New Owner, Would Love Advice

[TexaZ3]

I removed the pump before I started cutting in to it👍

I can get a chunky flat head bit in it, but it’s stuck in there real good. I’m putting the force of god into this bolt and it won’t break free lol. I broke the first flathead bit I put in. Went to a bigger bit, It slipped out and I think I almost Broke my finger so I’m giving up. Only option from here I can Think of is just cutting the bolt head off, dropping the cap, and trying vice grips on the stud. Any advice on another method?

Have you tried using a drag link socket?

[TR_Beastmode]

Have you tried using a drag link socket?

if what google shows when I search that is correct, then sort of. The ones I got are an Allen that’s fit into a socket, but the end is a flat head. I broke the small one the set came with, and the bigger ones haven’t broken but they’re slipping out of the bolt head. They are setting pretty solid, but I need another set of hands to hold the bit in. Working on that now👍

[TR_Beastmode]

God is real. Told one of my patients who’s a mechanic my predicament. Came over after he got off work and got it off in like 10 minutes😭

He also said while I was in there I might as well do the main bearings as well. I havent Seen anything about changing those if anyone has any insight there.

[1000hp]

God is real. Told one of my patients who’s a mechanic my predicament. Came over after he got off work and got it off in like 10 minutes😭

He also said while I was in there I might as well do the main bearings as well. I havent Seen anything about changing those if anyone has any insight there.

Glad it worked out.

Leave the mains alone. Quit while you're ahead and move on. Don't know if you can even roll mains in with the crank in place on this engine, but it's not worth the hassle.

[TR_Beastmode]

Glad it worked out.

Leave the mains alone. Quit while you're ahead and move on. Don't know if you can even roll mains in with the crank in place on this engine, but it's not worth the hassle.

I found a video of a guy changing them, you have to remove the cover off the rear main seal to get to the rear-most bearing. So yeah not doing that now, seems like a ton of work

[Cubieman]

I found a video of a guy changing them, you have to remove the cover off the rear main seal to get to the rear-most bearing. So yeah not doing that now, seems like a ton of work

They doing the old cotter pin trick to get the mains?

Good to know you could do that on this engine, still don't know if thats how I would do it though.

[TR_Beastmode]

They doing the old cotter pin trick to get the mains?

Good to know you could do that on this engine, still don't know if thats how I would do it though.

my mechanic friend was telling me about the cotter pin trick, but the edge of the rear main seal cover slightly overlaps the bolts on the cap of the rear-most bearing, so you can’t remove the bolts to get the cap off without removing that cover.

the vid I saw, the guy had the whole engine out of the car and was doing a teardown/rebuild. So he just took that cover off pretty easy.

[Slideways]

Main bearings do not wear like rod bearings. I've seen a few pictures of S54 main bearings and they look like they could go another 200k.

[TR_Beastmode]

Finished the job today👍 went back and swapped out all the rod bolts for the ARP bolts. Everything with the subframe went back together pretty smoothly. The freezing rain has started here in Texas so I didn’t take it out on the road yet, but she idles fine. Did spot any oil leaks either, was kind of surprised!