No Crank, No Start after rear interior work

[ejendow]

Hey guys looking to see if anyone has any suggestions for me. Today I had everything out of the rear interior: door panels, seats, shelf, etc. When I wrapped everything up and put the interior back together, the car no longer cranks or starts. I just get a single click.

I first assumed I messed with the fuel pump somehow since I had the bench out but this wasn’t the case since I was able to activate it using my schwaben tool.

Is there some wiring that runs to or lives in the rear that I potentially messed up?

[karter16]

Hey guys looking to see if anyone has any suggestions for me. Today I had everything out of the rear interior: door panels, seats, shelf, etc. When I wrapped everything up and put the interior back together, the car no longer cranks or starts. I just get a single click.

I first assumed I messed with the fuel pump somehow since I had the bench out but this wasn't the case since I was able to activate it using my schwaben tool.

Is there some wiring that runs to or lives in the rear that I potentially messed up?

Do you have sufficient charge in the battery? If you had everything out were the interior lights on draining the battery? Single click sounds like starter doesn't have enough juice to turn over.


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[ejendow]

Do you have sufficient charge in the battery? If you had everything out were the interior lights on draining the battery? Single click sounds like starter doesn't have enough juice to turn over.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I should. I also tried using a jumper box, but for now I'm gonna charge the battery overnight and try again in the morning.

[ejendow]

Charged the battery overnight, but this wasn't the issue unfortunately. Anyone have any ideas?

[ejendow]

update: checked voltage at the starter and there is 12V when not cranking. When I go to crank the car, the voltage drops to 0V. what would be causing this? voltage at the black wire terminal on the starter exists when cranking.

still stumped

[sapote]

update: checked voltage at the starter and there is 12V when not cranking. When I go to crank the car, the voltage drops to 0V. what would be causing this? voltage at the black wire terminal on the starter exists when cranking.

still stumped

Loose big cable.
Chech the voltage at fender post (and the battery cables) when crank

[eacmen]

Hey guys looking to see if anyone has any suggestions for me. Today I had everything out of the rear interior: door panels, seats, shelf, etc. When I wrapped everything up and put the interior back together, the car no longer cranks or starts. I just get a single click.

I first assumed I messed with the fuel pump somehow since I had the bench out but this wasn't the case since I was able to activate it using my schwaben tool.

Is there some wiring that runs to or lives in the rear that I potentially messed up?

What other work were you doing with all the interior bits removed?

[ejendow]

Loose big cable.
Chech the voltage at fender post (and the battery cables) when crank

voltage at the fender post and battery cables both remain at 12V when cranking. it's only at the starter where the voltage drops to 0V. When I put 12V directly to the starter when cranking, the car starts and idles fine.

[ejendow]

What other work were you doing with all the interior bits removed?

just swapping from grey to black. nothing with the wiring

[eacmen]

Might be an EWS issue. You have a bmw scanner or INPA? You should be able to log data and it will tell you the reason why it's not starting.

[ejendow]

Might be an EWS issue. You have a bmw scanner or INPA? You should be able to log data and it will tell you the reason why it's not starting.

are you referring to the “Starter blocked due to…”? if so those all say No so things look fine there

[eacmen]

are you referring to the “Starter blocked due to…”? if so those all say No so things look fine there

Hmmm interesting. Since you're hearing the solenoid click but no crank and by jumping voltage to the starter works fine I would then suspect a faulty solenoid. Try tapping lightly on the starter with a light hammer, and see if it fixes it.

[maw1124]

+1 for bad solenoid... you've ruled out seemingly everything else, except maybe crank position sensor. I'd look to throw a CPS at it first, since those are known to go without warning.

maw

[Fresh1179]

I had the same issue as you are describing about two years ago. For me, it was the crankshaft position sensor. I would note that the front subframe makes the hex bolt, which is located on the firewall side of the engine, extremely difficult to get to. Stubby ball hex keys were the only tool I had that allowed me to replace the sensor absent additional dissasembly on the underside of the vehicle. As others have indicated, your readings point to a solenoid issue, but the CPS is around $40(?) and may resolve your issue. Additionally, INPA provided information about the faulty CPS, so solenoid seems most likely. I wish you the best.

[eacmen]

I had the same issue as you are describing about two years ago. For me, it was the crankshaft position sensor. I would note that the front subframe makes the hex bolt, which is located on the firewall side of the engine, extremely difficult to get to. Stubby ball hex keys were the only tool I had that allowed me to replace the sensor absent additional dissasembly on the underside of the vehicle. As others have indicated, your readings point to a solenoid issue, but the CPS is around $40(?) and may resolve your issue. Additionally, INPA provided information about the faulty CPS, so solenoid seems most likely. I wish you the best.

CPS is right near the starter motor as well. So it's one of those “while you're there” items that makes a lot of sense.