VANOS Rebuild

[Slideways]

to avoid this same scenario I'm thinking about buying a complete, pre-built replacement from say Dr. Vanos, and buy the VAC hub. Is that what you did to solve the headache?

When I asked back in 2024, Dr. VANOS said that they could machine the pump disc sent to them and ship it back in about a week or two.

[maupineda]

what is the vanos test procedure?

Run the test in either ISTA or DIS and hook a pressure gauge to the unit. Besides passing all test steps you need 100-115 bar of oil pressure at all times.

[maupineda]

to avoid this same scenario I'm thinking about buying a complete, pre-built replacement from say Dr. Vanos, and buy the VAC hub. Is that what you did to solve the headache?

I got a NEW unit, not rebuilt

[maupineda]

Was looking into this as well. I don’t think the prebuilt bundles come with an exhaust hub, and dr Vanos sells a Cryo exhaust hub. So I wonder if the drilled disc is supposed to pair with that specific hub. Getting a professionally rebuilt Vanos seems like a safer option than rebuilding it myself, but I want the satisfaction of doing it myself lol

Rebuilding = change seals is ok, and easy. But contrary to what internet says, is raaaaare the seals go bad. Even on high mileage cars.

anti-rattle kit is a waste of time in most cases. And it is true more can go wrong when cracking the splines open.

you want a hub that works with the factory disc, IMO Beisan missed the opportunity of not making their hub tabs larger, both, technically and commercially.

[ejendow]

Curious to hear everyone's two cents. I have yet to do the vanos on my car and am now wondering if I should just replace the upper chain guide, cam sprocket bolts, and put it back together. The exhaust hub tabs are intact with no damage to the disc (as of my last VCG change). I have not done a vanos test, but have no codes or drivability issues currently.

[TR_Beastmode]

Curious to hear everyone's two cents. I have yet to do the vanos on my car and am now wondering if I should just replace the upper chain guide, cam sprocket bolts, and put it back together. The exhaust hub tabs are intact with no damage to the disc (as of my last VCG change). I have not done a vanos test, but have no codes or drivability issues currently.

So am I. I feel even more confused about which way to go. I havent done any testing either, and have no codes. I do have some surging and I think I’m losing some low end torque. Could be other things though, a vacuum leak or something. I want to bulletproof everything I can though, and if there are common fail points I want to address them early.

[sapote]

to avoid this same scenario I'm thinking about buying a complete, pre-built replacement from say Dr. Vanos, and buy the VAC hub. Is that what you did to solve the headache?

If your pump works fine then why replace it with something that might have problem? Just have it drilled with 2 smaller holes for the stock driving tabs is the best way to bullet-proof it.

[sapote]

Curious to hear everyone's two cents. I have yet to do the vanos on my car and am now wondering if I should just replace the upper chain guide, cam sprocket bolts, and put it back together. The exhaust hub tabs are intact with no damage to the disc (as of my last VCG change). I have not done a vanos test, but have no codes or drivability issues currently.

sprocket bolts never a problem. The problem is the 12 bolts for the cam sleeves that need Loctite Medium strength. Should drill the disk with 2 smaller holes for the driving tabs, if not the plays will break the hub tabs.

[sapote]

I’m also starting to wonder if I even do the anti rattle kit. Doesn’t seem to make a lot of noise anyway, I was Just gonna do it because I’ll have everything apart already. I know they reduce noise by reducing play in the splined shafts though, so there is some legitimate mechanical purpose behind it. But is that worth doing if I dont care about the noise?

If yours have no axial plays then leave them alone. This is not an easy job and could ended up with a big headache.

[Slideways]

Thank you guys for your all your input. I’ve spent the last couple hours diving deeper into some things. I’m gonna explain things like you all don’t know what I’m talking about so you can follow my thought process, I’m not insulting you lol.

1) Sprocket bolts and Hub bolts: Beisan sells a kit with both bolt sets, for both intake and exhaust sides. The hub bolts are blue and “tell future technicians the Vanos has been worked on”. Plus, them being a cool blue color adds 5 HP at least. Hub bolts are torqued incrementally from 5Nm -> 7 Nm -> 10Nm -> 14Nm. The sprocket bolts are an “upgrade” over the stock BMW T30 torx bolts. Their procedure doc has torque specs for the BMW bolts (9 ft-lb/12Nm), but not for the replacement bolts. This makes no sense to me lol. Anyone know what those torque specs are? Or should I just remove the stock bolts, add loctite, and retorque them?

2) The upper timing chain tensioner bolt has a crush washer. Part #: 07119963342. This should be replaced when changing the upper tensioner. Beisans procedure doc mentions replacing the crankshaft chain tensioner crush washer as well. Part #: 07119963418. I’m assuming this is another name for the lower chain tensioner? Is this something I would even need to do if I’m not changing the lower tensioner?

3) Exhaust and Intake hubs have diaphragm springs and plates inside them. Beisan mentions replacing these with S62 parts because they’re an improvement. Is this something I should do?

4) VAC hub versus Beisan hub: VAC hubs are made from a stronger alloy and the drive tabs are bigger. Bigger tabs reduce tab-to-disc clearance to 0.2mm on a stock disc. Beisan goes the other way, they drill the new holes smaller. Their hub has reinforced tabs, and the disc is machined to match them. They claim a clearance of 0.05mm when a Beisan hub and disc are paired together. I guess if you’re looking to replace both the hub and disc, Beisan is the way to go. If your disc is within spec and not messed up, then VAC would be the way to go.

5) Chase Bays Vanos oil line. Factory line is $330-350 everywhere I can find it. Aftermarket lines, rouge engineering, bimmerworld, chase bays, are all like $60. Are any of the aftermarket lines good alternatives? Or just keep my factory line and replace the washers? I’ve got a very minor oil leak and I suspect it’s the oil line. That’s why I’m considering replacing it in the first place.

bonus point) Beisan used AI to edit/write their procedures and it’s infuriating. They left a lot of the AI wording in their docs. “Here’s that section rewritten with more synonyms for the word “note”!” And a whole section will be repeated. It’s so confusing to follow in some parts.

If the original hex cam sleeve bolts have not backed out, don't see any issue in reusing them. Apply oil/media resistant 243 Loctite.

The torx bolts are not an "upgrade" and are the same Class 8.8 bolt. Sometime in 2007, they decided to change all hex bolts to torx bolts. Easier to strip a hex than a torx I guess.

[PSUEng]

I got a NEW unit, not rebuilt

Me too and trying to determine best course of action. I guess my course of action depends on any exhaust hub tab damage once I open things up.

[TR_Beastmode]

Im gonna take it apart before ordering anything and just see how everything is. I’m gonna get my old Jetta back up and running so I’ll have a car while she’s out of commission. I’ll post pics and consult with you guys when the time comes. In the meantime I’ll keep reading and falling asleep watching rebuild videos lol

[~CSL~]

Me too and trying to determine best course of action. I guess my course of action depends on any exhaust hub tab damage once I open things up.

Did you get the vanos and solenoid pack as new as a pack - I was looking at the unit sold at FCP and cant figure out if it comes as a full assembly or just the top half.

Cheers,

[Obioban]

The drilled disk is supposed to pair with the stock hub. If your disk/hub are currently undamaged, that is the best, and cheapest, route to go.

[PSUEng]

Did you get the vanos and solenoid pack as new as a pack - I was looking at the unit sold at FCP and cant figure out if it comes as a full assembly or just the top half.

Cheers,

I bought a complete new VANOS from Bimmerworld last Black/Orange sale (2025). I haven't pulled it out of the packaging but based on their listing photos it appears to have new hub splined shafts with it and solenoid pack. At the time, the pricing was not much more than a new solenoid pack.