Originally posted by sapote
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Need help diagnosing problem after vanos update
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Thanks for the all of your responses. I originally didn't realize that I could rotate the cam as it takes extremely forceful short rocking motions. And a lot of them. I didn't try to rotate it past where the pin could be inserted but I'm guessing that it wouldn't go as I can see the piston is bottomed on the cap.
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I checked the exhaust cam sensor by checking voltage as I turned the crank. It changed from 5 volts to 0 as the cam rotated so my understanding is it is working correctly. However, I tried checking the crankshaft sensor the same way and it never changed from 2.5 volts. Not sure if that is indicating a problem as the sensor is only a few months old and I put my old sensor back in which as far as I know was still good and it showed the same results.Originally posted by sapote View PostDid you work on the EX cam sensor/wire? I don't think you touch the cam sensing wheel at the rear end.
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If you cannot turn the cam CCW passed the bridge pin position, then mechanically nothing have changed since you bolted them up.
Yes, it's very hard to turn the cam with 24mm wrench, because the splines were made with shallow slope (angle) for easy to turn cams by pistons linear motion but not the other way around. It's normal.
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Wouldn't the voltage test I did be conclusive for the cam sensor? I did pull the cams so as to clean the rocker arm rods as I couldn't initially slide the rocker arms over to do my valve adjustment.Originally posted by sapote View PostI start to think you might have EX cam sensor reading issue even though it was timed correctly. But why as you only worked on the VANOS.
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What voltage test? I didn't know that the cams were removed. Should let us know the whole thing at beginning so we have a full view of what had been done. Did you remove the cam sensing wheel?Originally posted by boadly View Post
Wouldn't the voltage test I did be conclusive for the cam sensor? I did pull the cams so as to clean the rocker arm rods as I couldn't initially slide the rocker arms over to do my valve adjustment.
You didn't answer about the piston bottomed on the cap -- how did you know?
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Do this to confirm the EX cam timing: remove the piston cap, then turn the cam CCW until it passed the bridge pin position about 10 degrees, then install the cap and torque the bolts properly and this should push and turn the cam back to the bridge pin position. If yes then the timing has not changed since you last bolted everything together.
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The test I described in post 32. No, I didn't remove the cam sensing wheel.Originally posted by sapote View Post
What voltage test? I didn't know that the cams were removed. Should let us know the whole thing at beginning so we have a full view of what had been done. Did you remove the cam sensing wheel?
You didn't answer about the piston bottomed on the cap -- how did you know?
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Not sure why this is necessary. As I've said I have correctly timed it multiple times, reinstalled the vanos correctly and then rechecked the timing after rotating the crank multiple times. It is always correctly timed when I bolt everything back up.Originally posted by sapote View PostDo this to confirm the EX cam timing: remove the piston cap, then turn the cam CCW until it passed the bridge pin position about 10 degrees, then install the cap and torque the bolts properly and this should push and turn the cam back to the bridge pin position. If yes then the timing has not changed since you last bolted everything together.
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