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    #31
    Originally posted by fattycharged View Post

    Why isn't this a more popular option here? $1500 and just swapping r&p over seems like a deal? IIRC something about output flanges needing to be equal length, Obioban possibly?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Just need to swap the ring gear. Messing with the pinion gear is when it gets complicated.

    I don't think most just won't see the value and spend the money. Probably couldn't tell the difference.

    For track use, you want a mechanical clutch. It locks and unlocks faster and it has a lot more adjustment.


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      #32
      Originally posted by Obioban View Post

      While I understand I’m leaving some performance on the table, the wavetrac really is a great OE+ option. No downsides va stock, works with one tire on ice, no clutches to wear out, silent, easy.
      Cant wait to get mine, now when i get round to installing it is a different story LOL

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        #33
        Originally posted by maupineda View Post

        V1 or V2?
        Diff is a 2004 I honestly am not sure how to check which version I have, unless racing diffs have upgraded to a version 2? It has been a couple of years since I rebuilt the differential.

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          #34
          Originally posted by Zack View Post

          Diff is a 2004 I honestly am not sure how to check which version I have, unless racing diffs have upgraded to a version 2? It has been a couple of years since I rebuilt the differential.
          You can pull one axle stub out and see if it is the short or long stub. I forget which one has the long stub on which side.

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            #35
            So what are the cliff notes on v1 vs v2? The previous owner put a 2006 MY diff into my car for some reason I can’t figure out. Curious what the implications of that are if I decide to upgrade the diff at some point.
            http://www.natehasslerphoto.com
            '99 M3, Hellrot/Sand Beige, slicktop
            '01 M3, Imola/black

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              #36
              Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post

              You can pull one axle stub out and see if it is the short or long stub. I forget which one has the long stub on which side.
              IIRC V2 short stub is on driver side, just swapped the V1 out a couple months ago, which is why the wavetrac is interesting. Don't want to dump a bunch of money into rebuilding it and already has a 4.1 on it


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                #37
                Hello, 1st post on the forum. I have just pulled the diff on my e46 m3 for a wavetrac and 3.91 conversion. Does everyone still like this?

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by CHC1 View Post
                  Hello, 1st post on the forum. I have just pulled the diff on my e46 m3 for a wavetrac and 3.91 conversion. Does everyone still like this?
                  I still like the wavetrac and never liked 3.91s (or 4.10s) 🤣

                  2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
                  2012 LMB/Black 128i
                  100 Series Land Cruiser

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                    #39
                    Finally had everything installed. Initial impressions, the clunks my car had when changing gears is completely gone.
                    Going through 500 mile break in procedure so I cant fully test everything out yet, will update thread after break in and some spirited driving.

                    Initial problems for the diff were from this thread
                    Hi Everyone, Well i had my driveshaft rebuilt a few weeks ago and about week after, i noticed a loud clicking/banging noise under the center console, during 1st gear launch (flame suit on). Weird thing it only happens sometimes. I took it back to the shop that had my driveshaft rebuilt, they checked, guibo, u-joints, center
                    2004 M3 6MT | Eventuri Intake | 3.91 | Wavetrac
                    2006 325Ci SULEV |ZF 5MT Swap | Koni Yellows | H&R | 330i Brakes | Magnaflow Catback | AFE | APEX ARC-8 18x9 |​

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by Zack View Post

                      Diff is a 2004 I honestly am not sure how to check which version I have, unless racing diffs have upgraded to a version 2? It has been a couple of years since I rebuilt the differential.
                      V2 requires the special tool to remove the lock ring in order to remove the clutch pack; If you have V2 then I'm sure you never forget this experience.

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by Zack View Post

                        I can attest to this, I rebuilt my diff with racing diffs clutch pack and within 500 miles I have an open diff instead... Need to open it back up and go back to stock!
                        The new rebuilt unit failed can be due to clutches material, or wrong clutch pack preload setup. I'm not a fan of Racing Diff but I doubt their clutches would fail in 500 miles.

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                          #42
                          The issue with their kits is that they preload the f’ out of the unit, specially V2. V1 is ok as is a floating design inside the casing, but the way they shim the V2 is very questionable. I have their kit but my build was very conservative and I followed the factory strategy. My V2 unit was the same preload before and after the rebuild (~60NM), and their clutches lock up just fine, and I am free of any play and clunk.

                          I guess I will never be able to tell how durable those clutches are since I only drive 1-2k miles per year.

                          the beautify of the factory LSD is that if working properly it would lock more than the tradition clutch type LSD, but it has its drawbacks which make them less ideal for track work

                          interestingly, every journalist praised how balanced and easy to drift the e46 and E9x M cars were when new, which mean the factory diffs are more than adequate for most enthusiasts
                          Last edited by maupineda; 01-01-2026, 02:28 PM.

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                            #43
                            Originally posted by maupineda View Post
                            The issue with their kits is that they preload the f’ out of the unit, specially V2. V1 is ok as is a floating design inside the casing, but the way they shim the V2 is very questionable. I have their kit but my build was very conservative and I followed the factory strategy. My V2 unit was the same preload before and after the rebuild (~60NM), and their clutches lock up just fine, and I am free of any play and clunk.
                            Yes, the V2 unit in my E90 M3 was very good when it was new. Over time the diff would be more and more delayed to lock up which isn't a huge deal. The issue is it is slower to unlock so the diff puts you into a nice tank slapper. You have to time a throttle lift when the LSD unlocks. Get it wrong, you're getting sideways the other direction.

                            Racing Diffs says that the visco-lock mechanism wears out which is why they shim the clutch pack. I think the real solution is to rebuild or replace the visco-lock unit. That would be my preference for my street driven E90 M3. I don't think anyone has attempted to source a replacement or rebuild.

                            I think I have an extra V1 unit somewhere if anyone wants to give it a try. Might still have a V2 unit as well.

                            If the visco-lock units can be rebuilt to like new for a couple hundred $$$ then I'd take that over a Wavetrac any day of the week.
                            Last edited by bigjae46; 01-02-2026, 09:49 AM.

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                              #44
                              I just installed a 5:1 ring/pinion and have a spare to eat too

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                                #45
                                Originally posted by elrichmeister View Post
                                So what is consensus on getting new clutch packs? Only one i found was the kit from racing diffs
                                https://racingdiffs.com/products/bmw-m3-m5-m6-z4m-lsd-differential-rebuild-kit?_pos=1&_sid=c4374bc39&_ss=r&variant=4249770478 8204

                                I believe the diff on my car is still on original clutch packs car is approaching 176K miles, should i be ordering new clutch packs to give to the shop, if i have my own unit rebuilt?
                                176k!
                                There must be a lot of play in the driveshafts.

                                You need a complete rebuild. So, bearings, etc.

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