Rod bearings

[Desert_M3]

I haven't read Bimmerfan08s DIY but all in all its not a crazy difficult job. The torque sequence is a massive pain in the ass though, especially for later year cars where its 105 degrees instead of 70. And keep the oil pan center cover off the oil pan when reinstalling or you'll never get it on. Completely dropping the front subframe will also make this job so much easier. If you dont drop the whole subframe, and opt to just let it hang, remove the FCAB bolts on both sides so you can swing the subframe front to back when you need to. Just take your time, and take the torque sequence very seriously.

[sumolbandit]

Can't access it.

Did you ever manage to get to it? I dont have issues with getting to it. If issues persist pm me your email and I can forward more directly.

[trudriv3r]

i like the sound of this. The engine on my car was replaced and when i asked the seller what year was the engine from he was not sure, as it was the owner before him. Will it just make sense to replace the connecting rod bolts? or is there another way to find out what year the engine is from, for torquing purposes mainly?

[sumolbandit]

i like the sound of this. The engine on my car was replaced and when i asked the seller what year was the engine from he was not sure, as it was the owner before him. Will it just make sense to replace the connecting rod bolts? or is there another way to find out what year the engine is from, for torquing purposes mainly?

I think the engine vin is under the headers. The head should also have a date stamp but i am not sure where.

Also, you use different bolts depending on the years (which correspond to different torques, see post # 25). If you cannot find a date, you could always worst case just buy the bolts for either scenario and return them if you reuse.

I would recommend reading through the entire DIY prior to buying parts or attempting obviously.

[lunardds]

Where are you ordering your Acl from? Prices are all over the place

[heinzboehmer]

Where are you ordering your Acl from? Prices are all over the place

I got mine from Lang Racing:

https://store.langracing.com/acl-rod...mw-e46-m3-s54/

[trudriv3r]

I think the engine vin is under the headers. The head should also have a date stamp but i am not sure where.

Also, you use different bolts depending on the years (which correspond to different torques, see post # 25). If you cannot find a date, you could always worst case just buy the bolts for either scenario and return them if you reuse.

I would recommend reading through the entire DIY prior to buying parts or attempting obviously.

I will check this out before hand. Not a daily so its okay to wait for the bolts if needed. thanks!

[DESMDR3]

Where are you ordering your Acl from? Prices are all over the place

I just ordered off Amazon. They are the standard ones 6B1569H-STD. Seem legit, ordered from 4wheelonline and it got dropshipped by Turn 14 distribution

ACL Race Rod Bearings Standard Size For BMW S54B32 (3.2L) M3 E46

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079G56GR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wq8JEbWAHTN36

[cudzich09]

I just ordered off Amazon. They are the standard ones 6B1569H-STD. Seem legit, ordered from 4wheelonline and it got dropshipped by Turn 14 distribution

ACL Race Rod Bearings Standard Size For BMW S54B32 (3.2L) M3 E46

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079G56GR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wq8JEbWAHTN36

Few more sources

$112 https://throtl.com/products/acl-race...acl6b1569h-std
$100 https://www.maperformance.com/produc...e-rod-bearings

[mrgizmo04]

Cheaper just to do these every valve adjustment instead of Blackstone analysis . Wow. I paid close to $500 for WPC ones when I was doing mine.

[Arith2]

I just ordered off Amazon. They are the standard ones 6B1569H-STD. Seem legit, ordered from 4wheelonline and it got dropshipped by Turn 14 distribution

ACL Race Rod Bearings Standard Size For BMW S54B32 (3.2L) M3 E46

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079G56GR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wq8JEbWAHTN36

Got the same ones. I went through Lang because Amazon is known to not verify counterfit crap. There are a few rip offs of these and ACL themselves actually addressed this. They are only manufactured in Australia so yours look to be legit. They have a good reputation in the domestic car audience from what I was reading.

[COVID-19]

I just ordered off Amazon. They are the standard ones 6B1569H-STD. Seem legit, ordered from 4wheelonline and it got dropshipped by Turn 14 distribution

ACL Race Rod Bearings Standard Size For BMW S54B32 (3.2L) M3 E46

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079G56GR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wq8JEbWAHTN36

I bought from him too. Talked to Hassan since he left a review and he said so far so good

[Arith2]

Well I'll justify my extra $60 spent on supporting a good business. That is a steal for those bearings.

[Inizes]

I spent some time the weekend and this morning comparing FCP Euro's kit vs Bimmerfan08's (Zach's) list from his DIY instructions.

FCP included an Oil Pan Center Cover (11137834885). This wasn't in Zach's and seems to be a bit of overkill, I don't see this needing to be replaced and seems like an easy $65 in revenue for FCP for those who don't look into it - thoughts?

Zach included power steering hose gasket rings - these are not included in FCP's kit, and the part numbers he provided show they are only compatible with e36 M3's, not e46. Do these need to be replaced or can we reuse what we have? If we need new, does someone have the part numbers by chance?

Zach included 4 front control arm bracket hex bolts, FCP did not. Consensus on replacing these? They are relatively cheap ($10.64) so not a huge deal.

Some other thoughts:

My M3 is sitting at 103.6k at the moment. Prior owner didn't seem to drive the car hard which I am appreciative of. I am also thinking of the "while I am in there, may as well replace" and this is the list that I have come up with as a maximum to do. Is there anything on here that would be considered overkill or unnecessary?

-Motor mounts and flange nuts (must, I have seen them while fetching a dropped crush washer during VANOS and they need to be done)
-Steering shaft coupler
-Control arms and tie rods (I have been going back and forth on this, these can add $$ to the job quickly, but at 100k its about time for a refresh, will pushing these off create a ton more work for me in the future?)
-Oil level sensor (based on comments above, don't need to fix this unless its failing. Easy replacement during routine oil change)
-All pulleys and belts, as I have no record of them being done. I have a small squeak when cold starting but quickly goes away, probably a pulley.
-Sway bar bushings
-Fan clutch (is there anyway to tell how much life is left? Living in the Midwest, I don't often see myself sitting in traffic in high ambient heat days anyways so I could remove it all together)
-Power steering components. I haven't decided on what what be done, can do more research if it is recommended.


I'm also leaning towards ACL Rod bearings from either Lang or MAPerformance. MAPerofrmance has a better deal at the moment, which is about $100 for a set. At that price I could replace my bearings 5x before breaking even with OEM at FCP.

[COVID-19]

I spent some time the weekend and this morning comparing FCP Euro's kit vs Bimmerfan08's (Zach's) list from his DIY instructions.

FCP included an Oil Pan Center Cover (11137834885). This wasn't in Zach's and seems to be a bit of overkill, I don't see this needing to be replaced and seems like an easy $65 in revenue for FCP for those who don't look into it - thoughts?

Zach included power steering hose gasket rings - these are not included in FCP's kit, and the part numbers he provided show they are only compatible with e36 M3's, not e46. Do these need to be replaced or can we reuse what we have? If we need new, does someone have the part numbers by chance?

Zach included 4 front control arm bracket hex bolts, FCP did not. Consensus on replacing these? They are relatively cheap ($10.64) so not a huge deal.

Some other thoughts:

My M3 is sitting at 103.6k at the moment. Prior owner didn't seem to drive the car hard which I am appreciative of. I am also thinking of the "while I am in there, may as well replace" and this is the list that I have come up with as a maximum to do. Is there anything on here that would be considered overkill or unnecessary?

-Motor mounts and flange nuts (must, I have seen them while fetching a dropped crush washer during VANOS and they need to be done)
-Steering shaft coupler
-Control arms and tie rods (I have been going back and forth on this, these can add $$ to the job quickly, but at 100k its about time for a refresh, will pushing these off create a ton more work for me in the future?)
-Oil level sensor (based on comments above, don't need to fix this unless its failing. Easy replacement during routine oil change)
-All pulleys and belts, as I have no record of them being done. I have a small squeak when cold starting but quickly goes away, probably a pulley.
-Sway bar bushings
-Fan clutch (is there anyway to tell how much life is left? Living in the Midwest, I don't often see myself sitting in traffic in high ambient heat days anyways so I could remove it all together)
-Power steering components. I haven't decided on what what be done, can do more research if it is recommended.


I'm also leaning towards ACL Rod bearings from either Lang or MAPerformance. MAPerofrmance has a better deal at the moment, which is about $100 for a set. At that price I could replace my bearings 5x before breaking even with OEM at FCP.

I just went with most of the stuff Zach used. The center pan - just get the gasket. Do get the power steering gasket rings-I believe there’s two copper washers and 2 that just look like washers - I don’t think they are specific to e46 m3s they are just generic but u can compare on realoem. Some of the bolts I just used thread lock so I didn’t them (like the fcab bolts). I would replace most suspension components specially since u will need an alignment. (Maybe hold of on the control arms) Power steering only if the pressure hose is leaking) it’s the one that makes like a U shape close to the sway bar. Do get the tool to separate the control arms from the knuckle so u don’t damage the boots with a pickle fork.