MOOG monoball RTAB bushes -are they a good choice?

[911Fiddler]

Am planning to put monoball RTABs in my M3, so have looked at the mainstream options,

But then I spotted the NAM3 posting about MOOG bushings here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...2572#post12572

They look perfectly adequate (industry std ball joint tech) at a low price. A little creative fitting is required, however all has been resolved so looks pretty doable, in this post https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showth...1227852&page=2

Altough the posting states that the bush fits the M3 control arm (press in with tool), concern is that it wont be right, eg not tight enough or too slack.

Has anybody done this & able to comment further, inc how they stand up to useage?

MOOG sales blurb is here: https://drivcat.com/livedocs/Control...MG131209-R.pdf

[Obioban]

I don't know anything about the quality of MOOG's bearings. Certainly seems like a much cheaper way to do monoball RTABs IF they're a well made product.

[Tbonem3]

Moog is legit, the goofy name notwithstanding.

[liam821]

I don't know anything about the quality of MOOG's bearings. Certainly seems like a much cheaper way to do monoball RTABs IF they're a well made product.

It seems like a pretty economical way to get monoball RTABs, scary about drill the trailing arm bracket for a 14mm hole though - once you do this mod you can never roll with a stock sized RTAB ever again without replacing the bracket.

[Tbonem3]

I think I'd machine a sleeve to reuse the stock bolt instead, in that case. Unless the brackets are cheap, they may well be. Probably a bunch on ebay from part outs.

actually, that's what one of the guys on e46fan did it sounds like:
"I did this swap today and found some different specs...

Moog OD = 3.376”
M3 trailing arm ID = 3.360”

16 thousandths sounded like too much for interference fit so I turned down the Moog parts for a nice press fit. While I had the lathe plugged in I made a pair of 12-14mm bushings to enable retaining the stock 12mm bolt."

[terra]

The brackets are fairly cheap. $26 each on ECS.

[911Fiddler]

It seems like a pretty economical way to get monoball RTABs, scary about drill the trailing arm bracket for a 14mm hole though - once you do this mod you can never roll with a stock sized RTAB ever again without replacing the bracket.

Sure, but no big deal...

[911Fiddler]

I think I'd machine a sleeve to reuse the stock bolt instead, in that case. Unless the brackets are cheap, they may well be. Probably a bunch on ebay from part outs.

actually, that's what one of the guys on e46fan did it sounds like:
"I did this swap today and found some different specs...

Moog OD = 3.376”
M3 trailing arm ID = 3.360”

16 thousandths sounded like too much for interference fit so I turned down the Moog parts for a nice press fit. While I had the lathe plugged in I made a pair of 12-14mm bushings to enable retaining the stock 12mm bolt."

Agree 16 thou, way too much. Ill bear in mind that I need to measure the bore, measure the bush and probably head off to my machine shop for a skim. So probable a little time off the road.
Will aim at 1.0-1.5 thou clearance, that should do it. If it turn out a little slack Ill centre punch the bush OD and locktite it.

[liam821]

The brackets are fairly cheap. $26 each on ECS.

That's much cheaper than I thought they would be.

[heinzboehmer]

Are people that run monoball RTABs reinforcing their RTAB pockets? I know this isn't a widespread issue like it is on E36s, but having the RTAs solidly mounted with these bushings makes me think that some reinforcement might be necessary.

[Obioban]

Are people that run monoball RTABs reinforcing their RTAB pockets? I know this isn't a widespread issue like it is on E36s, but having the RTAs solidly mounted with these bushings makes me think that some reinforcement might be necessary.

Monoball RTABs should decrease the torque applied to the RTABs pocket-- especially compared to poly.

[Tbonem3]

If I were tearing apart my rear end for RACP drilling/welding anyway, ya I would double check the pockets and fender areas.

[ethan]

Agree 16 thou, way too much. Ill bear in mind that I need to measure the bore, measure the bush and probably head off to my machine shop for a skim. So probable a little time off the road.
Will aim at 1.0-1.5 thou clearance, that should do it. If it turn out a little slack Ill centre punch the bush OD and locktite it.

I've had a pair in my E46 330xi but only for a few thousand miles so can't comment on the longevity of the Moog joint itself. I used 14mm hardware with overbored brackets. The OD of the joints was definitely ever so slightly too large, but they also have a relatively rough surface finish - not the machined finish you get on, for example, the Lemforder balljoints used in the other LCA locations. I just sanded them on a belt sander to get a better finish and slammed 'em in, but you should have a machine shop turn them. Someone with a lathe could make pretty cheap kits with pre-turned Moogs and spacers...

[lcrain]

I have a few MOOG bits on my c5 z06. They make nice replacement sway bar endlinks and front tie rod ends. Grease-able too. Pretty well regarded in the corvette world, from what I can tell. I have no complaints. Way better than the worn out OEM crap they replaced.