Looking for clutch replacement DIY recommendations

[dukeofchen]

I picked up 1/2" extensions with a wobble socket, plus I have a decent size ratchet, hoping it won't be bad. I changed out my starter about 8 months ago and didn't really have issues removing starter bolts besides access, added anti-seize so at least those bolts won't be an issue. For the pilot bearing I will need to do the same as you either tissue or bread.

Here is the video(https://youtu.be/VL8sS7WNSs8?si=9irXa6nky5QY6iSv) I was talking about, although this guy unbolted the subframe completely, plus with his lift he had a tons of space once the engine was lowered. The first comment under the video mentioned 1" unbolted helped a lot.

Wow, I was definitely working with a LOT less clearance than he has in the video, so his approach seems like a good way to go. Makes sense since however much the subframe is dropped you'll get some multiple of that in clearance further back at the bell housing.

If your pilot bearing is anything like mine, put on some heavy metal and imagine yourself wielding Thor's hammer. And use a rod or bolt as close to the ID of the bearing as possible to minimize the amount of tissue / water / bread extruding itself through the gap as you hammer away. It'll be stuck…until it isn't.

[SteelGreyM]

I've done this many times. It's really not that tough of a job and you can't really screw it up.

Some tips-

-Use an electric 3/8” ratchet and get all the different size extensions you can. If you don't have an electric ratchet what are you even doing? It’s hell working on cars without power tools.

-Bread + grease works just fine for the pilot bearing

-Remove the fan from the front of the motor this will allow it to tilt backwards *without nicking the radiator.* This makes it easier to access the top bell housing bolts.

-do not unbolt the subframe you will just lengthen the job and create unnecessary work

-if using stock clutch and pressure plate just remember that the pressure plate is one time use and requires a special tool to reset it. So basically be sure you’re 100% ready to put it back on cause it ain’t coming off.

-in my experience it's easier to just lift the trans than use a trans jack. It's really not that heavy. Having a friend around for the actual physical removal and install of the trans is very helpful. One person can be at the bell housing making sure everything is lining up while the other is doing the heavy lifting/manipulation of the trans.

Good luck and work clean! If you need any help you can always message me

[6speedS54]

I've done this many times. It's really not that tough of a job and you can't really screw it up.

Some tips-

-Use an electric 3/8” ratchet and get all the different size extensions you can. If you don't have an electric ratchet what are you even doing? It’s hell working on cars without power tools.

-Bread + grease works just fine for the pilot bearing

-Remove the fan from the front of the motor this will allow it to tilt backwards *without nicking the radiator.* This makes it easier to access the top bell housing bolts.

-do not unbolt the subframe you will just lengthen the job and create unnecessary work

-if using stock clutch and pressure plate just remember that the pressure plate is one time use and requires a special tool to reset it. So basically be sure you’re 100% ready to put it back on cause it ain’t coming off.

-in my experience it's easier to just lift the trans than use a trans jack. It's really not that heavy. Having a friend around for the actual physical removal and install of the trans is very helpful. One person can be at the bell housing making sure everything is lining up while the other is doing the heavy lifting/manipulation of the trans.

Good luck and work clean! If you need any help you can always message me

Thank you !!!

Yes using all stock parts. I end up using a cordless drill instead of a ratchet, been planning on getting one, but just been lazy.

[SteelGreyM]

Thank you !!!

Yes using all stock parts. I end up using a cordless drill instead of a ratchet, been planning on getting one, but just been lazy.

E ratchet way better imo. First electric tool ive ever owned and still works like a charm years later.

[Big Nodge]

First time I’ve been compared to a grandpa! I’m only 44. But if the shoe fits. All healed up thanks, surgery was last December, raced champcar at Watkins Glen in my buddy’s E30 racecar in May, rode downhill MTB at Whistler with my son a few weeks ago, so I’m back baby.

I would again highly suggest an electric ratchet. Once you finally get the socket on the top bolts, you really don’t want it to slip off again. And having an electric ratchet or impact helps you keep pressure on the extensions to hold the socket in place while backing the bolt out with the e ratchet.

This worked well for my pilot bearing, and the centering bushing on the driveshaft. Handy thing to have in the shop: https://www.harborfreight.com/slide-hammer-and-bearing-puller-set-5-piece-62601.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_ca mpaign=21905696056&campaignid=21905696056&utm_cont ent=169026379663&adsetid=169026379663&product=6260 1&store=338&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21905696 05 6&gbraid=0AAAAADAHb4cBiutAdbW_fRcbl0i4zbF2X&gcli d= EAIaIQobChMIiqym0fPLjwMVg2dHAR0MhRT0EAQYASABEgL96P D_BwE

[dukeofchen]

I've done this many times. It's really not that tough of a job and you can't really screw it up.

I'm far from a wrench god and admittedly hit every branch falling out of the tree on this job without power tools or a transmission jack – but OP is planning to do this on jack stands, which I'd say makes it significantly tougher than it would be with a lift or even the additional clearance afforded by quickjacks.

[6speedS54]

I'm far from a wrench god and admittedly hit every branch falling out of the tree on this job without power tools or a transmission jack – but OP is planning to do this on jack stands, which I'd say makes it significantly tougher than it would be with a lift or even the additional clearance afforded by quickjacks.

I hit up the neighborhood on Nextdoor to see if anyone had quickjacks but crickets That's why I grabbed a pair of 6 ton jack stands, they go up to 23 inches, although my rear ones are 3 ton which only go up 16-17. Should be ok though. A bit more room upfront with those.

[BL92]

Honestly wouldn't risk removing the box without a proper gearbox jack

Check this DIY and the jack he used

https://youtu.be/f8-9svwF60g?t=500

Pittburgh transmission jack

[BL92]

This guy uses a transmission jack as well

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjvL4A7kVjk

This is why not to use a pry bar to take off the gearbox

























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[6speedS54]

FYI, transmission Guide Sleeve is very close in diameter to the main seal, used one could be used to squeeze new seal in

[bigjae46]

First, I pull the intake mani and undo the starter bolts from up top. A 10mm ratcheting wrench with a flex head.

Then I loosen the engine mounts and then use an engine bar to lift the engine a bit. Then loosen the subframe bolts and leave a couple of threads. Then lower the engine back onto the engine mounts. Extra work but makes getting to the twp lower block bolts WAY easier. You can just use a straight extension and not screw up the bolt head and avoid cross threading the bolt when reinstalling. Or use a long reach ratchet.

The back of the trans is heavier…be ready when it comes off.

[6speedS54]

First, I pull the intake mani and undo the starter bolts from up top. A 10mm ratcheting wrench with a flex head.

Then I loosen the engine mounts and then use an engine bar to lift the engine a bit. Then loosen the subframe bolts and leave a couple of threads. Then lower the engine back onto the engine mounts. Extra work but makes getting to the twp lower block bolts WAY easier. You can just use a straight extension and not screw up the bolt head and avoid cross threading the bolt when reinstalling. Or use a long reach ratchet.

The back of the trans is heavier…be ready when it comes off.

Can I do this without the engine bar? maybe raise engine from the AC compressor? I did this when changing the engine mounts.

[bigjae46]

Can I do this without the engine bar? maybe raise engine from the AC compressor? I did this when changing the engine mounts.

Probably can just put a jack on the front subframe, back the subframe bolts out and slowly lower the subframe.

[6speedS54]

Probably can just put a jack on the front subframe, back the subframe bolts out and slowly lower the subframe.

great, I got 3 hydraulic jacks ready to go 😂

[Slideways]

Don't shops just jack up the front of the engine a little, while it is still connected to the front subframe, to gain more access to the trans bolts? Removing the subframe with the trans mount disconnected seems very sketchy, even with the engine support bar.

TIS says to remove the intake manifold as well; otherwise, that carbon airbox might go crunch against the firewall.