DIY: Looking for clutch replacement DIY recommendations

[6speedS54]

I am getting ready to replace my clutch on jack stands (3 ton, max height 16-17 inches).
- I've watched multiple YouTube videos from different people (FCP, shoplife, a few others) and have a pretty good sense of what I need to do.
- I got 1/2" drive extensions with a wobble connector for the top bolts and a decent size ratchet to make it easier
- My biggest concern is reaching the top transmission bolts and detaching and then re-attaching the transmission

I am looking for suggestions that will make it easier, for example I saw someone mention to unbolt subframe bolts a little bit and losen up the engine mounts, that way the engine would lower just a tiny bit which would give more clearance. Is that safe?

Any other suggestions, I've never tackled this, but have removed the drive shaft and replaced the shifter/guibo previously.

[///M3RIC]

I’m in the middle of this right now and some engine work so I have the intake manifold removed. This has made it easier to access some of the top bolts, the e12s on the starter can be removed from this angle. At the very least you can line up the socket with the e12s and e14s that are up there.

I think when I put everything back it will also make it easier because I’ll be able to get the bolts started by hand.

For some bolts, it is ideal to have an impact wrench because there’s not much room for ratcheting.

I didn’t loosen the subframe or engine mounts, not sure about that method.

[6speedS54]

I’m in the middle of this right now and some engine work so I have the intake manifold removed. This has made it easier to access some of the top bolts, the e12s on the starter can be removed from this angle. At the very least you can line up the socket with the e12s and e14s that are up there.

I think when I put everything back it will also make it easier because I’ll be able to get the bolts started by hand.

For some bolts, it is ideal to have an impact wrench because there’s not much room for ratcheting.

I didn’t loosen the subframe or engine mounts, not sure about that method.

how long is it taking you?

yeah I can see having access to the starter bolts, I had to change my starter 10 months ago and remove those e12s. I hope not to go that route but certainly not off the table

[///M3RIC]

how long is it taking you?

yeah I can see having access to the starter bolts, I had to change my starter 10 months ago and remove those e12s. I hope not to go that route but certainly not off the table

I’m in the middle of a long term project so I can’t really provide input on time.

[Big Nodge]

I did this on my E36 M3 recently, you can probably get better E46-specific tips. But I did loosen the engine mounts and used an engine support bar to tip the front of the engine up a bit, to give you a little more angle to get at the top bolts. Double check if that's a good idea on the E46, it's possible it puts pressure on stuff up near the firewall as the engine tips. I just tipped it slowly and kept an eye on everything. On my car the transmission tunnel sound deadening material was deteriorating and that was sort of a nightmare, so getting that stuff cleaned up and out of the way helped a lot. I found an amazon borescope was really helpful in getting the socket on the top bolts. An electric ratchet or impact also really helps, as suggested. Probably the best accessory is a friend with long skinny arms.

I also found this very helpful: https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ack-70262.html

[6speedS54]

I did this on my E36 M3 recently, you can probably get better E46-specific tips. But I did loosen the engine mounts and used an engine support bar to tip the front of the engine up a bit, to give you a little more angle to get at the top bolts. Double check if that's a good idea on the E46, it's possible it puts pressure on stuff up near the firewall as the engine tips. I just tipped it slowly and kept an eye on everything. On my car the transmission tunnel sound deadening material was deteriorating and that was sort of a nightmare, so getting that stuff cleaned up and out of the way helped a lot. I found an amazon borescope was really helpful in getting the socket on the top bolts. An electric ratchet or impact also really helps, as suggested. Probably the best accessory is a friend with long skinny arms.

I also found this very helpful: https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ack-70262.html

Thank you !! I am borrowing that scissor jack from a friend, the engine tilting part, don’t have engine support but will use a jack with a piece of wood on the oil pan or AC compressor to push it up a little, I think I only need small amount of movement for better clearance.

[BL92]

Here is TIS instructions

Link expires in 24 hours

https://jumpshare.com/s/TL0GW5lxVUdHNnF5whJ2

[oceansize]

PDF of the above

dfA019gt1ap.pdf

[M3fanatic580]

Thanks for the instructional uploads. Will be attempting this soon.

[Big Nodge]

Good luck . ... .while I think this was a freak occurrence, I feel compelled to warm you to be careful separating the tranny from the engine once you get the bolts out. I got all the bolts out myself and was rushing to get the tranny out since I had to go somewhere. The tranny input shaft was slightly fused to the clutch with a little corrosion, and it took some force to break it free. So I am lying on my back under the car, pushing up and twisting the tranny with both arms to break it loose and my left bicep tendon popped. Made a nice crunch, cost me surgery and about 4 months of my life, including a full snowboard season. Worst part, after surgery some buddies came by to help get the tranny out, mostly for my mental health. They wiggled it free in like two minutes. I was that close! So yeah, be careful. As a co-worker who had the same injury put it, "weird shit started happening after I turned 40".

[dukeofchen]

In my experience anything you can do to get extra tilt is worth it. If I were to do it again I'd loosen the motor mounts, remove the fan/shroud, and use an engine support bar to avoid jacking from the oil pan.

The top passenger side bolts are a bear because you can't see / reach them from above even with the manifold/starter out of the way. And with all the wobbles/extensions required, getting the socket onto those e-torx heads is like playing a claw game at the arcade. So if nothing else the extra clearance will allow you to shine more light down the transmission tunnel as you try to line things up while curled up like a shrimp 😂

[6speedS54]

Good luck . ... .while I think this was a freak occurrence, I feel compelled to warm you to be careful separating the tranny from the engine once you get the bolts out. I got all the bolts out myself and was rushing to get the tranny out since I had to go somewhere. The tranny input shaft was slightly fused to the clutch with a little corrosion, and it took some force to break it free. So I am lying on my back under the car, pushing up and twisting the tranny with both arms to break it loose and my left bicep tendon popped. Made a nice crunch, cost me surgery and about 4 months of my life, including a full snowboard season. Worst part, after surgery some buddies came by to help get the tranny out, mostly for my mental health. They wiggled it free in like two minutes. I was that close! So yeah, be careful. As a co-worker who had the same injury put it, "weird shit started happening after I turned 40".

I am giving myself at least a day for this starting early in the morning (Sat/Sun), just picked up 6 ton jack stands for the front to raise it a bit higher. Sorry to hear about your bicep, hope it all healed up, this reminds me of my grandpa when I was way younger and he popped his bicep trying to lift something. I am 51, so I know what your friend was saying, a this moment my ankle is kinda tender for no reason 😂

[6speedS54]

In my experience anything you can do to get extra tilt is worth it. If I were to do it again I'd loosen the motor mounts, remove the fan/shroud, and use an engine support bar to avoid jacking from the oil pan.

The top passenger side bolts are a bear because you can't see / reach them from above even with the manifold/starter out of the way. And with all the wobbles/extensions required, getting the socket onto those e-torx heads is like playing a claw game at the arcade. So if nothing else the extra clearance will allow you to shine more light down the transmission tunnel as you try to line things up while curled up like a shrimp 😂

Have you tried partially unbolting the subframe bolts? I was watching a video, now I forgot which one, and the guy said you only need 3/4 of an inch or so to get better spacing?

[dukeofchen]

Have you tried partially unbolting the subframe bolts? I was watching a video, now I forgot which one, and the guy said you only need 3/4 of an inch or so to get better spacing?

I didn't, but that seems like it would achieve the same effect. It's definitely a game of inches with those top bolts, I imagine it also would have been much easier if I had an impact wrench on hand at the time, as snaking the extensions onto the head with only a breaker bar was comically difficult.

Another sticking point for me was the pilot bearing, as mine was quite seized in there. Common jaw pullers can't get purchase on the inner race of the bearing, so I went with the old school wet tissue / bolt / hammer method, but it took a LOT of pounding before it would budge.

[6speedS54]

I didn't, but that seems like it would achieve the same effect. It's definitely a game of inches with those top bolts, I imagine it also would have been much easier if I had an impact wrench on hand at the time, as snaking the extensions onto the head with only a breaker bar was comically difficult.

Another sticking point for me was the pilot bearing, as mine was quite seized in there. Common jaw pullers can't get purchase on the inner race of the bearing, so I went with the old school wet tissue / bolt / hammer method, but it took a LOT of pounding before it would budge.

I picked up 1/2" extensions with a wobble socket, plus I have a decent size ratchet, hoping it won't be bad. I changed out my starter about 8 months ago and didn't really have issues removing starter bolts besides access, added anti-seize so at least those bolts won't be an issue. For the pilot bearing I will need to do the same as you either tissue or bread.

Here is the video(https://youtu.be/VL8sS7WNSs8?si=9irXa6nky5QY6iSv) I was talking about, although this guy unbolted the subframe completely, plus with his lift he had a tons of space once the engine was lowered. The first comment under the video mentioned 1" unbolted helped a lot.