks as though perhaps a bearing has spun in it before… has it?

          If so, the rod and/or crank may be damaged, in which case you’ll keep burning through bearings.
          Was thinking the same but the bearings don’t look bad enough to have spun - unless a different set spun before.

          Comment


            #35
            Originally posted by Jersey_M3 View Post
            I used an angle finder attached to the torque wrench.
            Applying torque past the "click" of the wrench shouldn't do any damage to the tool, but next time I would use a breaker bar attached to the angle finder. If the torque wrench clicks when sweeping to the desired angle (say you bumped the handle and upped the set torque accidentally), the finder will display an angle that's no longer meaningful.

            This is how I torqued the bolts when I did mine:
            1. Thread in both bolts completely by hand
            2. Torque both to 5 nm
            3. Torque both to 30 nm
            4. Grab desired angle measuring device and turn both 70 deg
            2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

            2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

            Comment


              #36
              80 ftlb and then 90° sounds like way too much.

              I borrowed my friend's snap on torque wrench for my M11 bolts. Did the 30Nm + 70° and the digital wrench showed the final torque being 120-125Nm IIRC. If you did 80+90° that would put you in the ~200Nm final torque range...

              Even the 70° was a struggle for me lying on the floor lol

              Sent from my HD1905 using Tapatalk

              Comment


                #37
                Appreciate all the input but I was more trying to show that I used the simple torque technique not the one that was tighten, then loosen, then tighten again. Those numbers were just a shot in the dark after two years of doing the work.

                Comment


                  #38
                  Originally posted by dl.m3 View Post
                  80 ftlb and then 90° sounds like way too much.

                  I borrowed my friend's snap on torque wrench for my M11 bolts. Did the 30Nm + 70° and the digital wrench showed the final torque being 120-125Nm IIRC. If you did 80+90° that would put you in the ~200Nm final torque range...

                  Even the 70° was a struggle for me lying on the floor lol

                  Sent from my HD1905 using Tapatalk
                  Hey this is helpful since I will have this torque wrench for when I do this again.

                  I would agree. The angle from the floor was not the easiest to achieve. Had to find something to support my feet so I can pull it hard enough

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by Icecream View Post

                    Was thinking the same but the bearings don’t look bad enough to have spun - unless a different set spun before.
                    To my knowledge, these are the original bearings and there has never been a spin of a bearing. All the rods looked like that when I popped the bearing out. I’ll be sure to take way more photos next time

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Wait so you tightened it to 80 ft-lbs?

                      The specs call for like 22 ft lbs though ..

                      Comment


                        #41
                        It's pointless trying to guess, just redo it properly and be done with it.

                        I'm glad I have a shop well versed in these repairs.
                        2003.5 MT JB/B - CSL SCHRICK SUPERSPRINT EISENMANN JRZ SWIFT MILLWAY APR ENDLESS BBS/SSR DREXLER KMP SACHS RECARO AR SLON MKRS GSP DMG KARBONIUS CP AUTOSOLUTIONS KOYO

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Popped into my feed today. Seemed appropriate given the discussion around accuracy of torque wrenches.

                          tl;dr most are close to spec from the factory but if you want consistency in how accurate they are that is where you need to spend ~$100+

                          10 Wrenches Tested: Snap On, Wera, Craftsman, Kobalt, ICON, DeWalt SK Hand Tool, Proto Tools, Performance Tool, Lexivon, and a vintage Craftsman. Torque wren...

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Buy a used Snap on Techangle and get it calibrated. Chase down a snap on truck. They should have a tester on the truck.

                            It makes the job soooo much easier than using an angle finder or angle gauge.


                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Sorry to hijack. But for the pre 2003 cars with M11 bolts, how many times can they be reused?

                              What are the options after, say 3 or 4 rod bearing changes? Move to ARP M11s? Or are they still good, providing the right torque processes were always used?
                              Last edited by Arinb12; 01-05-2022, 06:41 PM.

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Originally posted by Arinb12 View Post
                                Sorry to hijack. But for the pre 2003 cars with M11 bolts, how many times can they be reused?

                                What are the options after, say 3 or 4 rod bearing changes? Move to ARP M11s? Or are they still good, providing the right torque processes were always used?
                                Thats a good question actually...I'd like to assume they're good if the correct torques were always used? But knowing me - i'd probably change them after the 2nd or 3rd service. But if you're changing your rod bearings 4 times that might be concerning in a different way lol

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X