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    Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
    Car might get a bit pushy with a bigger front bar, especially on staggered setup. For camber, I know guys swap top mounts left to right to gain a few degrees, plus take out the pin.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Just ran my two favorite roads back to back. And in one the car feels great. The other the front never settles and makes it kinda sketchy as your mid turn and the front finally settles. I'll look into flat ride.

    When you dropped to the 356 up front is that when you added a larger front sway bar to control the added roll the softer spring gave?

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      I am on 375 spring now and added a bigger bar (Turner on softest) when I dropped to that spring. I have not yet dropped to 336, but when I do I will probably go for medium on Turner (has 3 holes).

      Spring rate on axle + swaybar on that axle control the amount of roll the axle handles. Keeping rear as is, dropping front spring rate drastically adds grip to the front, making the car overrotate/oversteer, so you need to add a bar to tighten it up.

      Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


      Last edited by mrgizmo04; 08-13-2020, 10:10 PM.
      Youtube DIYs and more

      All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

      PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

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        Originally posted by Tones View Post
        Just ran my two favorite roads back to back. And in one the car feels great. The other the front never settles and makes it kinda sketchy as your mid turn and the front finally settles. I'll look into flat ride.

        When you dropped to the 356 up front is that when you added a larger front sway bar to control the added roll the softer spring gave?

        Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

        Tapatalk has issues quoting (among many others ). See above.

        Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

        Youtube DIYs and more

        All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

        PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

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          KWV3 Minimum Ohlins RT Bilstein Clubsport. All depends on your use


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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            A little late to the discussion but, I can highly recommend TCK/Koni DA Front/SA Rear for the street with 450 fronts/500 rears. I also have Turner front bar set to med, SDW RTABs and even CMP Solid subframe bushings and it's awesome for street & track. Love it , love it

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              Originally posted by LeeForst View Post
              A little late to the discussion but, I can highly recommend TCK/Koni DA Front/SA Rear for the street with 450 fronts/500 rears. I also have Turner front bar set to med, SDW RTABs and even CMP Solid subframe bushings and it's awesome for street & track. Love it , love it
              I looked into your recommended setup and the TCK DA front and SA rear setup is quite reasonable in price for $1500, however TCK's website feels so out of date. I can't even add the front individual TCK DA's into my cart. Also, their full kits now force you to buy everything where as before, one had options not to use their top hats.

              Curious how would Koni's warranty handle TCKs. Anyone ever warranty a TCK shock?
              Last edited by Epsilon; 08-14-2020, 10:55 AM.

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                Isn't it usually SA front, DA rear since the rear on BMWs is trickier?

                TCK's website is straight out of the early 2000s but you could either give them a call or go via one of their dealers. TCK SA rear shocks for E46 cars are just standard off the shelf parts (p/n 8241-1200sport).
                '03.5 M3 SMG Coupe - Jet Black / Black

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                  Update: It was sort of a dumb question, but I do have an answer. Both the S/A and D/A are capable of handling the spring range offered with them in their entirety.

                  While we're briefly on the topic of TCK's. Does anybody know if their shock valving on the S/A's and D/A's are capable of working with their entire VVS spring selection? Front: 300#-650# Rear:400#-700#

                  Last edited by j0nwall; 08-17-2020, 10:11 PM.

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                    I've had or tried almost everything (owned six E46 M3's)...

                    PSS10: one of the best all-around compromise for the money. I've owned a few sets and was never disappointed. They will go conservatively lower than stock, great quality/warranty, and good ride comfort. Digressive valving will make them feel a little more racey but not harsh. Good spring rates as they are pseudo flat ride although not quite..

                    KW V3: currently on 1/2 of my E46's and they are underwhelming... not the worst setup but there is better for the money. Won't even consider V1/V2 - sorry but they are poser setups IMO. Progressive springs give them the illusion they are good on the street but the damper itself just doesn't live up to the hype.

                    Ohlins R&T: great for what they are, but not a no-brainer for everyone. NOT A COMFORT-FOCUSED SETUP; Just really good at smoothing out small stuff. Nicely built kit. Currently have them on my other E46. They're basically a more serious version of PSS10 (dual duty, hp monotube, sensitiive to height, non-race style springs, single adjustable).

                    TCK: still is and will probably always be THE go-to setup. The most comfortable aftermarket coilovers without a doubt. Pricey for a Koni-based kit but there are arguably no downsides. I've yet to do better for a street car. SA are great if you're on a budget, DA are even better if you're not.

                    MCS/JRZ/Moton/Etc: do not be sold into thinking a premium damper will ride 'better' on the street. Very expensive and you will be dumbing them down to ride like one of the aforementioned. They are leagues above in terms of outright performance, but if you do not track the car more than 50% of the time, save your money.
                    Originally posted by Obioban View Post

                    Agreed on all counts!
                    This is helpful. Thanks. Mind sharing why you went with Ohlins vs. TCK?

                    Jesse
                    Old, not obsolete.

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                      Originally posted by D-O View Post

                      This is helpful. Thanks. Mind sharing why you went with Ohlins vs. TCK?

                      Jesse
                      With a lot of effort and some fabrication, the Ohlins can be made to be a great dual purpose (street/track) setup. The TCKs are much better out of the box and in terms of... ease of getting them set up and working properly. It's pretty hard to install TCKs and not have them be great.

                      ... but the Ohlins are coming off my car this winter...

                      2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
                      2012 LMB/Black 128i
                      2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan

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                        Originally posted by Obioban View Post

                        With a lot of effort and some fabrication, the Ohlins can be made to be a great dual purpose (street/track) setup. The TCKs are much better out of the box and in terms of... ease of getting them set up and working properly. It's pretty hard to install TCKs and not have them be great.

                        ... but the Ohlins are coming off my car this winter...
                        Many thanks. My car is street only. Would you feel that the TCK SA kit is sufficient for a street only car, or is the DA kit worth the extra on the street?

                        Jesse
                        Old, not obsolete.

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by D-O View Post

                          Many thanks. My car is street only. Would you feel that the TCK SA kit is sufficient for a street only car, or is the DA kit worth the extra on the street?

                          Jesse
                          TCK DAs have no value over SAs on the street.

                          If you're street only (and going to stay that way), you can use stock e36 M3 top hats to avoid camber plates.

                          2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
                          2012 LMB/Black 128i
                          2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan

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                            Thanks again.

                            Jesse
                            Old, not obsolete.

                            Comment


                              No one mentioned ST XTA's. Great value coilover for double duty, needs some work (adjustable endlinks, rear springs) for a decent track setup. Comes with plates, decent valving for double duty, linear front springs 450lb/in (unlike KW's) and progressive rear ~479lb/in (source: ST), fixed endlinks.

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                                Originally posted by jk715 View Post
                                No one mentioned ST XTA's. Great value coilover for double duty, needs some work (adjustable endlinks, rear springs) for a decent track setup. Comes with plates, decent valving for double duty, linear front springs 450lb/in (unlike KW's) and progressive rear ~479lb/in (source: ST), fixed endlinks.
                                They weren't forgotten... they're just in the category of "worse but more expensive than springs/shocks" (assuming shocks are Konis or Bilsteins), so not really any reason to mention them.

                                2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
                                2012 LMB/Black 128i
                                2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan

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