Camber/Caster Plates - Pros and Cons?

[R1pilot]

I’m guessing you run the stock Ohlins springs up front? The lower part is 65 mm.

Thanks! Just ordered them and will report back whether the noise goes away or not. Its worth a shot before going to the Vorshlags.

[R1pilot]

Maybe the lack of a "stop" on the bottom spring perch to keep the spring from twisting is the cause of the noise.

Could be, did not think of that.

[R1pilot]

Assuming you have replaced the BMW bearing? If not, you should also replace the bushings in the street plates. $100 for both of those from GC. I think it's odd you'd have any noise, I have never heard a peep out of mine running V3's, which has the progressive spring and stock perch as well.

I have replaced every single part on the camber plates except the metal. Even the gold bushings, went from the ones that look like they have a countersink to ones that have a step. I bought all the parts from GC, should have bought the bearings from BMW as they were cheaper though.

[Bry5on]

What’s all that marring on the top of your shock shaft? Is that from contacting another piece of hardware? Looks like that could easily be a source of noise if that’s from a riding condition.

[cobra]

That is good info, often time I hear people say my car has been together for X years and its fine, then find out they only drive it 1k miles a year, lol.

I wonder if the stock springs helped or the strut brace acted like a reinforcement?


Here are pics of:
BMW reinforcement plate
Stock Non-M mount
Stock M3 mount
GC Camber plate
Vorshlag Camber plate
TMS Camber plate

Well no wonder these things are denting strut towers, look how small they are compared to stock!

[fattycharged]

Well no wonder these things are denting strut towers, look how small they are compared to stock!

Look at the photos I posted from underneath of the GC plate indentation into the reinforcement plate. GC says they design them at an angle and I'm not sure that is helpful for the towers...

[Bry5on]

Look at the photos I posted from underneath of the GC plate indentation into the reinforcement plate. GC says they design them at an angle and I'm not sure that is helpful for the towers...

Are you referring to some other thread somewhere? Two members posted photos of cracked towers from GC plates (couldn’t find yours, I may be doing something wrong on my phone) and they’re on both inner and outer sides of the towers. That might imply that the GC plates are not unevenly distributing load..

[George Hill]

Are you referring to some other thread somewhere? Two members posted photos of cracked towers from GC plates (couldn’t find yours, I may be doing something wrong on my phone) and they’re on both inner and outer sides of the towers. That might imply that the GC plates are not unevenly distributing load..

I don't see his post either... But I posted (2) strut towers that were cracked. One was a Vorshlag CP and the other was a stock Non-M strut mount.

To be clear I do not think this is a problem specific to ONE manufacturer that makes this style. I think it is when cars are driven hard or have increased spring rates on the front end WITHOUT reinforcement plates.

I think any of these with reinforcement plates are sufficient for 99% of the population. BUT I do also think you can get away without plates using the TMS CP as they are slightly larger in OD but the entire surface sits against the tower vs the others that is just a ring.

[SQ13]

The Cayman GT4 experienced strut tower failures when it first came out lol. We are not alone!

[Ramps]

Sorry for the late reply.

I have almost 100k miles on the camber plates. About 80k of those are with the factory struts/springs and the rest on Ohlins R&T.

I am running the factory strut bar on the car.

I’ve always wondered how accurate the ‘degrees’ markers are on the tops of these plates, have you had an alignment to confirm what they’re reading is actually what the camber is set to?

[fattycharged]

I don't see his post either... But I posted (2) strut towers that were cracked. One was a Vorshlag CP and the other was a stock Non-M strut mount.

To be clear I do not think this is a problem specific to ONE manufacturer that makes this style. I think it is when cars are driven hard or have increased spring rates on the front end WITHOUT reinforcement plates.

I think any of these with reinforcement plates are sufficient for 99% of the population. BUT I do also think you can get away without plates using the TMS CP as they are slightly larger in OD but the entire surface sits against the tower vs the others that is just a ring.

[R1pilot]

What’s all that marring on the top of your shock shaft? Is that from contacting another piece of hardware? Looks like that could easily be a source of noise if that’s from a riding condition.

Good catch! I *think* I looked at that and dismissed as og to the shock, but dont really remember. I just received the parts from 3dm and will install next weekend, will check that while I do so.

I am using the factory drop hats, so I doubt its rubbing, but will check. I bought the shocks new also, so I can rule out any preexisting damage on them.

[R1pilot]

I’ve always wondered how accurate the ‘degrees’ markers are on the tops of these plates, have you had an alignment to confirm what they’re reading is actually what the camber is set to?

Not very. If you look closely I have them marked for when I used to track the car and would move them.

[cobra]

Update -

I installed a new set of GC Race camber plates (with reinforcement plates just in case) and I can compare the driving experience. I went with race plates because it's the biggest change from stock in terms of stiffness.

-There is definitely a more direct feeling to the road, but I wouldn't consider it harshness. In fact, I like the way it feels now that the damping is so direct. It communicates what the tires are doing and feels very connected (in a good way!). On a bigger/sharper edged bump you feel more but again it's nothing crazy.
-The steering feels more precise.
-The whole system is completely silent with no rattles or squeaks (yet?)
-With the minimum camber setting, there's still more camber than stock, and I can barely run stock caster (because the mounting bolts hit. These plates are clearly designed for a very aggressive setup with 3-4 degrees of camber and are at the limit if trying to do a stock alignment.

One important thing is that the camber plate is over an inch shorter than stock, which means it's now running in a different section of travel and the bump/droop ratio has changed (more bump, less droop). I had to add a thick packer to prevent the wheel from hitting the fender on bottom-out.

Overall, I like them but a less adjustable variant is probably better for me personally, and maybe something that is only 1/2" shorter would be ideal for me at almost stock ride height.

[zzyzx85]

Update -

I installed a new set of GC Race camber plates (with reinforcement plates just in case) and I can compare the driving experience. I went with race plates because it's the biggest change from stock in terms of stiffness.

-There is definitely a more direct feeling to the road, but I wouldn't consider it harshness. In fact, I like the way it feels now that the damping is so direct. It communicates what the tires are doing and feels very connected (in a good way!). On a bigger/sharper edged bump you feel more but again it's nothing crazy.
-The steering feels more precise.
-The whole system is completely silent with no rattles or squeaks (yet?)
-With the minimum camber setting, there's still more camber than stock, and I can barely run stock caster (because the mounting bolts hit. These plates are clearly designed for a very aggressive setup with 3-4 degrees of camber and are at the limit if trying to do a stock alignment.

One important thing is that the camber plate is over an inch shorter than stock, which means it's now running in a different section of travel and the bump/droop ratio has changed (more bump, less droop). I had to add a thick packer to prevent the wheel from hitting the fender on bottom-out.

Overall, I like them but a less adjustable variant is probably better for me personally, and maybe something that is only 1/2" shorter would be ideal for me at almost stock ride height.

I ran with GC Race plates for a couple of years on my DD before I switched to the Street plates for ease of maintenance. I couldn't tell the difference in harshness between the two. I ended up switching to Street plates after the spherical bearing on the Race plates wore out and got all loose and noisy after the repeated bashing of CA roads for 2 years.