SMG to 6MT Conversion

[RaliusM3]

When doing the smg to 6mt, how did you wire up the clutch switch signal? The clutch switch signal should be connected to the said GPS wire (one of the 2 wires) in series, and then have the other wire connected to DME X6002 (24pin connector) pin20. You could cut the 2pin connector off and solder the wires together, or find the correct connector and wire the wires up.

All it says on here to do, is to wire pin 20 on the dme to the ground wire of the SMG ecu. So i did that, and made the pin 13 wire from the smg ecu go to the pin 2 of the clutch switch. See what i mean? Its all very confusing. Now, you’re saying to wire the GPS inline to pin 20. then what do I do with pin 13 of the smg ecu? Which is correct?

[sapote]

All it says on here to do, is to wire pin 20 on the dme to the ground wire of the SMG ecu. So i did that, and made the pin 13 wire from the smg ecu go to the pin 2 of the clutch switch. See what i mean? Its all very confusing. Now, you’re saying to wire the GPS inline to pin 20. then what do I do with pin 13 of the smg ecu? Which is correct?

There are 2 ways to do this:
1. Using the stock SMG computer connector which the stock GPS harness connected to, and the new 2pin 6mt GPS needs to be somehow connected to the stock GPS connector. The DME X60002 pin20 needs to connect to the SMG computer connector pin.
It doesn't make sense to connect DME pin20 (24pin connector) to smg ECU ground wire, as this pin should be reading the clutch sw and the GPS.
2. My method of skip the old SMG harness and GPS: connect the clutch switch to the GPS and then connect the GPS other wire to the DME pin20.

[George Hill]

You can certainly do it how Sapote mentioned above, and to be honest it seems that's how most people do it too. But If you go Clutch Switch to GPS and GPS to X60002 pin20 then you have effectively hardwired the engine harness to the car. If you wanted to remove the harness (or engine) you know how to de-pin the wiring.

On my SMG to 6MT conversions I remove all the excess SMG wiring from the transmission/O2 sensor harness BUT leave the wiring for the Temp sensor and reverse lights. The reverse light wiring is no different for SMG vs 6MT so don't touch it. You will have two brown wires from the Temp sensor, which now we are going to use as the GPS wiring:
1. Connected the terminated wire from the temp sensor (previously de-pinned from the SMG connector) and connect it to pin 20 of X60002.

2. Connect the cut wire from the temp sensor (previously went to a splice point) to another length of wire (I use gray as thats the factory color) and run the gray wire to X6053 #5 and terminate it in that housing.
3. I have found that all the engine harnesses have the wire from X6053 to X6011 whether its an SMG car or not so that one is already there.
4. Wire the clutch switch to the connector in the e-box, X6011 pin #7, which is already there as it is part of the body harness.

Doing it this way allows the harnesses to be disconnected and removed if needed just like the factory intended.

Last step is on the GPS there is a keyway for the connector, this keyway does not line up with the temp sensor connector so just shave that off the GPS connector. The GPS is just a switch to close the circuit so it doesn't matter which way the connector is connected to it.


Unfortunately I didn't take a before pic, but here's an after of the last harness I modified:

IMG_5304 by George, on Flickr

IMG_5308 by George, on Flickr


And the wiring diagram:

ClutchSw-E46M3 by George, on Flickr

[RaliusM3]

You can certainly do it how Sapote mentioned above, and to be honest it seems that's how most people do it too. But If you go Clutch Switch to GPS and GPS to X60002 pin20 then you have effectively hardwired the engine harness to the car. If you wanted to remove the harness (or engine) you know how to de-pin the wiring.

Thanks for the help. I ended up wiring it the way you mentioned. Now, i have a problem.

I put everything all back together and now I get fuel and cranking when i push clutch but no spark. Tach needle does not bounce at all. CPS looked clean and not getting a code for it. The temp gauge goes all the way to the red as soon as you turn to Key Pos 2.

i can communicate with the DME and will post the codes below. What’s strange is, the temp sender, oil sensor, and throttle all worked before doing this. And I’m not getting a code for the CPS. I havent flashed to the 6MT tune yet because winkfp keeps giving me an error 200 saying that the needed number is not found in the konv.tmp/hwnr.da2 file, i will post that below and look for another program to flash with. But I can code the other modules in NCS and can read the dme in INPA. The Throttle Actuator problem is likely because I took it apart to clean it and even though I tested its function it doesn’t have good values so I plan on ordering a new one but don’t think that would prevent starting.

I’m almost wondering if somehow I damaged a cable that connects to all of these, what are the chances that all of these sensors would go out on their own? Thanks in advance.

[m3fool]

What’s the opinion on this route ? Without dropping the trans or machining

https://youtu.be/yHng1qT1PJg

https://youtu.be/cmAYuN3YpBI
more in depth

[sapote]

What’s the opinion on this route ? Without dropping the trans or machining

It doesn't look nice as the stock shifter. I don't like how it looks.

Btw, don't need to drill and machine the hole for the 5/6 gear gate, so should be 50% off the cost.

[George Hill]

Thanks for the help. I ended up wiring it the way you mentioned. Now, i have a problem.

I put everything all back together and now I get fuel and cranking when i push clutch but no spark. Tach needle does not bounce at all. CPS looked clean and not getting a code for it. The temp gauge goes all the way to the red as soon as you turn to Key Pos 2.

i can communicate with the DME and will post the codes below. What’s strange is, the temp sender, oil sensor, and throttle all worked before doing this. And I’m not getting a code for the CPS. I havent flashed to the 6MT tune yet because winkfp keeps giving me an error 200 saying that the needed number is not found in the konv.tmp/hwnr.da2 file, i will post that below and look for another program to flash with. But I can code the other modules in NCS and can read the dme in INPA. The Throttle Actuator problem is likely because I took it apart to clean it and even though I tested its function it doesn’t have good values so I plan on ordering a new one but don’t think that would prevent starting.

I’m almost wondering if somehow I damaged a cable that connects to all of these, what are the chances that all of these sensors would go out on their own? Thanks in advance.

Did you connect the wrong connectors to the DME?

[George Hill]

It doesn't look nice as the stock shifter. I don't like how it looks.

Btw, don't need to drill and machine the hole for the 5/6 gear gate, so should be 50% off the cost.

We discussed this and you agreed that was not the right way to go about it... AND BTW the 5/6 gate not being drilled is not "half the cost." Why do you keep spreading this misinformation?

[sapote]

We discussed this and you agreed that was not the right way to go about it... AND BTW the 5/6 gate not being drilled is not "half the cost." Why do you keep spreading this misinformation?

When did I agree that not having the detent pin for 5/6 gate is not the way to go?

on the 50% off due to one detent pin is not needed, take this with a grain of salt.

[RaliusM3]

Did you connect the wrong connectors to the DME?

Well i just made myself look like an idiot. HOW was i able to connect the smg connector to the dme??? It runs!!!

[tlow98]

Well i just made myself look like an idiot. HOW was i able to connect the smg connector to the dme??? It runs!!!

All of this is helpful. No worries. Most of us are stumbling in the dark. George our savior :-)

[George Hill]

When did I agree that not having the detent pin for 5/6 gate is not the way to go?

on the 50% off due to one detent pin is not needed, take this with a grain of salt.

I re-read your post in the thread: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...ent-pin-spring

I realized I misunderstood your statement, I thought you were agreeing that it isn't the best option. Instead of running the spring you would stick a wine cork in the transmission, does a wine cork degrade in trans/atf fluid? You really are holding firm onto this idea that you don't need one of the gate detents. Have you tried this? I really feel like you are spreading misinformation by saying "do this..." when you have no idea if it'll work or not. I don't claim to know everything but when I propose something either I have done it and no the results OR I state that it may or may not work. There are plenty of guys reading these forums and not realizing the information is untested then get themselves into trouble. I appreciate you trying to help the community but from my end some of this is a disservice.

[George Hill]

Well i just made myself look like an idiot. HOW was i able to connect the smg connector to the dme??? It runs!!!

You wouldn't be the first one... DME connectors are black and SMG connectors are gray (auto trans connectors are blue)... I imagine they were molded the same to cut down on production costs.

[sapote]

Well i just made myself look like an idiot. HOW was i able to connect the smg connector to the dme??? It runs!!!

If you connected the SMG 40pin connector to the DME, engine might run but no communication to the dash cluster - why the senor gauges didn't work and the coolant gauge went to red - and the gas pedal doesn't respond. You're lucky this didn't burn the DME.

[m3fool]

We discussed this and you agreed that was not the right way to go about it... AND BTW the 5/6 gate not being drilled is not "half the cost." Why do you keep spreading this misinformation?

if your speaking about the swap I posted examples of then yes it’s around 1k unless you get a more expensive shifter ?