Grabbed a scan of the underbody to merge with the other ones I've got - looks like there's actually plenty of room above the shear plate! Gotta watch that motor mount heat shield though.
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‘02 332iT / 6 | ‘70 Jaguar XJ6 electric conversion -
My car is also on the lift with no headers on it. Happy to scan something in particular tomorrow.'09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
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If it’s level and has a gearbox, scan it all!Originally posted by George Hill View Post‘02 332iT / 6 | ‘70 Jaguar XJ6 electric conversionComment
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Nice work on this! Really happy someone is finally doing proper analysis of our s54’s!Comment
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Back on this and printing plastic test parts. Fitting parts into the available space and making it possible to install and remove the headers are not the same thing and the first version I printed could not physically be installed in the car. I'm switching my exhaust studs to the m7x30mm studs, I believe the car has N52 studs on it right now. The longer the studs, the harder it is to use up that space because you need the header to be able to back off from the flange that much more. Currently printing these in 3 sections per bank. I believe I have made enough space so that each bank can be installed on its own, the harder question to answer in software if bank 1 prevents bank 2 from being fit into place. The prints are 9-13 hours each and there are 6 of them to get through so it will take a few days but if everything goes well I will have plastic test parts installed in the car in about a week. I also need to confirm that all 18 nuts can be reached with tools.
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Are these all at the last-step diameter?‘02 332iT / 6 | ‘70 Jaguar XJ6 electric conversionComment
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It's a taper from 41.5mm to 46mm across the whole primary length. I laid out the splines so it would accommodate up to 47mm constant diameter. It might be able to go higher than that as well. Getting it to physically possible to install is going to be a significant hurdle and I am hoping it doesn't require lifting the engine to do it. The way the banks wrap around each other I'm skeptical I can fish them both into place. If it does require moving the engine I am hoping to limit it to a few inches of lift with a cherry picker.Originally posted by Bry5on View PostLast edited by 3staxontheradio; 10-20-2026, 01:46 PM.Comment
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Bank 2 can be installed even with the n52 studs. It was a tight fit and swapping to shorter studs would have made it way easier. I still plan to do that and expect I will probably need to once I have bank 1 done for install testing.
I also need to install my o2 sensors and see if there is enough wire length to make it down to the collector and then figure out bung placement. I want two sets of bungs. One for factory o2 and second one for a wide band location.
Attached FilesLast edited by 3staxontheradio; 10-22-2026, 08:05 AM.Comment
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Almost there on test fitting. Bank 1 had a fit issue clearing the engine mount with the n52 studs. Rather than swap studs I think I can make this all work with n52 studs and that will be better for everyone. Doing one more revision and it should install well:
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also funny thing: I didn't initially understand why all the flanges were clocked differently but I accidentally ended up with bend paths that avoid fasteners and realized it was for tool clearance.Comment
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You want me to drop these into the e46 engine bay to do a clearance check? Shoot the STLs over email and I’m happy to do the interference checks!‘02 332iT / 6 | ‘70 Jaguar XJ6 electric conversionComment
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yeah that would be great. these aren't clean final models just fit check for routing before moving it all to fusion. I'll send them over tomorrow.Comment
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Bank 1 revision 2 is done printing and it all fits and installs. Time for me to move all of this over to fusion for the final polished design. I have a small list of changes to make including:
*Polish up bend radii. A few are a little kinked and not ideal.
*shorten primaries slightly. They are currently too long when you add in the collector length
*I want to oversize the primary for the first inch or two after the flange by about 1-2mm in order to accommodate minor misalignment of the primary tube.
*The merges have ended up slightly more out of line than I wanted. It's not a deal breaker and the exhaust design can make up for it without needing to go full twisty straws but I want to attempt to make the path from cylinder 1 slightly straighter in order to move that merge back another few mm. This design has ended up with something like an 8mm total length spread in the primaries but a lot of that will be cleaned up by tweaking bend radius in the final design.
*finalize the flanges with fillets and enough flat surface for the header nuts.
Also I settled on 57.5mm for the collectors because its a good match for readily available 2.25" tube and nearly the same as the stock 55mm collector OD.
Last edited by 3staxontheradio; 10-29-2026, 11:58 AM.Comment
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More craftcloud price testing. I'm testing out different models that are under the ~300ish mm cutoff before the price skyrockets to bigger machines. I adjusted the quantity of models to get in the same ballpark for total print volume then doing the cost per CC of stainless. Density seems to matter a lot but the solid cube is a pretty unrealistic test case. The total amount of material is also a big factor so generally more volume being ordered equals a cheaper price per CC. Cost seems to come in around $1.35 per CC of 316 putting these at ~1300 to get printed in pieces.
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Presto-comparo:
‘02 332iT / 6 | ‘70 Jaguar XJ6 electric conversionComment
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