New Owner, Would Love Advice

[1000hp]

I also have M11s and did this job back in July. Through all the research I did about whether or not to replace them, I decided not to. If you don't already know: the early M11 bolts are matched to the caps and are designed to be re-used and must be reused in the exact same hole of each cap that they came in. The only replacement option is aftermarket ARP rod bolts. Through reading, I've heard reports of using ARP rod bolts causing slightly ovaled rod bores. On the other hand, I have heard of zero instances where re-using the original M11 bolts have caused any issues or failures down the road. My overall conclusion is that I've seen zero evidence that re-using the M11 bolts as BMW intended is a bad thing (even if some people "don't feel right" about re-using rod bolts), but have seen (admittedly anecdotal) evidence that using the aftermarket bolts have caused issues that could theoretically lead to something bad further down the road. That said I don't know if I ever saw any evidence of a failure being caused by use of ARP bolts, just these reports of people having measured bores slightly out of round after using them.

If you do things properly it is highly unlikely that you'll run into an issue using either the original M11 bolts or the ARPs, and at the end of the day it's all down to personal preference and what makes you feel the most comfortable. Because of the above, I felt best about re-using the OE BMW M11s matched to my rod caps and that's what I did. That said, I actually did have a spare set of ARP bolts on hand during the job just in case something went wrong re-installing the M11s. Say, if I accidentally mixed up the bolts and no longer felt confident that I know which bolt needs to go where, or in case I accidentally overtorqued one and felt like I couldn't trust it anymore. Thankfully everything went smoothly on install and it didn't come to that and I was able to return the ARPs.

I have M10 bolts, so I didn't read the M11 procedure in ISTA. If ISTA says reuse them, I would probably reuse them. But I remember hearing that there is a maximum of five TTYs for those? If so, if you're 100% sure they haven't already been torqued down too many times, it should be fine.

Then again, if there isn't a really good reason not to replace them, I might replace them just in case. If you lose one single rod bolt, you're fucked.

[fattycharged]

I'll look into that one. My manufacture date is December '01 so I think I have the M11 bolts that are way easier to torque. Which brings up a question: should I replace those? I've read that you re use them but i dont know how many times you can do that

don't assume it's original block, mine is an 01 and engine was replaced by BMW due to RB failure


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[ATB88]

I have M10 bolts, so I didn't read the M11 procedure in ISTA. If ISTA says reuse them, I would probably reuse them. But I remember hearing that there is a maximum of five TTYs for those? If so, if you're 100% sure they haven't already been torqued down too many times, it should be fine.

Then again, if there isn't a really good reason not to replace them, I might replace them just in case. If you lose one single rod bolt, you're fucked.

I believe the BMW TSB instructs re-use of the M11 bolts. There would be no other BMW approved alternative other than replacing the rods entirely -- they certainly don't condone use of ARP rod bolts. I don't remember seeing anything about maximum 5 torques in the TSB, that may be a heuristic someone decided to toss out at some point? Though if that is BMW official information that would be good to know. Anyway, hearing about ovaled bores with ARP bolts is, I think, reason enough to avoid them when the M11 bolts are meant to be re-used. Again, though, very good idea to have a set of ARPs on hand in case of emergency like losing an M11 bolt mid-job.

[TR_Beastmode]

I did read about keeping the bolts in the same place so I’ll be sure to mark them to keep everything straight. But grabbing extra bolts is a great idea just to be safe, I’ll be sure to order those as well. Does BMW keep service records? Like if I give them the VIN can they check a database or something and see what they’ve done in the past? If it was taken in for the recall I’d imagine they’d have some record of that somewhere

[1000hp]

I did read about keeping the bolts in the same place so I’ll be sure to mark them to keep everything straight. But grabbing extra bolts is a great idea just to be safe, I’ll be sure to order those as well. Does BMW keep service records? Like if I give them the VIN can they check a database or something and see what they’ve done in the past? If it was taken in for the recall I’d imagine they’d have some record of that somewhere

They should have access to nationwide service records for your VIN.
You can find recall history on the NHTSA website. But rod bearings were likely a campaign, rather than a recall. Recalls are safety-related and government regulated.

[OldRanger]

3) Rod bearings. Oh Lord help me. When I changed the oil, it was like I was panning for gold. There's a lot of copper. I sent a sample to Blackstone though, that way I can see how f***** I am scientifically.

Does that picture of your drain pan have used engine oil in it? (I'm having difficulty seeing the image clearly, but it looks like transmission fluid)

[tnord]

going back to the original post....

Of the big3 I'd do engine stuff first, if that fails before you address it it's a huge problem. I did my vanos first, but looking at that oil I'd be terrified of RB, for sure don't drive it until it comes back from blackstone. If your subframe starts failing the repair procedure is still largely the same as the preventative procedure as far as I know. I'm getting ready to do the subframe on mine this winter and I'll finally have all of them done.

I have ARP bolts in mine, and BE coated bearings as recommended by Chicane https://www.chicanemotorsportservice.com/ and owner Brad Perkins, who has been around these cars for quite a while now. I don't have many miles or any track days since the install. I think it matters more that the install is done correctly than the parts themselves. I do most of my own work, and have built entire engines before, but I didn't have the tooling on hand, or the desire to spend that much time on my back on concrete. I think my total bill was around $1k including new motor mounts.

Cooling system is another project that should be high on your list to make sure and avoid a rebuild.

[TR_Beastmode]

Does that picture of your drain pan have used engine oil in it? (I'm having difficulty seeing the image clearly, but it looks like transmission fluid)

I cant remember if I took that picture before or after I drained the trans, but I did use the same pan to drain it. All the copper was there before the trans though

[TR_Beastmode]

going back to the original post....

Of the big3 I'd do engine stuff first, if that fails before you address it it's a huge problem. I did my vanos first, but looking at that oil I'd be terrified of RB, for sure don't drive it until it comes back from blackstone. If your subframe starts failing the repair procedure is still largely the same as the preventative procedure as far as I know. I'm getting ready to do the subframe on mine this winter and I'll finally have all of them done.

I have ARP bolts in mine, and BE coated bearings as recommended by Chicane https://www.chicanemotorsportservice.com/ and owner Brad Perkins, who has been around these cars for quite a while now. I don't have many miles or any track days since the install. I think it matters more that the install is done correctly than the parts themselves. I do most of my own work, and have built entire engines before, but I didn't have the tooling on hand, or the desire to spend that much time on my back on concrete. I think my total bill was around $1k including new motor mounts.

Cooling system is another project that should be high on your list to make sure and avoid a rebuild.

I am driving as little as possible, only need to drive to work a couple times a week and that’s like 1 mile away.

Doing the RB is #1 on my priority list. I’m only missing like $100 worth of tools so I’m mostly ready for the job other than getting the parts and an engine brace. I was looking at the ACL bearings with standard clearance, not the extra clearance ones. I’ll order ARP bolts as insurance but planning on using the stock ones.

I inspected all the coolant hoses when I did the flush and everything looked to be in good shape. Nice and pliable everywhere and no signs of cracking. Radiator looks good too. It regularly gets to +100°F where I’m at in Texas so I have been overly paranoid about overheating lol

[TR_Beastmode]

Alright, so I went through all the parts. I'm ordering everything in the FCP euro RB kit except the bearings themselves. I'm going with the standard clearance ACL bearings instead. Are there any parts in that kit that I should sub out for something else that's better recommended?

[tnord]

I don't know what's in the kit, but if I remember correctly the newer e90 m3 motor mounts are "better," and I think is what chicane put on during the job.

[moproblems]

Alright, so I went through all the parts. I'm ordering everything in the FCP euro RB kit except the bearings themselves. I'm going with the standard clearance ACL bearings instead. Are there any parts in that kit that I should sub out for something else that's better recommended?

So I was going down this rabbit hole too, and I found out that the ACL standard bearings are actually a slightly tighter clearance than what the OEM bearings are. The ACL bearings that FCP sells with that kit were developed by ACL with a member on here (or the old M3 forum) to be a half oversize over the ACL standard. This brings the clearance to a very slight oversize compared to the OEM bearings. They are not a full oversize bearing compared to stock, and from my research, are the option to go with when it comes to ACL. Somebody please correct me if I am wrong.

[tnord]

oversize as in bigger gap to the crank or oversize as in smaller gap? wouldn't that affect what weight oil you'd want to use also?

[jayjaya29]

So I was going down this rabbit hole too, and I found out that the ACL standard bearings are actually a slightly tighter clearance than what the OEM bearings are. The ACL bearings that FCP sells with that kit were developed by ACL with a member on here (or the old M3 forum) to be a half oversize over the ACL standard. This brings the clearance to a very slight oversize compared to the OEM bearings. They are not a full oversize bearing compared to stock, and from my research, are the option to go with when it comes to ACL. Somebody please correct me if I am wrong.

I don't believe this one bit. FCP sells ACL standard (stock sizing) and ACL oversize (for extra oil clearance).

[TR_Beastmode]

I read Somewhere in the forums the oversized bearings are for different size cranks. FCP description for them says it’s for bore distortion at high rpm. I dont Plan on tracking the car so I think I’ll be alright with the standard clearance? Also, the ones in the kit are OEM bearings and way more expensive than the ACLs