“Switch Chain Grip“....stalling out at lights

[liam821]

Just wanted to update this thread. I FINALLY got the cruise switch/clutch switch part number 61318363710. My first one was damaged on delivery, the 2nd was lost in the mail, but the 3rd - 6 weeks later - is finally here and works fine. Props to FCPEuro for taking good care of me. I wired it up, verified it worked via INPA, and then made the necessary coding changing to the DME so the car will work without a gear position sensor, and the "switch chain" code is finally gone! Woohoo. The car doesn't stall anymore!

So to recap:

2004 M3 SMG converted to 6MT
2000-01 clutch master cyl that doesn't have the connector for the combo cruise/clutch switch from the later models
no clutch switch (so I don't have to push in the clutch to start the car)
cruise switch #61318363710 wired to pin-20 in the DME
the normal DME (mss54hp) smg->6mt coding that is needed
=
success!

[nextelbuddy]

Just wanted to update this thread. I FINALLY got the cruise switch/clutch switch part number 61318363710. My first one was damaged on delivery, the 2nd was lost in the mail, but the 3rd - 6 weeks later - is finally here and works fine. Props to FCPEuro for taking good care of me. I wired it up, verified it worked via INPA, and then made the necessary coding changing to the DME so the car will work without a gear position sensor, and the "switch chain" code is finally gone! Woohoo. The car doesn't stall anymore!

So to recap:

2004 M3 SMG converted to 6MT
2000-01 clutch master cyl that doesn't have the connector for the combo cruise/clutch switch from the later models
no clutch switch (so I don't have to push in the clutch to start the car)
cruise switch #61318363710 wired to pin-20 in the DME
the normal DME (mss54hp) smg->6mt coding that is needed
=
success!

So you have a clutch master cylinder that does not have the little flat spot for you to snap in the magnetic clutch switch? The clutch master cylinders should have a little spot for that. I have seen other clutch master cylinders that didn't have the spot but they used a different clutch switch the mounted similar to the brake switch that had a little push in push out button, but those were non Ms that had that. The M3 is always came with the clutch master cylinder with the little snap in magnet switch.

Sounds like when you did your conversion you sourced the wrong clutch master cylinder for your swap.

So if you have the clutch master cylinder that does not have a spot to accept the magnetic clutch switch, you may have wired up the switch but how did you actually get it to register a reading if it's not mounted on the clutch master cylinder m

[liam821]

So you have a clutch master cylinder that does not have the little flat spot for you to snap in the magnetic clutch switch? The clutch master cylinders should have a little spot for that. I have seen other clutch master cylinders that didn't have the spot but they used a different clutch switch the mounted similar to the brake switch that had a little push in push out button, but those were non Ms that had that. The M3 is always came with the clutch master cylinder with the little snap in magnet switch.

Sounds like when you did your conversion you sourced the wrong clutch master cylinder for your swap.

So if you have the clutch master cylinder that does not have a spot to accept the magnetic clutch switch, you may have wired up the switch but how did you actually get it to register a reading if it's not mounted on the clutch master cylinder m

You're correct. My master cyl doesn't have the flat spot for the "snap in" magnetic clutch switch - perhaps it's for a non-m I'm not sure. Not my fault, I didn't do the conversion - the previous owner did the conversion and I bought it like that. I was going to replace the master cyl with the correct part and switch, but Terra said I could use just that sensor. Saved me $150 and not having to bleed the clutch was a win-win.

So you're right, the clutch switch (really its the cruise switch) mounts just like how the brake switch mounts. There are actually two places on the clutch support for both sensors (which are the same), one for the clutch switch, and the other for the cruise switch. The clutch switch is basically a switch so the car won't start unless you're pushing in the clutch (which I don't have), and the other "cruise switch" which the DME uses via pin 20. I don't have a clutch switch.

The cruise switch is mounted so when the clutch isn't engaged the sensor is depressed.

Here is a picture of when I was installing it, wiring is cleaned up now. . The new switch is the white one, directly to the left of the black brake switch. I used 12v/ground from the brake switch. You can see the other slot for the "start clutch switch" directly below the white switch, there is a square hole in the same bracket that holds the brake switch.



My very plain master cyl without the snap-in switch.

[nextelbuddy]

Ahhh ok so you didn't get the magnetic switch you got the white push button style switch which is the right one for that style clutch master cylinder lol. Understood.

[liam821]

Ahhh ok so you didn't get the magnetic switch you got the white push button style switch which is the right one for that style clutch master cylinder lol. Understood.

Yep! You got it. Saved me $150 and not having to bleed the clutch!

[terra]

So you have a clutch master cylinder that does not have the little flat spot for you to snap in the magnetic clutch switch? The clutch master cylinders should have a little spot for that. I have seen other clutch master cylinders that didn't have the spot but they used a different clutch switch the mounted similar to the brake switch that had a little push in push out button, but those were non Ms that had that. The M3 is always came with the clutch master cylinder with the little snap in magnet switch.

Sounds like when you did your conversion you sourced the wrong clutch master cylinder for your swap.

So if you have the clutch master cylinder that does not have a spot to accept the magnetic clutch switch, you may have wired up the switch but how did you actually get it to register a reading if it's not mounted on the clutch master cylinder m

2001 M3’s had that style switch. DME doesn’t know the difference either way

[Mspir3d]

Actually to be clear, BMW fucked up on this. That superseded part is the non-M switch, it won't work on an E46 M3. If you can still find it, 61319122700 is the one you want. Otherwise 61319122701 would likely work (this is the Euro M3 switch), but it's unclear what's different compared to the US switch asides for the color. My suspicion would be the green one doesn't have a functioning startlock circuit.

Worst case you could use the 2001 style switches as mentioned above.

I believe it must not have the startlock circuit. I put the green one in the car and it wouldn’t start. My guess is you’d have to code it out then?

[terra]

I believe it must not have the startlock circuit. I put the green one in the car and it wouldn’t start. My guess is you’d have to code it out then?

Yeah I'd just code it out in NCS.

[antknee]

Ugh. A year later the problem reared it ugly head (even after the new brown switch). Getting the same “switch chain grip” plus “control unit self-test, torque manager monitoring”.

stalls in neutral at a light, in gear with the clutch in its fine

After a quick google too, seems like there isn’t a definitive answer for a solution.

[FBloggs]

I had a no crank/no start issue that was caused by a failure of the now NLA brown switch.
I have been making do with the non-M switch which means no cruise control.
Recently I had a stalling condition at traffic lights and found on a Schwaben reader, code 50 DME: switch chain, frictional connection.
This is the intake cam sensor failing.
Just something for you to bear in mind.

[mrgizmo04]

This is the intake cam sensor failing.
Just something for you to bear in mind.

This is interesting for that specific code. I've heard that this code 50 switch chain blah is usually caused by either gear position sensor in tranny or the clutch switch.

My car (original 6mt) has this code pop up intermittently, but more prominent after a track session. It kind of wants to stall and max idle is 100-200 rpm lower than normal so it sounds like it's struggling to keep running. Sometimes restarting the car, or clearing the code and restarting the car resets everything back to normal, until the next random time it decides to act up.

I've tested both the GPS and the clutch switch and they seemed fine, but I still swapped them out for good working ones (at the time, I got a working brown clutch switch). The code is still showing up randomly...

I'll check out the intake cam sensor. My sensor is rather recent and was genuine, but who knows. I've also pinched the wire for it once when I installed the valve cover on after a valve adjustment (didnt see it get caught there), so could be a wire/connector issue since it's so intermittent.

Unfortunately the intake side sensor is a lot tougher to get to than exhaust, but oh well, something to do .

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[jet_dogg]

Ugh. A year later the problem reared it ugly head (even after the new brown switch). Getting the same “switch chain grip” plus “control unit self-test, torque manager monitoring”.

stalls in neutral at a light, in gear with the clutch in its fine

After a quick google too, seems like there isn’t a definitive answer for a solution.

FWIW, a failing crank sensor will cause stalling at idle as well.

[lemoose]

Are you absolutely 100% sure your dme programming is correct? I had the same problem after my swap and the issue was that my dme wasnt flashed correctly. Depending on whether or not youre using the gear position switch or bypassing it, your dme needs to be flashed accordingly.

[jet_dogg]

His car is factory 6mt.

[mrgizmo04]

Who is responding to whom at this point? Lol.

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