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    #16
    I just completed a FULL CMP kit on my E46 M. Front RACP, rear RACP, and underside with the bolt-in support that sits flush behind the rear seat. It was a LOT of work and a lot of very careful welding. If you aren't well-versed or know somebody that is, I would maybe avoid the CMP kit. I personally love it, but I own a group of shops here in Ohio, so I wasn't worried about all the welding because I have an amazing guy at one of my shops. I can post pictures if you need help.

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      #17
      Originally posted by DMW_Evan View Post
      I just completed a FULL CMP kit on my E46 M. Front RACP, rear RACP, and underside with the bolt-in support that sits flush behind the rear seat. It was a LOT of work and a lot of very careful welding. If you aren't well-versed or know somebody that is, I would maybe avoid the CMP kit. I personally love it, but I own a group of shops here in Ohio, so I wasn't worried about all the welding because I have an amazing guy at one of my shops. I can post pictures if you need help.
      Yes, please. I'd love to see the photos of your install. I recently purchased the front and rear CMP topside kit, and was surprised everything came as individual pieces to be welded together to make the beam. It's a lot of welding, as you mentioned.

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        #18
        Standby, I just posted a new thread about it.

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          #19
          Hey all- Quick backstory, I've been off forums for a very long time, which is why my username says I haven't done anything here- I had to create a new username and all. That being said, last year I decided to get a whole bunch of money out of the market and put it back into physical assets, so I started the M-Folio. An M-car


          Take a look at some of these. It's absolutely worth it and if you need help, I'm happy to tell you how we did it.

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            #20
            Originally posted by DMW_Evan View Post
            I just completed a FULL CMP kit on my E46 M. Front RACP, rear RACP, and underside with the bolt-in support that sits flush behind the rear seat. It was a LOT of work and a lot of very careful welding. If you aren't well-versed or know somebody that is, I would maybe avoid the CMP kit. I personally love it, but I own a group of shops here in Ohio, so I wasn't worried about all the welding because I have an amazing guy at one of my shops. I can post pictures if you need help.
            Please share

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              #21
              I'm sorry some of these are sideways- they were taken for reference, not necessarily to post.
              Rear RACP Reinforcement:
              Trimming trunk skin behind spare tire well.
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              Rear bar with frame rail attachments- the rail plates get welded on to the bar reinforcement.
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              Complete the structure with top bar. This then gets spot welded (all the holes are spot welds). When you're done spot welding, you'll stitch weld the perimeter.
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              Cover it back up with the panel you cut, stitch it back together, seam seal, and paint.

              Front is a lot harder.
              Seats out, heat gun and scrape the sound deadening where needed. Mock up the kit, paint pen or Sharpie the shape, grind away material to bare metal. VERY CAREFULLY cut the skin so that you have columns cut out (purple paint pen below). Weld in the reinforcements inside the gussets, then put the structure down for a similar process to the rear RACP- spot weld, tack weld, stitch together.

              Click image for larger version

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              Structure in place and welded, seam sealed, primed. It was later painted Alpine white.
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              Bolt-in flush-mount roll bar is an option here. There's also K-braces for the trunk, etc.
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              The underside reinforcement is pretty self explanatory, but here is it finished. Happy to help if you order the kit and need any help.

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              Attached Files

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                #22
                Don’t forget to weld the driver rear wheel well arch!

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                  #23
                  Bumping an old thread but I’m curious..

                  I did the front and rear upper CMP braces, welded
                  in. I welded up and repaired two small cracks on the driver seatbelt bolt hole and one where one of the front plate parts gets installed (driver side area you cut open). No other issues found up top.

                  I don’t track my car and it has TCK S/As on it. Should I be in a rush to do the bottom plates? I have them but scheduling time to borrow a lift and do them is a bit of scheduling to figure out.
                  2003.5 Mystic/Blk - El Diablo, Coilovers, CMP Reinforcement, 2x OE Res. Section 1. - The new project
                  '95 M3 - 800whp, 2jz, 6-speed, MS3x, Tilton, Large Case, etc.. - gone.
                  '11 X5d - Potholed, Tuned daily rig

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Mystic03 View Post
                    Bumping an old thread but I’m curious..

                    I did the front and rear upper CMP braces, welded
                    in. I welded up and repaired two small cracks on the driver seatbelt bolt hole and one where one of the front plate parts gets installed (driver side area you cut open). No other issues found up top.

                    I don’t track my car and it has TCK S/As on it. Should I be in a rush to do the bottom plates? I have them but scheduling time to borrow a lift and do them is a bit of scheduling to figure out.
                    As long as you’re keeping your suspension fresh, and bushings you should be fine. If you track the car get it welded, but won’t hurt when you have time otherwise.

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                      #25
                      Suspension is in good shape. Diff and diff bushings are getting done in the coming weeks, I also have solid bushings to go into the subframe when I drop it.
                      2003.5 Mystic/Blk - El Diablo, Coilovers, CMP Reinforcement, 2x OE Res. Section 1. - The new project
                      '95 M3 - 800whp, 2jz, 6-speed, MS3x, Tilton, Large Case, etc.. - gone.
                      '11 X5d - Potholed, Tuned daily rig

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by Mystic03 View Post
                        Suspension is in good shape. Diff and diff bushings are getting done in the coming weeks, I also have solid bushings to go into the subframe when I drop it.
                        You might want to do it then!

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                          #27
                          Honestly, I can drop it in my
                          garage on stands and do the diff and bushings, but I’m not doing the welding and repair on my back..that’s my
                          issue.
                          2003.5 Mystic/Blk - El Diablo, Coilovers, CMP Reinforcement, 2x OE Res. Section 1. - The new project
                          '95 M3 - 800whp, 2jz, 6-speed, MS3x, Tilton, Large Case, etc.. - gone.
                          '11 X5d - Potholed, Tuned daily rig

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by Mystic03 View Post
                            Honestly, I can drop it in my
                            garage on stands and do the diff and bushings, but I’m not doing the welding and repair on my back..that’s my
                            issue.
                            Welding while laying down wasn't fun. Never had to weld overhead but probably a lot less hot splatter getting on you.

                            You'll be fine waiting to do the bottom as long as you're not putting thousands of miles on it.

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by Mystic03 View Post
                              Suspension is in good shape. Diff and diff bushings are getting done in the coming weeks, I also have solid bushings to go into the subframe when I drop it.
                              you should be fine then till you get around to it. Should add that as long as you’re going rubber bushings. The solid mounts are good because for carrier rubber else wear best.

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