Vincebar vs. CMP Topside Reinforcement

[Sprp85]

I had my full CMP top kit done by Matt @Coyne up in PA.

While CMP does not give you the stealth look, you dont really lose out on the trunk capacity. The bar does protrude from the floor by about an inch but other than the lost 1 inch height, the car still carries quite a lot of costco stuff when needed.

CMP, as long as its cleanly painted and carpeted nicely, it actually looks pretty good.

But either way, I would go with whichever is cheaper.

[Syfon]

I have the full CMP kit in mine. Plates, topside + frontside, 6 point race brace & solid aluminium subframe mounts.

The rear end isn't going anywhere!

I've lost a fair bit of boot space given I have the 6 point brace, however mine is a weekend toy, so boot (trunk for you yanks :P) space is not important for me.

I had the whole kit installed January 2019 and just got around to fitting the boot trim/carpet a few nights ago. With everything in place it looks quite nice tbh! Plus, the solid aluminium subframe mounts are perfect. I'm running oem rubber diff mounts so the nvh increase from the solid subframe mounts is negligible.

[aapilcher]

I had the CMP topside front and rear installed last fall, which I chose simply because it seemed beefier and I wanted a visual reminder where all my money went.

Here’s another alternative that I would consider, were I to do it over again:

https://www.s-m-eng.com

[Tones]

For underside plates, I believe Redish Motorsports out of the UK offer the best solution; based on their experience, I believe they said that ideally you would still want to do weld-in plates as the plug welds help coalesce the numerous RACP layers into a much sturdier singular structure. Doing the epoxy on the underside plates only bonds them to the outermost layer. Some may argue that the epoxy method reduces the likelihood of corrosion; welding, if done properly, should last a VERY long time, especially if your car is gonna be in the hot and dry southwestern states. Additionally, for most shops this is a tried and true method as they've been doing this for years now with plenty of experience. Only until recently have some started venturing into using epoxies for adhesion of automotive sheet metals.

Wait are we back to adehisve epoxy for the plates is okay? I'm out here in rural Hawaii and I don't trust any ones Craftmanship to be honest. Everyone just phones everything in here. So epoxy be great and I can do it my self.

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[ZHPizza]

Since Google is leaving me empty handed: where is the Vincebar actually available/for sale?

Oh I have a full epoxy/rivet in kit in my garage that I'm not going to use (bar, front cups, rivets, epoxy, seam sealer, drill bits, hole saw, tap, etc). Been meaning to replace the drill bit that I broke to complete the kit again and list it for sale.

Note that I didn't not install it because I don't believe in it - I think the Vince kit is undoubtedly the best solution for those that want to maintain a completely normal trunk and/or don't want to mess with welding. I actually used it as a reference to make my own rivet/epoxy-in brackets that also work with the x brace from SMG Engineering. Shit got weird in my garage over the past few months.

[LSBNick]

Oh I have a full epoxy/rivet in kit in my garage that I'm not going to use (bar, front cups, rivets, epoxy, seam sealer, drill bits, hole saw, tap, etc). Been meaning to replace the drill bit that I broke to complete the kit again and list it for sale.

Note that I didn't not install it because I don't believe in it - I think the Vince kit is undoubtedly the best solution for those that want to maintain a completely normal trunk and/or don't want to mess with welding. I actually used it as a reference to make my own rivet/epoxy-in brackets that also work with the x brace from SMG Engineering. Shit got weird in my garage over the past few months.

Lmk when you’re ready to sell it please!

[LeeForst]

I have a bunch of Araldite 2014 50ml brand new cartridges to sell anyone for less than I paid (have to look an see what that was)

[nagholdoian]

Currently doing the entire CMP kit at the moment on my M3. Couldn't be happier with the fit and finish as well as the remote support Cayn, the owner, has given me throughout the process. Going with either option will probably be fine. Regardless, I would say read through CMPs technical articles and repair those mentioned areas too while you're doing the subframe. I have a ton of photos of cracks and broken spot welds that were hiding behind the seam sealer and wouldn't know about them otherwise.

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[Johnvu]

I went with the Epoxy/Rivet Vincebar method and I couldn't be happier! Everything went back to stock appearance but now the rear end feels rock solid.

Either solution will work and it seems like more personal preference at this point.

[LSBNick]

I went with the Epoxy/Rivet Vincebar method and I couldn't be happier! Everything went back to stock appearance but now the rear end feels rock solid.

Either solution will work and it seems like more personal preference at this point.

Did you do this yourself or have a shop do it for you?

[enjoy_m3]

I just finished my vincebar rivet kit. I had some failed spot welds so I had a welder fix spot welds, stitch weld the rear wheel well, and the racp on the trunk side as well as the joining panels on the bottom of the seat.
I put akg solid bushings. Just drove it this week, no noticeable nvh but the rear end feels a lot more rigid, kinda feels like I added a cage without it actually being there, lol. I documented some of it on my IG: enjoy_m3 if you wanted to see how it looks.

I did it myself with the exception of the welder I hired. You can do it yourself, just have the tools ready and it's worth having a quick jack if you plan to do it.

[nuc1]

Wait are we back to adehisve epoxy for the plates is okay? I'm out here in rural Hawaii and I don't trust any ones Craftmanship to be honest. Everyone just phones everything in here. So epoxy be great and I can do it my self.

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I did plates w/ epoxy and foamed both sides w/ BMW foam back in 2012/13 (can't remember exactly). I had my neighbor (underwater welder and dive shop owner) spot drill and weld the one crack I had. Cleaned up real good, did the epoxy and sealed. Then added the foam. Was under my car last week and no issues noted. I have a rivet/epoxy Vince bar kit sitting in the garage; haven't had the time to actually do it yet.

Mike

[timmo]

Did you do this yourself or have a shop do it for you?

If you do DIY this, do your best to cover as much of the interior as you can. I had a few old towels laying around but the cutting and grinding has pitted the inside of my windshield, and I have small craters in my headliner.

It's not too bad to do if you're handy with other DIY work on your car, I did it with a friend over a long weekend.

[Johnvu]

Did you do this yourself or have a shop do it for you?

I did it myself in my garage. I used a bunch of images from Vince's facebook and other's that have done this to guide me through the process. As timmo said above, make sure you cover the interior of the car before grinding and whatnot.

I used some moving blankets from Harbor freight to make sure everything was properly covered while doing the grinding. The last thing I wanted was ruined interior. Here are some images throughout the process:

Bar Epoxied and Riveted in place. **One huge suggestion is to get a pneumatic or assisted rivet gun. I almost crapped my pants getting those larger side rivets in place lol.


This was when I was spraying all of the exposed areas with the Steel Grey matching paint. However, I used these types of moving blankets to cover my interior during grinding as well.


What it looked like after reinstalling the interior pieces. I love that it is back to stock and not noticeable!

[Tones]

I did it myself in my garage. I used a bunch of images from Vince's facebook and other's that have done this to guide me through the process. As timmo said above, make sure you cover the interior of the car before grinding and whatnot.

I used some moving blankets from Harbor freight to make sure everything was properly covered while doing the grinding. The last thing I wanted was ruined interior. Here are some images throughout the process:

Bar Epoxied and Riveted in place. **One huge suggestion is to get a pneumatic or assisted rivet gun. I almost crapped my pants getting those larger side rivets in place lol.


This was when I was spraying all of the exposed areas with the Steel Grey matching paint. However, I used these types of moving blankets to cover my interior during grinding as well.


What it looked like after reinstalling the interior pieces. I love that it is back to stock and not noticeable!

What's vinces face book

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