Tuned! 332whp! My Engine Build - Cams, Airbox, LTW Flyhweel & more :)

[Syfon]

Thanks for the info T3amfish. I'm already all over it like a rash. I will not be installing the airbox I have. Rather I will wait until I receive the new variant with carbon fibre trumpets.

Cheers

[T3amfish]

Thanks for the info T3amfish. I'm already all over it like a rash. I will not be installing the airbox I have. Rather I will wait until I receive the new variant with carbon fibre trumpets.

Cheers

k good, i too rebuilt my motor from the ground up.. i know what its like to spend a long time, money, getting these motors ready, i would hate to see it destroyed by something like that..

[Syfon]

k good, i too rebuilt my motor from the ground up.. i know what its like to spend a long time, money, getting these motors ready, i would hate to see it destroyed by something like that..

Absolutely. 100% agree!

[Syfon]

After a long couple days, the motor is timed, splined shafts correctly installed, vanos installed and most ancillaries attached!

It was a steep learning curve installing the splined shafts and vanos; we did it 5 times before everything was correct!

I'm aiming to get the engine/trans in the car weekend after next.

There's still a heap of other things to do in the meantime. Enjoy some pics

[eacmen]

Wow certainly coming together. Great work.

[Cubieman]

After a long couple days, the motor is timed, splined shafts correctly installed, vanos installed and most ancillaries attached!

It was a steep learning curve installing the splined shafts and vanos; we did it 5 times before everything was correct!

I'm aiming to get the engine/trans in the car weekend after next.

There's still a heap of other things to do in the meantime. Enjoy some pics

Very nice work. I had a ton of issues installing the Vanos as well, namely timing. I finally just re-adjusted with the vanos still on the head and hope all is well.
Now I just have to wait for a replacement for my warped valve cover.
Great pictures, and nice paint/polish.

[Syfon]

Very nice work. I had a ton of issues installing the Vanos as well, namely timing. I finally just re-adjusted with the vanos still on the head and hope all is well.
Now I just have to wait for a replacement for my warped valve cover.
Great pictures, and nice paint/polish.

Yeah I was following your install and saw the issues. I read the threads re timing and vanos.

Mine revolved around installation of the splined shafts to the hubs and ensuring they lined up. I found it quite complicated to follow the procedure re tightening the hub bolts hand tight, then tightening two opposing bolts then backing them off a 1/4 turn in order to pre-load the compression spring. I screwed this up a few times and couldn't get the splined shafts to slide in smoothly as they should. Eventually figured it out!

How's your build coming along? Motor back in yet?

[Syfon]

in the vids he says his latest cams were polished...

ADS

On this note quickly, my cams are most definitely polished

[Cubieman]

Yeah I was following your install and saw the issues. I read the threads re timing and vanos.

Mine revolved around installation of the splined shafts to the hubs and ensuring they lined up. I found it quite complicated to follow the procedure re tightening the hub bolts hand tight, then tightening two opposing bolts then backing them off a 1/4 turn in order to pre-load the compression spring. I screwed this up a few times and couldn't get the splined shafts to slide in smoothly as they should. Eventually figured it out!

How's your build coming along? Motor back in yet?

I see, some of this stuff simply takes doing it a few times to fully understand stand it, or figure out the best way to do it correctly and more easily. I suppose that's about the same with anything though.

My motor never came out, but this is the longest my car has sat since I bought it, 12" of snow on the ground currently so it doesn't make me feel as bad.

To bad about the warped valve cover as I was just about to buy a Techangle torque wrench. That will have to wait.
Good luck man, making It look easy.

[stash1]

Coming together nicely and looking forward to seeing you finally getting it up and running!

[Syfon]

I see, some of this stuff simply takes doing it a few times to fully understand stand it, or figure out the best way to do it correctly and more easily. I suppose that's about the same with anything though.

My motor never came out, but this is the longest my car has sat since I bought it, 12" of snow on the ground currently so it doesn't make me feel as bad.

To bad about the warped valve cover as I was just about to buy a Techangle torque wrench. That will have to wait.
Good luck man, making It look easy.

100% agree. While I consider myself reasonably adept at performing mechanical maintenance and repairs, I really did not understand how the vvt system in these motors worked. Even after watching a few videos and reading some guides, it still didn't make sense. But once I began assembling everything and seeing how the spined shafts work with the hubs and vanos and cams, it all made sense. Very interesting to see and truly understand how this system works!

Same here; mine has been off the road since July 2019. I'm itching to drive it!

All I can say for anyone doing something similar; take your time and follow every step slowly and precisely!

[sapote]

I found it quite complicated to follow the procedure re tightening the hub bolts hand tight, then tightening two opposing bolts then backing them off a 1/4 turn in order to pre-load the compression spring. I screwed this up a few times and couldn't get the splined shafts to slide in smoothly as they should.

Did you have the spline shafts threaded to the pistons before trying to install them into the hubs? This is the hard way and I don't see the benefit doing so; the shafts should be installed into the hubs first and pretension the hub bolts, then the vanos threaded to the shafts.

[sapote]

Head went on pretty easy. Was an interested experience torqueing the head bolts per the newtis article.

Crank was set to TDC prior to head going on. Cams have been set to the approximate TDC positions for cylinder 1.

Torqueing the head bolts with engine outside is much easier than when I did this with engine in the car at a slanted angle, especially those closer to the firewall. To avoid the Torx socket jump off the bolt head and ruin it, I used rope looping around the cams to hold the wrench/socket-extension down tight. It's a very time consuming process but needs to be done properly. 30Nm + 90 + 90 is a lot of rope tightening and loosening for each bolt for the last 2 steps.

It is better to set the crank at 30 deg BTD to have all pistons lower before installing the head with cams installed (with opened valves).

[sapote]

As far as I understand, some early s54 cams were a hollow design and had a 4.5bar pressure relief valve fitted just behind where the vanos shaft moves into the cam. These valves would open at ~4.5bar and provide oil to lubricate the vanos radial bearings (someone please correct me if I'm wrong!).

These valves open to release excess oil pressure back to the oil pan (not for lubing the spline shaft bearings). The reason behind this is to avoid having higher oil pressure opposing the VANOS pistons motion during cam timing advancing. The radial bearings are lubed as soon as engine running, not just only when oil > 4.5 bar.

[sapote]

The bores were only honed/scuffed to allow new oe spec rings to bed in. There was no visible signs of bore wear prior to machining.

These cylinder bores were coated/treated with hard material. I would not hone/scuff the original valuable honed lines if they are in such good condition. Modern engines have the new machined sharp peak honed lines polished to a plateau before assemble. In the old days the new sharp peak honed lines required break-in and this process worn down the sharp corners of the rings, no good.