Originally posted by eacmen
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The OEM end of the VANOS supply line is a banjo fitting with some heat shielding around it. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...sy-11367837614Originally posted by ATB88 View Post
Isn't the stock line flexible/braided at the end that attaches to the VANOS pressure accumulator?
The valve cover oil return line is a similar hard pipe but the bottom (on post-facelift cars) is a braided AN-style line that goes into the oil pan: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...pe-11157832781
The photo looks like the oil return line to me.
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I'm pretty sure the VANOS line had a braided flexible section under the heat shield. Also the hard part of the oil return line is silver not blackOriginally posted by eacmen View Post
The OEM end of the VANOS supply line is a banjo fitting with some heat shielding around it. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...sy-11367837614
The valve cover oil return line is a similar hard pipe but the bottom (on post-facelift cars) is a braided AN-style line that goes into the oil pan: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...pe-11157832781
The photo looks like the oil return line to me.2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - SSV1 - HJS - Mullet Tune - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal
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Guys it's the vanos oil line. Banjo bolts top and bottom. I cut off the silver heat shield held on with a little hose clamp at the braided / accumulator end to get a look at where it connects to the hard line.
Genuine replacement is 11367837614 but I went with the RE stainless replacement from Turner.
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Last edited by Phoenix///M3; 07-11-2020, 05:24 PM.
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Learn something new every day. Never took the heat shield off.Originally posted by Phoenix///M3 View PostGuys it's the vanos oil line. Banjo bolts top and bottom. I cut off the silver heat shield held on with a little hose clamp at the braided / accumulator end to get a look at where it connects to the hard line.
Genuine replacement is 11367837614 but I went with the RE stainless replacement from Turner.
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You would think they could have just used a braided line the whole way. High pressure hard line bolted to a high reving, vibrating engine 🤔Originally posted by eacmen View Post
Learn something new every day. Never took the heat shield off.
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I was able to get mine off with no special tools. I found a good YouTube video of a guy showing three methods on an E46. One was just holding a pry bar against one of the fan bolts while leveraging against a large adjustable wrench on the big nut. Super easy.Originally posted by tone View PostShould be an easy fix! If you don't have one, I'd grab a fan tool to make the job a lot easier. There are $15 versions on Amazon that are objectively junk, but good enough to get the job done.
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Ha. Lucky you! I tried some of the YouTube methods and ended up breaking a hose clampOriginally posted by Phoenix///M3 View PostI was able to get mine off with no special tools. I found a good YouTube video of a guy showing three methods on an E46. One was just holding a pry bar against one of the fan bolts while leveraging against a large adjustable wrench on the big nut. Super easy.
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At the time, the fan tool felt like the best $15 I've ever spent!
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CPS??Originally posted by eacmen View PostOil leak that bad should be easy fo spot. Clean off the oil. Top off the oil and start it up.
Exhaust side is likely to be CPV, VCG, Timing Chain Tensioner, VANOS supply, or CPS.
Front side is likely that freeze plug on the timing chain cover, VANOS gasket (lower left bolt), front main seal.
Rear is VCG or rear main seal.
Intake side is CPS, OFGH.
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When the CPS oring goes bad it will leak more oil than you would think. But usually fails on the exhaust side, and you'll smell it on the headers. The intake side seems more resilient.Originally posted by AXDB View Post
Thanks. Diagnosing as well and considering how the crank case builds pressure. Only relief on the s54 is the tube from valve cover to airbox.
Thanks!
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I'm sure the junior engineer had proposed this, because it's easier and cheaper to make. But the senior engineer decided to have hard/braided line instead which was more expensive to make. The reason is that it's more harder to bolt down the braid line at the two locations as on the hard pipe.Originally posted by Phoenix///M3 View PostYou would think they could have just used a braided line the whole way.
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The root cause, I bet, is that there was no bolted down (or loosen bolt) at this location which allowed the pipe/bracket vibrated against the engine, leading to stress and cracked pipe.Originally posted by Phoenix///M3 View PostAnd we have a winner. Pin hole in the vanos oil line right at the mounting bracket which was also broken. You couldn't see it when I took it off but bending the line back and forth a bit exposed it.
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