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Advice on getting the front differential bolt torqued to spec on jack stands

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    #31
    Hmm, in my personal experience it has never backed out. I don't go to the track too often though. Can't see it being a problem on a road car if the driver has any mechanical sympathy. I did strip mine and thread repair it, without loctite, and it still hasn't come loose in the 15k miles since. I checked it once in that time and it was tight.

    Makes sense if you can't easily get to the thing with the subframe raising bushings. I only got TMS solids.

    My concern here is that the OP is having trouble torquing it down in the first place, his issue is not that it's coming loose.
    Last edited by 01SG; 09-23-2023, 09:12 AM.

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      #32
      Originally posted by oceansize View Post

      I ran into this a couple of weeks ago, I went to check torque and realized I can't get to the bolt with the CMP subframe bushings. Next time I drop the exhaust the nord-lock is going on.
      Yep, it was an unpleasant surprise after I installed my cmp bushings
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        #33
        Originally posted by E46m3zcp View Post
        What is your issue? I don't understand what you're saying. How can you use a floor jack to tighten a bolt?
        lol...I didn't explain it very well. I tried using the floor jack to leverage the torque wrench and the wrench wouldn't hold and that failed.

        Originally posted by 01SG View Post
        My concern here is that the OP is having trouble torquing it down in the first place, his issue is not that it's coming loose.
        That is correct. I was unable to torque to spec from the bottom of the car due to lack of leverage so the Nordlock is a safeguard.​

        Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
        I lie on my back with my face under the front bolt and knees under the muffler, so you get the orientation. I put the torque wrench on my jeans/right quad and do a "bridge". Makes it pretty easy.


        I will give this a shot. Thx!
        Last edited by Epsilon; 09-23-2023, 04:21 PM.

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