Originally posted by STAATS
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Moroso Aluminum Expansion Tank
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We've run the Moroso tanks on racecars without issue and I would do it again for them, but I don't think it's the right solution for a street car.'09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
Email to George@HillPerformance.com
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Well just completed the first test - so the sensor reacts as expected. When the float opens the switch the dash displays the coolant level warning light. When the float closes the switch the dash coolant level warning light clears. There is a ~15sec delay between changing from open/close status to the dash reacting with the appropriate warning light or clearing of warning light.
So I can confirm this switch will successfully integrate with the stock wiring and dash system. Good start.
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Okay second test completed. The sight glass thread DOES NOT match the coolant level switch thread. The sight glass thread appears to be straight cut and the sight glass has a seal of sorts for it to work whereas the coolant level switch appears to have a tapered thread of sorts... the coolant level switch goes in the first few threads and then starts going on weird angles (hard to capture in photos). so the install will 100% require the use of the weld-in bung that comes in the kit.
I took some photos of the bits that came, testing of the switch open/shut and trying to test the sight glass in the supplied weld-in bung and the switch in the sight glass bung etc to show how they dont match up. Please see gallery:
So final step is to install the weld-in bung provided... this won't be happening for some time... I need to remove the tank and the bracket as i will also need to weld on an attachment to the bracket for the Chase Bays Windscreen Wiper tank i am using... so that is a project for when i get time and go and see the welder... I will update on status and with photos once complete.
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Originally posted by Obioban View PostSeems like a downgrade to me. Heavier, loses the sensor. I could see it in a car with a failure prone stock tank, but that’s not us.
Ian,
Not only its a downgrade what your pointing but there is another more critical downgrade.. !!!!
Keep the OEM.
Regards,
Anri
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Originally posted by Obioban View Post
Which tank split?
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The Non-Ms have an issue with the ETs because the ET sits against the hot end of the radiator AND (if equipped) has transmission cooler nearby. The non-M ETs see a lot more heat. The M3 tanks don't have this as a common issue. I wouldn't just go replace the OE tank but if mine were old or already split then why not?
I used a custom Canton Racing 2qt tank in the drug bin. It makes a significant difference with coolant temperatures since its a large aluminum heatsink. Combined with deleting the heater core loop, my water temps maybe get up to 205 degrees.
AND...you can use a higher pressure cap for more boilover protection. Good for a track car.
I've thought about welding a custom bung on the bottom of the tank and using the E36 coolant level sender. The E36 sender has a large threaded nut.
Last edited by bigjae46; 08-08-2020, 03:05 PM.
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Originally posted by bigjae46 View PostThe Non-Ms have an issue with the ETs because the ET sits against the hot end of the radiator AND (if equipped) has transmission cooler nearby. The non-M ETs see a lot more heat. The M3 tanks don't have this as a common issue. I wouldn't just go replace the OE tank but if mine were old or already split then why not?
I used a custom Canton Racing 2qt tank in the drug bin. It makes a significant difference with coolant temperatures since its a large aluminum heatsink. Combined with deleting the heater core loop, my water temps maybe get up to 205 degrees.
AND...you can use a higher pressure cap for more boilover protection. Good for a track car.
I've thought about welding a custom bung on the bottom of the tank and using the E36 coolant level sender. The E36 sender has a large threaded nut.
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Okay its taken forever but i finally have it welded into the tank. Check the latest photos in the album:
I also modified the bracket it sits on so I can now mount my Chase Bays Windscreen Washer tank in place of the SAP. If anyone is interested in that I can get that up in another thread.
Once I re-install Ill get some more pictures and confirm all is still working but it looks like I should be all set with a Moroso ET and a working dash warning light again
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Originally posted by STAATS View PostOkay i have just updated the album of some photos of the Moroso tank installed in the car with the level sensor in place... I have also filled the coolant and checked the dash light and it is all working... very very happy with the result:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZymxiXvSRgXZsQpW6
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