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Factory Rod Bolts Torqued Dry or Lubed?

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    #16
    Originally posted by enjoy_m3 View Post

    lol.
    The purpose of the steps is to ensure the rod cap is aligned with the rod as accurately as possible. These are forged broken rods. You want to the rod cap to clamp on the rod with as much even distribution as possible. Otherwise, risk spinning the bearing on first start-up.
    Agreed, this discussion was around the impact or otherwise of lubrication on the result of the torquing procedure.

    I think we all agree that the end goal is a reliable, even clamping force.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2005 ///M3 SMG Coupe Silbergrau Metallic/CSL bucket seats
    Build Thread:
    https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...e46-m3-journal

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      #17
      I've read to soak them in oil for 30 minutes. I believe it was Bentley or a copy of TIS that had been ported over to AllData at the time. This is was I did and it worked. I'm not sure why it said to soak the bolts in oil. Maybe someone can elaborate.
      This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
      https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

      "Do it right once or do it twice"

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        #18
        Originally posted by enjoy_m3 View Post

        lol.
        The purpose of the steps is to ensure the rod cap is aligned with the rod as accurately as possible. These are forged broken rods. You want to the rod cap to clamp on the rod with as much even distribution as possible. Otherwise, risk spinning the bearing on first start-up.
        I'm not sure about this. The initial torque is not unique to rod cap -- the head bolts also use the initial torque and then add with the angle turns.
        We don't rely on the initial torque to align the crack-cap, but by visual.

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          #19
          Wipe bolts with gasoline or brake parts cleaner, and lightly oil with motor oil just enough to make them shiny

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