Opened engine to find my worst nightmare... advice needed.

[Dash1]

That looks like more damage than just pitting from a blown head gasket. Those look like actual nicks from impacts by a foreign object.

[heinzboehmer]

This might be a silly question but how would you guys recommend removing my block? The head and the engine lifting bracket is off the car...

I was thinking just pull the front end off and slide it out with the trans right? Since there is no support bracket up top should I like... tie ratchet traps around my engine and into the crane hook?

There's a bracket to lift from at the back of the block. You could make a bracket for the front using some metal and a couple head bolts. Or you could also just put the water pump, thermostat housing, and front bracket back on.

If I ever need to pull my engine there's no way I'm doing it without pulling the front end off. It'll take maybe three hours total to take the front end off and put it back on, but it'll also give you a ton more room and possibly save you a lot of headaches.

[Flat-Six]

You guys are crazy lmao.

Ha! How can it be crazy for recommending that you spend some time analyzing your damage by a professional before going out and just buying a new block?

[SteelGreyM]

Ha! How can it be crazy for recommending that you spend some time analyzing your damage by a professional before going out and just buying a new block?

It was a joke man. Meaning like this might actually work.

honeslty. I think it’s high enough I may be able to get away with it. I’m pulling the block either way. So I’m gonna bring it to a machine shop and get their opinion. I genuinely appreciate the input brotha. Sorry it came off that way :/

[SteelGreyM]

There's a bracket to lift from at the back of the block. You could make a bracket for the front using some metal and a couple head bolts. Or you could also just put the water pump, thermostat housing, and front bracket back on.

If I ever need to pull my engine there's no way I'm doing it without pulling the front end off. It'll take maybe three hours total to take the front end off and put it back on, but it'll also give you a ton more room and possibly save you a lot of headaches.

didn’t know about the back bracket! I could also get a nice strap around the bell housing...

Would pulling the front end off would require messing with the AC lines and stuff? Honeslty I have no clue what I’m doing with that

[Flat-Six]

It's actually pretty easy to pull the front end apart, and allows for a much cleaner/easier removal/install. Plus, it allows you to really clean everything up. I've done this on my daughters E46, as well as other cars many times to R&R engine. It's more work, but it really makes the R&R much easier. Unless you can lay the AC components off to the side, and you may be able to I just can't remember, you will need to drain/recharge the AC. I just always drained the AC, as I don't like stuff hanging around.

Back in the 70's I had an old VW Beetle that I hot-rodded, and I had the rear "apron panel" held on by screws so I could roll a floor jack under the engine with car on the ground and just roll the engine right out the back, so I've followed similar philosophy with other cars to make it as easy as possible....

This is just my personal opinion.

[SteelGreyM]

It's actually pretty easy to pull the front end apart, and allows for a much cleaner/easier removal/install. Plus, it allows you to really clean everything up. I've done this on my daughters E46, as well as other cars many times to R&R engine. It's more work, but it really makes the R&R much easier. Unless you can lay the AC components off to the side, and you may be able to I just can't remember, you will need to drain/recharge the AC. I just always drained the AC, as I don't like stuff hanging around.

Back in the 70's I had an old VW Beetle that I hot-rodded, and I had the rear "apron panel" held on by screws so I could roll a floor jack under the engine with car on the ground and just roll the engine right out the back, so I've followed similar philosophy with other cars to make it as easy as possible....

This is just my personal opinion.

I might be able to get away with unbolting the AC condenser? from the engine and slide it out. I’ll see once I get in there. Again thanks for the help. Ill
keep this thread updated as I keep going. Today’s agenda is to take apart the head, and remove front bumper and get ready to pull engine. If it can be pulled today that’ll be a success.

as far as pulling engine the current plan is this.

-drain oil
-remove under body aluminum plate.
- unbolt exhaust at midpipe
-disconnect driveshaft from guibo
remove front end.
-disconnect misc electronics and stuff.

that’s all I got for now...

[cozmo kraemer]

I'd also recommend removing the front end. If is super simple. you basically remove the bumper, and headlights, then the radiator support removes with the AC condensor and fan. It will save many headaches.

[SteelGreyM]

I'd also recommend removing the front end. If is super simple. you basically remove the bumper, and headlights, then the radiator support removes with the AC condensor and fan. It will save many headaches.

I thought the AC lines were rigid? Or are there a few soft ones that will allow it to move around?

[Obioban]

I think there's damage that may ruin the block you haven't noticed-- it looks like the blow by from the failed head gasket has marred the space between the cylinders (where the gasket failed). Head side, also.

[Arith2]

Where are you located? I have plenty of time on my hands and just went through and engine swap recently. I'd be more than happy to help. I'm around the Orlando FL area.

Before I swapped I tore it apart and inspected everything. There is a process to determine if there's more cracks on the block but really, swapping the engine is probably going to be cheaper and easier for you. You can sell so much of your engine since it doesn't have a piston that exploded but just some shards. This is much less of a headache than if metal circulated through the oil system, go spat into the intake, and throught the engine bay. It could be much worse so don't worry. This can be fixed whether it's a new engine or a simple rebuild.

[SteelGreyM]

I think there's damage that may ruin the block you haven't noticed-- it looks like the blow by from the failed head gasket has marred the space between the cylinders (where the gasket failed). Head side, also.

I noticed that. I know bmw says zero machine work allowed on s54 but It seems people are fine with less than .3 mm of work done. Any more than that and I’ll need either a new head or block.

gonna refer to my machine shop to verify all these concerns of course.

[SteelGreyM]

Where are you located? I have plenty of time on my hands and just went through and engine swap recently. I'd be more than happy to help. I'm around the Orlando FL area.

Before I swapped I tore it apart and inspected everything. There is a process to determine if there's more cracks on the block but really, swapping the engine is probably going to be cheaper and easier for you. You can sell so much of your engine since it doesn't have a piston that exploded but just some shards. This is much less of a headache than if metal circulated through the oil system, go spat into the intake, and throught the engine bay. It could be much worse so don't worry. This can be fixed whether it's a new engine or a simple rebuild.

I appreciate it. I’m located near Chicago unfortunately so I won’t be able to see you.

im most definetly going to make a descicion after speaking with the shop. Did you go the route of pulling the front bumper?

[Arith2]

I appreciate it. I’m located near Chicago unfortunately so I won’t be able to see you.

im most definetly going to make a descicion after speaking with the shop. Did you go the route of pulling the front bumper?

Well I know there's someone on here that's local so if you need help, definitely reach out on here.

As for pulling the engine, which is inevitable at this point, I did not pull the front bumper off. The removal I did with the head removed so it was just the block coming out. That was super easy. I just screwed in some head bolts, put them through a chain, and lifted it out. Install was not a reverse of this. That was a nightmare and lead to me having to almost pick the engine up to get it to fit past the steering coupler and high side A/C port. I had to remove the windshield wipers and cowl to get enough front and back clearance but the engine was still leaning too far to the left. It sits at like 15° to 20° but the places we had it lifted caused it to tilt to around 45°. This didn't make itself known as a problem until the engine was halfway in the car. It took every ounce of strength to grab and rotate to engine with my hands for it to get around this. Like I said, just how it had gone in, and the two points we chose were not good. Check out my Unbuild Journal. I think I have that part posted with pictures.

Just for some ease on your part too, I saw .020" mentioned and thought, "Wow, that's alot because Chevy allows up to .030" but when I went to Google conversion it showed:
.020 inches = .508 millimeters
This would bring the bore to 87.5mm which is acceptable. I would fret about that. If the surface of the block is warped, that's a no go period but you can slightly bore these out. Alot of people putting JE forged internals in do this so it's not out of place for them to suggest this.

[cozmo kraemer]

I thought the AC lines were rigid? Or are there a few soft ones that will allow it to move around?

I am pretty sure you have to disconnect them anyway. It would be a pretty big pain in the ass to do the engine pull without disconnecting the AC lines. Might be possible, but I'm not sure it is worth it.