Tire wear problem.

[pawa_k2001]

Had the front end up, did the standard moving wheels side to side, up and down. Checked tie rod ends, FCAB(Turner Monoballs), control arms, etc. Car is solid, drives perfectly and predictably, perfect.

I am less worried about outside, my guess is that I over-drove the tire since it had a blue(ish) tint on the outside. Inside looks like toe wear and I am hoping alignment rack shows the same, if not, I am lost.

I will try look over the front end again, in case I missed anything.

[Casa de Mesa]

I am less worried about outside, my guess is that I over-drove the tire since it had a blue(ish) tint on the outside. Inside looks like toe wear and I am hoping alignment rack shows the same, if not, I am lost.

Highly unlikely. You can't get great grip on public roads, they are just too dirty. Blueish means you got them warm, but likely due to something ain't right.

Have you ever been to the track with the car? Your 5,000 miles would be more like 500.

Keep is posted. My bet is on a yet to be found issue still, but this is certainly an interesting one. Hope you find a solution soon - crap like this drives you nuts.

[pawa_k2001]

Hoping alignment shows something this week. Definitely agree with track, a weekend at Road Atlanta can destroy a set of RE-71s.

[r4dr]

5000 miles might be toe for the inner wear then. Didn't realize it was so few miles. Either way, something's off. Hope you find some answers on the rack tomorrow.

[Arith2]

Why are guys trying to diagnose this. It's excessive camber. -2.9 is quite a lot. When you fill a tire up to 38 psi and tilt it on its slide like this what would you expect? This is what happens. It is the aligment. There is no mystery here so stop leading this man astray. The outside is melted, heat cycled tires, the inside is excessive camber.

If toe was a problem you would vibrate at the steering wheel, your tires would get feathered which leave wavy bumps from your tire being dragged sideways across the pavement. This is not that.

You drive this car hard and the way it's meant to be driven. Tires are not going to last long, especially ones designed like these. Take out some camber to extend the tire life and possibly increase your grip. 2.9° is ALOT

[FBloggs]

I would concur with the consensus. Too much negative camber..
The inside front treads are getting too hot when you're in a straight line.
once you start driving it hard then you're getting understeer and are scrubbing the already hot inner treads.
The understeer is a combo of excessive neg camber( small contact patch) and because driving hard on a winding road is not really able to roll the tyre contact patch to maximum like it would if you were on a race track. You'd be driving it much harder on a track and the fronts would be working to expectation.
so if all settings are ok, and you have clearance to do so, back off the camber to 2 degrees neg.

[pawa_k2001]

Take out some camber to extend the tire life and possibly increase your grip. 2.9° is ALOT

I tried less(2.4), tire rolls over and outside get destroyed. I may try 2.7 next.

[vp special k]

-2.9 is on the aggressive side but far from excessive especially when OPs car sees spirited driving. Plenty of track guys run -3.5 or more camber up front, my concern is how its getting corded on the very inside edge of tire.

[Casa de Mesa]

-2.9 is on the aggressive side but far from excessive especially when OPs car sees spirited driving. Plenty of track guys run -3.5 or more camber up front, my concern is how its getting corded on the very inside edge of tire.

+1. The outside wear coupled with the inside wear is what makes this one interesting. 38 psi is HOT pressure which means probably 32-34psi cold on a street tire. A bit high, but not excessive.

OP, find anything at the alignment shop?

[pawa_k2001]

PS. Bump steering that bad shouldn't be springs. Springs shouldn't cause bump steer unless the car is rolling MUCH farther than it was with stiffer springs and you're now uncovering a seriously flawed steering arm/tie rod angle.

How low is the car?

I should be at 13.5"f and 13"r but I don't remember exactly. I looked at my tie rod assemblies, they are not perfectly level while static.(point just a bit up)

Just ordered a complete alignment system. Smart Strings, camber/caster gauge, corner balance scales, scale pads, turn plates, rollbacks, pyrometer, etc. This way I can test various setups without taking days off to have an alignment done.

[Casa de Mesa]

I should be at 13.5"f and 13"r but I don't remember exactly. I looked at my tie rod assemblies, they are not perfectly level while static.(point just a bit up)

Just ordered a complete alignment system. Smart Strings, camber/caster gauge, corner balance scales, scale pads, turn plates, rollbacks, pyrometer, etc. This way I can test various setups without taking days off to have an alignment done.

Hell yeah brutha!!! I do all my own alignments and it's sooooo nice. IMHO, way more accurate than a typical alignment shop because nobody will care as much about your alignment as YOU. And you can try out alignments at the track.

Way to go all in. I have a spreadsheet I built to calculate degrees based on measuring the outermost face of the rim. I'll dig it up and post it - makes math way easier if you're trying to get REALLY accurate.

[timmo]

Hell yeah brutha!!! I do all my own alignments and it's sooooo nice. IMHO, way more accurate than a typical alignment shop because nobody will care as much about your alignment as YOU. And you can try out alignments at the track.

Way to go all in. I have a spreadsheet I built to calculate degrees based on measuring the outermost face of the rim. I'll dig it up and post it - makes math way easier if you're trying to get REALLY accurate.

What setup do you have? Camber would be pretty easy to get accurate, but depending on setup toe would be harder, especially if it's within tenths of a degree. I have new camber plates to go in and will be setting front toe + camber for track, and street settings using DIY string method.

[Casa de Mesa]

What setup do you have? Camber would be pretty easy to get accurate, but depending on setup toe would be harder, especially if it's within tenths of a degree. I have new camber plates to go in and will be setting front toe + camber for track, and street settings using DIY string method.

Mine is a street setup on this car. It's a moderately aggressive alignment for the street, but I've had excellent wear and do drive it hard.

Camber front: -2.0
Camber rear: -1.8125
Caster front: 7.1
Total Toe front: -0.1172 degrees <-- 0.5mm per side toe in
Total Toe rear: -0.2344 degrees <-- 1.0mm per side toe in

I measure toe at the outermost edge of the wheel face, convert into degrees. You start to reach the point of diminishing returns trying to measure 0.5mm - you need to use thin, brightly colored fishing line (and a darker scientific ruler) if the string alignment setup you get uses thicker string. Otherwise, the strings on some kits are too thick and measuring to anything below 1.0mm accurately get challenging.

[timmo]

Mine is a street setup on this car. It's a moderately aggressive alignment for the street, but I've had excellent wear and do drive it hard.

Camber front: -2.0
Camber rear: -1.8125
Caster front: 7.1
Total Toe front: -0.1172 degrees <-- 0.5mm per side toe in
Total Toe rear: -0.2344 degrees <-- 1.0mm per side toe in

I measure toe at the outermost edge of the wheel face, convert into degrees. You start to reach the point of diminishing returns trying to measure 0.5mm - you need to use thin, brightly colored fishing line (and a darker scientific ruler) if the string alignment setup you get uses thicker string. Otherwise, the strings on some kits are too thick and measuring to anything below 1.0mm accurately get challenging.

Thanks for the update. But geez good to know that a tenth of a degree in toe is 1.0 mm on the difference between front & rear of the rim. I'm doing it with a friend at his place since he does Ontario Time Attack, and has his own setup ready. Hoping I can get it fairly accurate!

[bigjae46]

Lots of negative camber by itself won't cause wear like that. Its the negative camber AND toe. Toe causes the tire to scrub and generates heat which results in more wear. If you add camber, you get more heat and wear on the inner edge of the tire vs it being spread across a wider section with less negative camber.

The toe is out. Doesn't take much at -3 negative camber.