Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Coilover Recommendation

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #91
    Stock Ohlins rates come too pitchy, agree with above it is not a damping issue.

    Try flat ride, but other than swapping spring rates you also need to add a stiffer bar to control roll.

    I went to 375f, 670r, car feels a lot better, but I am going to put in 336f next.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

    Youtube DIYs and more

    All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

    PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

    Comment


      #92
      Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
      Stock Ohlins rates come too pitchy, agree with above it is not a damping issue.

      Try flat ride, but other than swapping spring rates you also need to add a stiffer bar to control roll.

      I went to 375f, 670r, car feels a lot better, but I am going to put in 336f next.

      Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
      What front sway bar did you go with? Is your car mostly a DD?
      '03.5 M3 SMG Coupe - Jet Black / Black

      Comment


        #93
        OP, if you decide on a coilover to run I'll help you get there by buying those Dinan springs off you. 💰💰
        2002 M3 Coupe | 1988 320i Touring

        Comment


          #94
          Originally posted by r4dr View Post

          What front sway bar did you go with? Is your car mostly a DD?
          I'm on turner front bar. Car is dual duty and has been seeing a lot more canyon and track time, while still hauling the baby and groceries when needed.

          Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

          Youtube DIYs and more

          All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

          PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

          Comment


            #95
            Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
            I'm on turner front bar. Car is dual duty and has been seeing a lot more canyon and track time, while still hauling the baby and groceries when needed.

            Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
            Which RSMs are you running again Giz?


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

            Comment


              #96
              Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
              I've got BCs with the Swift springs, the setup came installed on the car when I bought it. Still have the stock components thankfully though.
              Are BCs really the trash people claim? The car rides quite nice, isn't too harsh and tracks great around corners.
              I dont have much of anything to compare it with as I have never been in another E46 M3 w/ coilovers...
              I have the same situation where the car came with BC set up. I don’t have anything to compare it to but would love to replace them.
              Only issue I’ve had was front left end link was gone so I replaced them with tms adjustable end links.


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

              Comment


                #97
                Originally posted by Exclusivs View Post

                Which RSMs are you running again Giz?


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                I'm on GC street rsm and GC street camber plate in front.

                Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

                Youtube DIYs and more

                All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                Comment


                  #98
                  ^Cool thanks Giz


                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                  Comment


                    #99
                    I’ve ran Koni Yellow and Dinan springs on two different cars. Much better than stock and for the money, you can’t beat it. Of course that’s my opinion and there are as many opinions as there are people posting in this thread.

                    Originally posted by Phoenix///M3 View Post
                    General consensus on Koni yellow / Dinan vs. Koni yellow / Eibach? I currently run the latter with GC street plates.

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
                      Stock Ohlins rates come too pitchy, agree with above it is not a damping issue.

                      Try flat ride, but other than swapping spring rates you also need to add a stiffer bar to control roll.

                      I went to 375f, 670r, car feels a lot better, but I am going to put in 336f next.

                      Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
                      I was looking into flat ride than stopped figuring it out. 90% of the time they are great. Are you running the stock spring sizes or switched to the 2.5 di?

                      What changed would you say with the new spring set up.

                      Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by Tones View Post
                        I was looking into flat ride than stopped figuring it out. 90% of the time they are great. Are you running the stock spring sizes or switched to the 2.5 di?

                        What changed would you say with the new spring set up.

                        Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
                        Since I track and run camber plates, and wanted more room to stuff wider tires I went with 65mm ID (2.56").

                        I just ran the setup at Laguna yesterday after making adjustments with a spacer and unloading some of the spring preload. Car feels more stable and easier to control. You do have to get used to a bit more dive, but if you are not running 1" off the ground with a huge splitter, you don't need to worry about it .

                        Highway/city driving, the car feels in harmony settling over bumps. You don't have the jittery ride where the front springs are so stiff (high frequency) that you are running a pitch setup and have the front settle disjointly before the rear does.

                        You need to try it, I don't think everyone is a believer, but I think the few guys who have tried to get flat ride on this/old forum love it.

                        If you are running proper racecar with serious aero, this is where I might deviate a bit from flat ride. At super low ride height with a long nose (splitter) with slicks and grippy pads you generate a tonne of gs to force the car into a dive, so you need the front frequencies super high, so that the splitter doesnt break off. But now, typing out this last part, I guess flat ride would just tell you to jack up your rear frequencies.

                        Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


                        Last edited by mrgizmo04; 08-11-2020, 09:46 PM.
                        Youtube DIYs and more

                        All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                        PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
                          Since I track and run camber plates, and wanted more room to stuff wider tires I went with 65mm ID (2.56").

                          I just ran the setup at Laguna yesterday after making adjustments with a spacer and unloading some of the spring preload. Car feels more stable and easier to control. You do have to get used to a bit more dive, but if you are not running 1" off the ground with a huge splitter, you don't need to worry about it .

                          Highway/city driving, the car feels in harmony settling over bumps. You don't have the jittery ride where the front springs are so stiff (high frequency) that you are running a pitch setup and have the front settle disjointly before the rear does.

                          You need to try it, I don't think everyone is a believer, but I think the few guys who have tried to get flat ride on this/old forum love it.

                          If you are running proper racecar with serious aero, this is where I might deviate a bit from flat ride. At super low ride height with a long nose (splitter) with slicks and grippy pads you generate a tonne of gs to force the car into a dive, so you need the front frequencies super high, so that the splitter doesnt break off. But now, typing out this last part, I guess flat ride would just tell you to jack up your rear frequencies.

                          Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

                          Where I live there are only a few mountian roads and no real fun hpde. Ive been really happy with them so far other than those few roads. I would like to get a sway bar as the roll that comes in just past the turn in is holding the car back. Also need to get camber plates so I can get more than - 1 up front.

                          Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by Tones View Post
                            Where I live there are only a few mountian roads and no real fun hpde. Ive been really happy with them so far other than those few roads. I would like to get a sway bar as the roll that comes in just past the turn in is holding the car back. Also need to get camber plates so I can get more than - 1 up front.

                            Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
                            Car might get a bit pushy with a bigger front bar, especially on staggered setup. For camber, I know guys swap top mounts left to right to gain a few degrees, plus take out the pin.

                            Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

                            Youtube DIYs and more

                            All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                            PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                            Comment


                              Recently installed the Gen 7 Fortune Auto 500s. 6k/12k (336/672) Swift springs with Hotchkis front bar. So far I'm liking them better than better than Dinan springs I was on. Corners much flatter and is composed and not harsh on the street.
                              2001 TiAG M3 - 6mt Coupe, Anthracite Impuse - SOLD

                              2001 TiAG M3 - 6mt Coupe, Black Nappa Leather
                              Karbonius | Supersprint | Cat Cams | Beisan | Fikse Wheels | Mile End Composites | AST 5200 | Hotchkis | Brembo | Recaro | Rouge SMF | RTD | Yellow Tag Rack | HTE Performance

                              Comment


                                Kw v3 FTW! First post back here!!

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X