New Owner, Would Love Advice

[TR_Beastmode]

Also, here are the other bearings

[1000hp]

So the 12mm extractor has to be hammered on but I dont Have enough room with the subframe right there to swing at it. I tried but can’t hit it very hard so if I’m not supposed to do that anyway, there’s that at least lol.

Try pounding a smaller socket onto it. A 12-point or triple square socket might be the best for that. You can also try pounding the next smallest extractor onto it if you haven't tried that already.

Don't try to grind a slot in it unless you absolutely have too. If it's tight enough for you to round it off it might be tight enough for the head to come apart if you weaken it enough.

[TR_Beastmode]

Try pounding a smaller socket onto it. A 12-point or triple square socket might be the best for that. You can also try pounding the next smallest extractor onto it if you haven't tried that already.

Don't try to grind a slot in it unless you absolutely have too. If it's tight enough for you to round it off it might be tight enough for the head to come apart if you weaken it enough.

Gonna give it another try in the morning, see if I can Come at it a different way with a fresh mind. I’m getting frustrated and don’t want to do anything rash lol

[TR_Beastmode]

So since that bolts rounded off, gonna have to replace it. If I replace with the ARP M11 bolts, not the later model M10 bolts, is the torque procedure the same as the stock M11 bolts? 5nm -> 30nm -> 70° rotation?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-connecting-rod-bolt-set-arp-201-6103

[TR_Beastmode]

I found the ARP instructions for those bolts, stretch gauge to measure them or 70 ft/lbs

[1000hp]

So since that bolts rounded off, gonna have to replace it. If I replace with the ARP M11 bolts, not the later model M10 bolts, is the torque procedure the same as the stock M11 bolts? 5nm -> 30nm -> 70° rotation?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...t-arp-201-6103

Can't put an M10 bolt in an M11 hole.

You might try contacting ARP to see if they'll sell you two bolts instead of a full set, unless you plan on replacing all of them with ARP.

[TR_Beastmode]

Can't put an M10 bolt in an M11 hole.

You might try contacting ARP to see if they'll sell you two bolts instead of a full set, unless you plan on replacing all of them with ARP.

yeah at this point I’ll just go back through and replace all the other rod bolts with the new ones. Still can’t get this effing bolt out though, working on that now still.

I have stock M11 bolts, bought the ARP M11 bolts👍

[TR_Beastmode]

Alright I’ve spent like 4 hours hammering on a socket to no avail. Going nuclear and dremmeling a flathead into it. If I had Just taken the oil pump off in the first place, I wouldve Avoided this entirely. Think it was in the way and I wasn’t seated completely on the bolt initially. Great life lesson on not cutting corners lol

[1000hp]

Well if it breaks, your problem might be solved. Just make sure it breaks completely off.

If not, you'll spend more hours removing the rest of it somehow. And you'll have to be careful not to hurt the rod. And then you'll spend even more hours removing all of the ground up metal from the bottom end.

If you have the option, you might have better luck getting someone to weld a socket onto the bolt.

[Keith_MN]

Alright I’ve spent like 4 hours hammering on a socket to no avail. Going nuclear and dremmeling a flathead into it. If I had Just taken the oil pump off in the first place, I wouldve Avoided this entirely. Think it was in the way and I wasn’t seated completely on the bolt initially. Great life lesson on not cutting corners lol

Taken it from someone who has also made a few mistakes on the rb job. Reference multiple sources in your pre-work. I would consider dropping the oil pump a part of the job given how easy it is to do and the access it grants. I noticed that step is inconsistently covered in the DIYs.

[TR_Beastmode]

Taken it from someone who has also made a few mistakes on the rb job. Reference multiple sources in your pre-work. I would consider dropping the oil pump a part of the job given how easy it is to do and the access it grants. I noticed that step is inconsistently covered in the DIYs.

I removed the pump before I started cutting in to it👍

I can get a chunky flat head bit in it, but it’s stuck in there real good. I’m putting the force of god into this bolt and it won’t break free lol. I broke the first flathead bit I put in. Went to a bigger bit, It slipped out and I think I almost Broke my finger so I’m giving up. Only option from here I can Think of is just cutting the bolt head off, dropping the cap, and trying vice grips on the stud. Any advice on another method?

[TR_Beastmode]

Well if it breaks, your problem might be solved. Just make sure it breaks completely off.

If not, you'll spend more hours removing the rest of it somehow. And you'll have to be careful not to hurt the rod. And then you'll spend even more hours removing all of the ground up metal from the bottom end.

If you have the option, you might have better luck getting someone to weld a socket onto the bolt.

I’ll start asking around and seeing if someone who can weld can come help me👍

[Keith_MN]

Have you applied heat? I think I would use a heat gun to gently warm up the conrod to a moderate temp.

Edit. Also... always keep an extinguisher in your shop. 😄

[TR_Beastmode]

Have you applied heat? I think I would use a heat gun to gently warm up the conrod to a moderate temp.

Edit. Also... always keep an extinguisher in your shop. 😄

Yeah I’ve been using a propane torch to heat it up. I have A heat gun too but I figured the torch was better. And yeah I have an extinguished handy too😂

[TR_Beastmode]

Tomorrow I’m gonna try hammering on a 1/2” socket since that’s slightly bigger than 12mm. Somehow didn’t think of that sooner. If that fails I’ll try vice grips. I’m trying to channel my inner redneck without destroying anything else lol