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    Quick Jack subframe repair

    I’m considering getting a set of quick jacks to do the rear subframe. Just curious if it’s possible to get the subframe out using the quick jacks. Or is there another direction I should look into

    #2
    Yep, many, including myself have done it. Plenty of room.
    3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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      #3
      I might be one of the few that didn’t like working with QJ. I prefer jack stand. Take less space and can access under car from anywhere. With QJ, it’s only front and rear cause side will be blocked.
      GT4 Composites

      2002 BMW E46 M3 TiAg 6mt Track car project
      2006 BMW E46 M3 Estoril blue 6mt Garage Queen
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        #4
        Originally posted by Gt4 View Post
        I might be one of the few that didn’t like working with QJ. I prefer jack stand. Take less space and can access under car from anywhere. With QJ, it’s only front and rear cause side will be blocked.
        Did you use jack stands for subframe. If so we’re taller ones needed


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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          #5
          Originally posted by jpiazzam3 View Post

          Did you use jack stands for subframe. If so we’re taller ones needed


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
          Yes I did used jack stands for subframe reinforcement more than once. Here is a pic doing it on my Interlagos blue M3 Dinan S3R and my Estoril blue M3:​
          GT4 Composites

          2002 BMW E46 M3 TiAg 6mt Track car project
          2006 BMW E46 M3 Estoril blue 6mt Garage Queen
          2024 Toyota Land Cruiser Black DD/Tow Truck

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            #6
            Jack stands for sure! Good ones too:

            Click image for larger version  Name:	studs03.jpg Views:	0 Size:	125.6 KB ID:	198787Can put skinny enough wheels under, too.
            DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
            /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
            More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

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              #7
              IMO, jack stands are the best if you're pulling out the entire rear end. Just have a long reach jack and two harbor freight furniture dollies for the wheel hubs.

              I tried do a subframe removal on a lift. I found it more tiring reaching over your head trying to balance the whole thing with pole jacks.

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                #8
                Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
                IMO, jack stands are the best if you're pulling out the entire rear end. Just have a long reach jack and two harbor freight furniture dollies for the wheel hubs.

                I tried do a subframe removal on a lift. I found it more tiring reaching over your head trying to balance the whole thing with pole jacks.
                Gotta lower it down onto something like this: https://ptrmachinery.com/shop/profes...carts-tp04001/

                I've dropped the front subframe with engine + trans out onto a pallet sitting on one of those. Literally just lifted the car off with the 2-post.
                '03.5 M3 SMG Coupe - Jet Black / Black

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                  #9
                  I did mine with my quick jacks

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
                    IMO, jack stands are the best if you're pulling out the entire rear end. Just have a long reach jack and two harbor freight furniture dollies for the wheel hubs.

                    I tried do a subframe removal on a lift. I found it more tiring reaching over your head trying to balance the whole thing with pole jacks.
                    Agree. Good idea with the furniture dollies!

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by tlow98 View Post

                      Agree. Good idea with the furniture dollies!
                      You can also consider buying 4 wheels dollies if you store your car during winter. I used mine to push my M3 as close as possible to my garage wall to get more space
                      GT4 Composites

                      2002 BMW E46 M3 TiAg 6mt Track car project
                      2006 BMW E46 M3 Estoril blue 6mt Garage Queen
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                        #12
                        Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
                        IMO, jack stands are the best if you're pulling out the entire rear end. Just have a long reach jack and two harbor freight furniture dollies for the wheel hubs.
                        That's how I've done mine too:

                        Click image for larger version

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                        Tip for others attempting this: don't rest the brake dust shields directly on the dollies unless you want to spend some time rebending them back into shape when you're done. Instead, stack a couple bits of scrap wood on the dollies and rest the hubs/camber arms on those.
                        2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

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                          #13
                          Click image for larger version

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ID:	198832 I used a 4 post with jack stands, my 4 post has a sliding center jack which helped, the best thing would be a 2 post and a hydraulic table etc. as mentioned.

                          A lift is cool just for the fact you can disassemble while standing of course but a 4 post really gets in the way of suspension related items so the jack stands fix that.

                          I guess I can't picture how a QJ gets in the way?

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                          2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
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                            #14
                            Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
                            I guess I can't picture how a QJ gets in the way?
                            It doesn't for a subframe/rear end drop, zero issues with quick jacks for this specific task. Others are mentioning jobs unrelated to subframe or just their personal preference. Dropped mine on three separate occasions. Only tip is to make sure you can access the big v-shaped reinforcement bar edge bolts before lifting which is just a matter of positioning the lift rails.
                            1. Disconnect parking brake (inside car)
                            2. Remove rear wheels
                            3. Remove rear shocks
                            4. Remove v-brace
                            5. Remove section 2 support brackets
                            6. Remove section 2
                            7. Remove driveshaft (diff, csb, and at guibo)
                            8. Pull parking brake cables out from underneath car.
                            9. Disconnect ABS and wear sensors (passenger side) on calipers
                            10. Remove calipers (retainer clip, 7mm bolts).
                            11. Disconnect lower control arm via eccentric bolt at wheel
                            12. Feed caliper between control arm and trailer arm and support with something (this is to avoid disconnecting brake lines)
                            13. Disconnect trailer arm from frame (RTAB housing)
                            14. Remove charcoal filter plastic cover.
                            15. Disconnect rear light leveling sensor that is connected to upper control arm on passenger side
                            16. Remove subframe cross member bolts
                            17. Remove subframe bushing bolts
                            18. Drop rear end.
                            https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...4563#post14563
                            Last edited by oceansize; 01-03-2023, 08:11 AM.
                            3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by r4dr View Post

                              Gotta lower it down onto something like this: https://ptrmachinery.com/shop/profes...carts-tp04001/

                              I've dropped the front subframe with engine + trans out onto a pallet sitting on one of those. Literally just lifted the car off with the 2-post.
                              I had access to a table and it definitely makes dropping an engine/transmission assembly simple. The problem is you still need to get underneath to undo the subframe bolts so the rear end will lower. That's why you can use a jack to the hold the subframe up and drop the subframe nuts and bolts. First, drop the wheel hubs onto the dollies.

                              Most all you don't have to find room to store the table.

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