Just changed rod bearings

[jbfrancis3]

Have you done this before. If so work you mind providing me a quick tutorial? I did not do this because it seemed like a waste of time to me. Anddddd here we are now lol

Yes on replacing rod bearings, no on plasti-gauge. If I were in your shoes, this would be the direction I would go. Its not common in the DIY world to have the bearings start eating themselves (hence not taking the plasti-gauge step). But in your case its time to start checking and eliminating variables. This assumes you do find the bearings are worn when you pull the caps, and there are no other obvious visual clues that suggest an installation error. And no amount of oil analysis will tell you the current condition of the bearings in this case.

Tutorials aplenty on youtube. HP Academy does nice work and I think you can watch one for free: https://www.hpacademy.com/previous-w...g-plastigauge/

Keep us posted!

[eacmen]

Second oil analysis come back?

How is your oil pressure?

[Jersey_M3]

Second oil analysis come back?

How is your oil pressure?

Hmmm havent looked at that yet. Is there any simple way to get that reading without installing fancy sensors under the intake or plenum

[Obioban]

What's a normal lead reading after a rod bearing change? I thought elevated lead was normal.

5 track events on an oil change? I've gone 4 and didn't feel good about it. I usually stick to 2-3 events. If oil temps went over 280, I change it.

Eh..

I do an oil change every spring. Most years I do 4-8 events. Oil temps pretty must always get to the 3/4 mark, every session (~255 deg). 16 years in, no issue :P

Castrol long ago said TWS was good for up to 300 deg.

[michaeljchn]

This is probably something you already know but a stab in the dark - the rod bolts have two different styles; each requiring their own specific torque procedure. Did you follow the right one?

[eacmen]

Hmmm havent looked at that yet. Is there any simple way to get that reading without installing fancy sensors under the intake or plenum

There is a bmw tool that bolts into the oil filter cap. Hard to find though.

You can find other oil filter caps with an NPT bung.

Improper rod bearing install can cause loss of oil pressure. Do you notice if the oil warning light comes on at low idle (after engine warms up)?

[Icecream]

There is a bmw tool that bolts into the oil filter cap. Hard to find though.

You can find other oil filter caps with an NPT bung.

Improper rod bearing install can cause loss of oil pressure. Do you notice if the oil warning light comes on at low idle (after engine warms up)?

Another thing to look at, when I spun a bearing (no knock but a very light tick at 3k), I was noticing my oil light stay on just fraction of second longer than it used too. It was so minor I brushed it off as paranoia but it was there. The red light should go out pretty much immedietly once the car fires.

[Jersey_M3]

Update all, oil interval was much smaller this time around but lead is still elevated. Turned out my bearing are eating themselves alive. Which is a bummer. Time to get a proper torque wrench and some plasti gauges. Reorder from FCP. And figure out what else I need. Thank god for the FCP warranty. I’ll keep up with this chat and repost how bad these bearings look when I change them out

[Jersey_M3]

There is a bmw tool that bolts into the oil filter cap. Hard to find though.

You can find other oil filter caps with an NPT bung.

Improper rod bearing install can cause loss of oil pressure. Do you notice if the oil warning light comes on at low idle (after engine warms up)?

When I first started the car after the install it stayed on for a couple seconds longer then usually but then cleared and never came back

[eacmen]

When I first started the car after the install it stayed on for a couple seconds longer then usually but then cleared and never came back

That’s normal first start after an oil change.

[michaeljchn]

im still curious how you messed up the torque-ing aspect of it? Was the Tekton wrench way out of spec?

[Icecream]

Sorry to see that but at least you caught it. I too am wondering how or where you messed up. What hardware is in there again?

[eacmen]

im still curious how you messed up the torque-ing aspect of it? Was the Tekton wrench way out of spec?

Wouldn’t jump to conclusions. OP may have done it right but some other faults caused the bearings to fail.

Any assembly lube or other products used when installing?

I assume you’re not running leaded fuel, right?

[Jersey_M3]

I wish I knew because I’m quite meticulous about my car and torque specs. Especially because I take it to the track. Always better to be safe then sorry. Anyways. I really won’t know how I f#%{ed up until I get in there which will take a couple weekends. But I dove into my photo bank and have these. I used the regular torque sequence on the car since the car is a “2002” but was produced in 07 of 01. So don’t quote me on this because I did the job a year or two ago but it’s like 80 ft lbs plus 90 degrees. So in doing so, the 90 degree part is the ONLY place I think I could of messed up. I used an angle finder attached to the torque wrench. Maybe I went 1 degree off on one of the bearings and that’s what I’m seeing as it eats itself alive. Also I used a ton of bearing lube, forgot which one but it’s the one everyone recommends, the photos shows how I applied it. And I paint marked them up so I wouldn’t mix up the bolts

[Icecream]

1 degree won’t cause an issue. 10 might... I’m assuming the crank was not damaged, none of the old bearings spun and you thoroughly cleaned and dried the bearing to cap surfaces? It’s just a delicate job, maybe some dirt got lodged behind the bearing, or maybe you just received a bad bearing. Whatever the case, stop driving it and good luck. Update with pics of bearings!