Remote Damper Reservoir Mounting

[Gt4]

Installed like this in one of my previous build

[CrookedCommie]

Got any pics from the wheel well?

[Gt4]

Got any pics from the wheel well?

No, built that car in 2019-2020.

Depending where you mount the reservoir, you can route the hoses exactly at same spot where the rigid brake lines goes through the rubber grommets.

Or if you mount reservoirs closer to rad support, hoses can pass from wheel wells to engine bay where chassis/sheet metal ends and hose next to intake tube and windshield washer reservoir neck

[eacmen]

When mounting on the exhaust side may want to consider a heat shield of some sort. Whole purpose of the external reservoir is for more fluid capacity to improve the thermal capacity of fluid in the damper.

[fattycharged]

Can anyone share how they routed the front lines through the wheel wheel and fender to keep everything out of the way and secure? I'm thinking about putting the canisters on the front of the radiator support, should be able to reach with the hood open to turn the knob.

I did the same, but it's honestly not all that convenient and somewhat difficult to reach the adjusters. Though I does look pretty slick with them peaking out


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[CrookedCommie]

Some pics for reference. Yes I did mount the fronts behind the kevlar support, it's a DE car - if the impact pushes them into the radiator support it's the least of my problems. The moton hoses don't reach as far as some of the other remote cans do, mounting them to the headlights is the other option but I didn't want to fabricate mounts and remove the airbox feeding from the grill. Easy to reach in and change the compression, as well as get the chuck on to air them up. All of the wheel well liners fit over the lines.

[Bebop]

When mounting on the exhaust side may want to consider a heat shield of some sort. Whole purpose of the external reservoir is for more fluid capacity to improve the thermal capacity of fluid in the damper.

I know a lot of people (including manufacturers) are talking about the thermal benefits of a remote reservoir shock, but the big advantage is the increased chamber volume for the nitrogen charge. This higher volume leads to a softer, less harsh transition in compression and a more predictive rebound.
If you think about it, the cooling effect from the reservoir can only come from the volume of fluid circulating back and forth between the shock body and the reservoir itself. This is determined by the volume of the shaft moving in and out of the shock body. On a road car, where shafts are 5/8 in diameter (give or take manufacturer variations), and travel numbers are very limited (maybe 1 to 2" max), you aren't actually displacing a lot of volume to do the cooling.
I can dive way deeper into this, but I'm not trying to appear all condescending. I just play with big shocks.

[cobra]

I know a lot of people (including manufacturers) are talking about the thermal benefits of a remote reservoir shock, but the big advantage is the increased chamber volume for the nitrogen charge. This higher volume leads to a softer, less harsh transition in compression and a more predictive rebound.
If you think about it, the cooling effect from the reservoir can only come from the volume of fluid circulating back and forth between the shock body and the reservoir itself. This is determined by the volume of the shaft moving in and out of the shock body. On a road car, where shafts are 5/8 in diameter (give or take manufacturer variations), and travel numbers are very limited (maybe 1 to 2" max), you aren't actually displacing a lot of volume to do the cooling.
I can dive way deeper into this, but I'm not trying to appear all condescending. I just play with big shocks.

100% right about the thermal benefits and the relatively small amount of oil oscillating back and forth. Heck, in those Moton/JRZ's with long hoses I bet there's little if any oil transfer between the reservoir and body.

That said, the main reason is to house the base valve so that the reservoir pressure can be reduced, the shock can be tuned more ideally, have more compression force generation capability, with the added benefit of external adjustment. While it's true that the reservoir adds chamber volume which makes packaging easier, there are plenty of inline-IFP shocks that can be packaged and operate within a normal pressure range on this car.

The ultimate form of shock cooling would be a recirculating type that uses check valves to pump oil through a finned reservoir and back into the body (as seen on desert racing rigs). I don't think it's ever a concern for a street car. JRZ advises to not place a resi right next to an exhaust pipe because they're using Buna o-rings which are susceptible to degradation over 210F or so.

[CrookedCommie]

My assumption was that adding a remote canister lets you add nitrogen which stops the oil from aerating. While it may not be necessary to keep them completely out of heat, re: mounting on strut bar, I agree that cooking things like the seals isn't a good idea.

[Bebop]

That said, the main reason is to house the base valve so that the reservoir pressure can be reduced, the shock can be tuned more ideally, have more compression force generation capability, with the added benefit of external adjustment. While it's true that the reservoir adds chamber volume which makes packaging easier, there are plenty of inline-IFP shocks that can be packaged and operate within a normal pressure range on this car.

I guess I'm used to non valved resis, but that makes sense.
We go as far as up sizing the lines between chamber and resi in order to remove as much restriction as possible. Definitely a different approach on the desert/offroad shit.

[DJM]

Off topic, CrookedCommie one of your pics show you did an EVAP delete. I see the vent hose from the "slosh canister" heading to the rear of vehicle. Where does it end? Why not in the wheel well where the OEM one does? Is that a one inch hose? Looks bigger than OEM vent. And of course you have a filter on the termination.

[CrookedCommie]

Off topic, CrookedCommie one of your pics show you did an EVAP delete. I see the vent hose from the "slosh canister" heading to the rear of vehicle. Where does it end? Why not in the wheel well where the OEM one does? Is that a one inch hose? Looks bigger than OEM vent. And of course you have a filter on the termination.

I got the size of hose that will fit the OEM expansion tank fitting, I can't remember what size ID maybe 5/8"? It does terminate with a filter I grabbed off pegasus racing to vent to atmosphere. I guess I could have left it to vent in the wheel well but I figured the further away from the tire, fuel lines, and remote canister lines the better?

From pegasus :
ITG 16mm ID Engine Crankcase Breather
16mm (5/8 inch) Pegasus Pro Design Aluminum Hose Joiner