What NON-coilover suspension do you prefer

[Obioban]

Interesting. Your setup is giving me the idea of running 300 lb 6" XT springs up front on Ohlins for street duty, and keeping the stock 630 lb springs in the back.

I don't think the 300lb 6" springs will cut it, if you're not considerably lighter than stock. They'll compress ~2.8" under static load, which only leaves 1.26" of useable stroke in the spring. If you're 60% bump travel, minus the portion of the bump stop you'll never actually be in, you'd be using ~2" of bump travel beyond static load-- which would put you out of the useable range of the spring (4.8" total spring compression vs 4.06" allowable).

My setup is just on the yes side of being in range for the springs, and my car is 300 lbs lighter than stock, the springs I used are stiffer (less static spring compression), and the stiffer springs have more useable travel.

If you're not concerned about the tire clearance with less aggressive offsets, you could get a Vogland or Swift 8" long 300 lb spring and be good to go.

edit: vogtland has a 7.5" spring that has 4.92" of useable travel. If you have a camber plate that mounts the spring higher, that might be able to get just above the tire.

https://www.vogtland-na.com/media/uploads_file/2018/04/16/p1cb89ae0r5m110a21jt31lgtf8d4.pdf

[jet_dogg]

I never understand the terminology "coilover". The front being a strut is inherently a coilover, and the rear is not designed to be a coilover - you should really reinforce the RSM if you do a true coilover. Most people just run adjustable spring mounts and there is no real downside...

Coilover literally means coil over shock aka threaded shock body so you are correct.

[r4dr]

I don't think the 300lb 6" springs will cut it, if you're not considerably lighter than stock. They'll compress ~2.8" under static load, which only leaves 1.26" of useable stroke in the spring. If you're 60% bump travel, minus the portion of the bump stop you'll never actually be in, you'd be using ~2" of bump travel beyond static load-- which would put you out of the useable range of the spring (4.8" total spring compression vs 4.06" allowable).

My setup is just on the yes side of being in range for the springs, and my car is 300 lbs lighter than stock, the springs I used are stiffer (less static spring compression), and the stiffer springs have more useable travel.

If you're not concerned about the tire clearance with less aggressive offsets, you could get a Vogland or Swift 8" long 300 lb spring and be good to go.

edit: vogtland has a 7.5" spring that has 4.92" of useable travel. If you have a camber plate that mounts the spring higher, that might be able to get just above the tire.
https://www.vogtland-na.com/media/up...t31lgtf8d4.pdf

This is probably a stupid, but is it a matter of trial and error once you do the napkin math to get close enough? Assuming no one has done the same setup before?

[Obioban]

This is probably a stupid, but is it a matter of trial and error once you do the napkin math to get close enough? Assuming no one has done the same setup before?

If you knew the exact spring perch location on various camber plates you could calculate it exactly… but I haven’t seen that listed out ever.

[Mayan-Viking]

This has been a great thread; very informative for us (me) less familiar with the nuances of the chassis/suspension dynamics if the E46. Thanks to everyone who has helped put this together thus far.

Ian, ~5 years ago you helped me diagnose a voltage issue on my E39 M5 that plagued me every night for months. I’m sure you won’t remember but thank you again for the help.

The consensus seems to prove that both Eibach and Dinan are the preferred springs to use assuming you want to replace springs only and keep favorable handling characteristics. Which I do. My car currently sits on Tein springs. I just had the suspension gone through and the shop installed Bilstein B4s when they replaced the SAs. I think I would like to move to Dinan springs.

Hopefully some of the more seasoned folks can help me understand if the current SAs will work with Dinan springs. Heck, do they even work with the Tein springs for that matter? I guess I’m trying to prevent replacing SAs if I can avoid it, seeing as how they are brand new and all…

Thanks everyone. Glad to see this group coming back together as it has.

Cheers,
-T

[cobra]

The single adjustables are adjustable... so they should work with a pretty wide range of springs.

[Obioban]

This has been a great thread; very informative for us (me) less familiar with the nuances of the chassis/suspension dynamics if the E46. Thanks to everyone who has helped put this together thus far.

Ian, ~5 years ago you helped me diagnose a voltage issue on my E39 M5 that plagued me every night for months. I’m sure you won’t remember but thank you again for the help.

The consensus seems to prove that both Eibach and Dinan are the preferred springs to use assuming you want to replace springs only and keep favorable handling characteristics. Which I do. My car currently sits on Tein springs. I just had the suspension gone through and the shop installed Bilstein B4s when they replaced the SAs. I think I would like to move to Dinan springs.

Hopefully some of the more seasoned folks can help me understand if the current SAs will work with Dinan springs. Heck, do they even work with the Tein springs for that matter? I guess I’m trying to prevent replacing SAs if I can avoid it, seeing as how they are brand new and all…

Thanks everyone. Glad to see this group coming back together as it has.

Cheers,
-T

I don't have any experience with the B4s, but assuming they're same as the HDs, they'll work significantly better with the Dinan springs than the Teins.... and better still if you increase the bump travel a bit (trim the bump stops or, better, swap to camber plates that increase travel).

I'm unclear from your post if you're currently running SAs or B4s, and if SAs, what brand they are. If Koni SAs with Dinan springs, you should be pretty set without any further modification-- that is, in fact, exactly the pairing Dinan makes with their springs.

[Tbonem3]

B4s are twin tube, not monotube like b6. B4 is just OE replacement - meant for stock springs like the sachs are.

[r4dr]

B4s are twin tube, not monotube like b6. B4 is just OE replacement - meant for stock springs like the sachs are.

Yes, I made this mistake on my E91. The B4s only lasted ~40k miles on Eibach Pro-Kit springs. I have B8s ready to go in.

[Mayan-Viking]

I appreciate the feedback. It sounds like I will be going with Koni Yellows. Glad to know I'm going down the right path. Anyone need some minty B4s?

It looks like these are what I need. I have not too many fond memories of trying to dial in my M5 on KW V3s. More frustration than it was worth, unfortunately. So seeing that these are adjustable causes me a little concern. Is there a general setting for street cars that tend to work best for less aggressive springs like Dinan?

Thanks.

[Obioban]

I appreciate the feedback. It sounds like I will be going with Koni Yellows. Glad to know I'm going down the right path. Anyone need some minty B4s?

It looks like these are what I need. I have not too many fond memories of trying to dial in my M5 on KW V3s. More frustration than it was worth, unfortunately. So seeing that these are adjustable causes me a little concern. Is there a general setting for street cars that tend to work best for less aggressive springs like Dinan?

Thanks.

If you're looking for a no effort setting, I have Dinan's shock setting so those shocks with those springs on my computer at home.

[Mayan-Viking]

That's very helpful. Thank you very much.

Would I expect any benefit from the addition of a sway bay up front with this setup for street use?

[heinzboehmer]

If you're looking for a no effort setting, I have Dinan's shock setting so those shocks with those springs on my computer at home.

I saved this comment from you a while back so that I could easily reference it in the future: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...8700#post38700

The Dinan Koni yellows are unmodified Koni yellows. They just pre set them to
Front = 1/4 turn from full soft
Rear = 1-3/8 turn from full soft

[Obioban]

I saved this comment from you a while back so that I could easily reference it in the future: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...8700#post38700

Perfect, thanks!

[Mayan-Viking]

I saved this comment from you a while back so that I could easily reference it in the future: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...8700#post38700

Very nice. Thank you for that.