Post your alignment specs!

[props]

This was a topic on the old forum that I really enjoyed reading, especially now that I’m shopping around for coilovers.

So,
What are your alignment spec’s?
What’s your ride hight?
Any abnormal tire wear?
How does it handle on the street? On the track?

Cheers

[DESMDR3]

These are my current alignment specs. Got it aligned after installing my Fortune Auto 500s

[SteelGreyM]

I saved this straight from m3forum into my notepad:


CSL specs:

32 00 Wheel Alignment E46 / M3 CSL

Observe test conditions

Front axle:

Total toe 0° 4' ± 7'

Camber (difference between left/right max. 30') -1° 45' ± 20'

Track differential angle with 20° lock on inside wheel -1° 40' ± 30'

Caster(difference between left/right max. 30') With ± 10° wheel lock 7° 34' ± 30'

With ± 20° wheel lock 7° 48' ± 30'

Front wheel displacement 0° ± 10'

Maximum wheel lock

Inside wheel approx. ° 40.85

Outside wheel approx. ° 33.65



Rear axle:

Total toe 0° 4' ± 6'

Camber (difference between left/right max. 15') -1° 50' ± 15'

Geometrical axis deviation 0° ± 4'



Heres what I do on my car and I love it for a daily that I take on track.

-2.5 camber front

-1.5 camber rear

0" total toe front and 1/8" total toe rear

[Tbonem3]

Street car
I like a little toe out up front like 3/64"-1/8" though neutral is fine too, but no toe in.
-3 camber front, - 2 rear
3/64-1/8 toe in rear
Fun setup. Tire wear is of no concern, tires will get old before they get worn with only 1k annual miles.

[props]

I saved this straight from m3forum into my notepad:


CSL specs:

32 00 Wheel Alignment E46 / M3 CSL

Observe test conditions

Front axle:

Total toe 0° 4' ± 7'

Camber (difference between left/right max. 30') -1° 45' ± 20'

Track differential angle with 20° lock on inside wheel -1° 40' ± 30'

Caster(difference between left/right max. 30') With ± 10° wheel lock 7° 34' ± 30'

With ± 20° wheel lock 7° 48' ± 30'

Front wheel displacement 0° ± 10'

Maximum wheel lock

Inside wheel approx. ° 40.85

Outside wheel approx. ° 33.65



Rear axle:

Total toe 0° 4' ± 6'

Camber (difference between left/right max. 15') -1° 50' ± 15'

Geometrical axis deviation 0° ± 4'



Heres what I do on my car and I love it for a daily that I take on track.

-2.5 camber front

-1.5 camber rear

0" total toe front and 1/8" total toe rear

Might have to copy your alignment specs for my daily, any abnormal tire wear?

[D-O]

Yes, all measurements are in red, but my primary request was for even tire wear, and I got it. It has been two years and the wear has been very even and the car is quite neutral. Street only car. No complaints.

Eibach Pro Street-S Coilovers
Stock sway bars
Rac Monolite RG4 wheels
Continental Extreme Contact Sport (245/35R19 275/30R19)
Ride height 13.5" front 13" rear

[beefaroni]

I was going to post a new thread asking for input and criticisms on my alignment setup but I figured it would be best to post here.

Ground Control Race (sways, coilovers, camber plates)

525# Front / 650# Rear Eibach springs, 6” long springs, corner balanced but set to almost max. height. Koni adjustables (rebound only)

Alum rear subframe bushings, poly everything else.

Square setup 18 x 9.5 ET22 with Hankook RS-4

2.5 track days / 3 hours on track, 5,000 daily driven miles.

Impressions: The grip is just immense and the cornering is flat, I love it! This is all relative to what I have owned and driven before but I am pleased with the performance. There is some loss of steering directness and feel due to the alignment and square setup and while it is stable on the freeway, I’d like to reduce camber down to maybe 2.5 degrees up front and increase caster closer to stock (currently more negative caster than stock). I may also set toe just a tiny bit more toe-in.

Because I only do 1-2 track days a year and love daily driving it, I want to save the tires a bit. i have already flipped the tires because the camber wear was causing some tramlining.

The handling is very neutral with my driving style and approaching the limit you can feel just the slightest bit of safe understeer. I suspect driving style could change the severity of it, but it is very flat, and very predictable on track.

Ride quality is better than expected. I do avoid one particular railroad crossing but otherwise daily driving is good and fine with no scraping and only minimal rubbing on the fender liners near full lock on a driveway entrance, nothing remotely alarming.
The rear spring rates are a bit aggressive for the damping/valving on the Konis. The rear is underdamped and bounces a little on the freeway. This is my least favorite part about the entire setup and am considering dropping the spring rates ~50# each to help match the damping better.

[Feffman]

Ride Height (Measured at bottom of rocker)

Front: 4.5"
Rear: 4.75

Camber (CSL front spindles)

Front: -3.9
Rear: -2

Toe Settings

Front: 1/8" out
Rear: 1/8" in

These are recommendations from James Clay at Bimmerworld for my race car. No weird tire wear and the car handles really great on the track. Fair amount of other suspension changes as well to tie it all together.

Feff

[SteelGreyM]

Might have to copy your alignment specs for my daily, any abnormal tire wear?

Nope not really. If you never go to the track you can go to no toe in the back for less tire wear. Also less camber if you never track it. Trust me you won’t notice

[BlueBimmers]

Want to go a little more sport for street on next alignment. What are some opinions of the settings listed here? I'm on Fortune Auto coilovers: https://thebuildjournal.com/tech-gui...t-specs-guide/

[CybrSlydr]

Here are stats from my alignment yesterday and results from the dealers complimentary inspection.

Alignment guy said he thinks my drivers front control arm is slightly bent as he couldn't man handle it into position and barely got any change despite working it.

[Arith2]

It's strange people are talking about alignment specs in decimals and inches. The rule of thumb and the most accurate way to align a car is with minutes of a degree. 6 minutes of a degree is very capable of causing a pull.

For daily drivers, I would highly recommend staying under 2 degrees camber on both front and rear if wear is a concern. The rear toe should be slightly toed in otherwise the toe will end up negative while driving. This will cause understeer which is still bad for a daily. The inside of the tire will also wear faster counteracting the whole reason for a less aggressive set up.

[repoman89]

It's strange people are talking about alignment specs in decimals and inches. The rule of thumb and the most accurate way to align a car is with minutes of a degree. 6 minutes of a degree is very capable of causing a pull.

6 minutes is exactly equal to 0.1 degrees, and decimals and inches are both perfectly capable of representing arbitrary precision

[Thoglan]

Thats like saying metres are more accurate than feet.

[Casa de Mesa]

If you don't take into account what that 1/8 inch or 1.5mm or other non-angle unit of measure translates into degrees, then he's right. If you have 2 theoretical tires with different diameters - let's just say one with a 50" diameter and one with a 25" diameter - a measurement of "1/8 inch of toe" will translate into different angles.

But your point (repoman) is taken - the effects are relatively nominal within the dimensions we're talking about (a passenger car tire), which is why inches or millimeters are generally accepted as "just fine".

If you're a nerd and do this yourself, go here and the spreadsheet will calculate everything for you:

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...up-spreadsheet