SPAL Fan Wiring (Basic Wiring Assistance)

[duracellttu]

It’s a little late for you, but I’m the past when I have contacted Zionsville, they’d told me they could weld in a bung with the SPAL threading. If I recall correctly the thread pitch on the SPAL sensor is 3/8” NPT, but double check that.

It would be a much cleaner install if you just drained and removed the radiator to get the proper bung welded in.

[Fresh1179]

It’s a little late for you, but I’m the past when I have contacted Zionsville, they’d told me they could weld in a bung with the SPAL threading. If I recall correctly the thread pitch on the SPAL sensor is 3/8” NPT, but double check that.

It would be a much cleaner install if you just drained and removed the radiator to get the proper bung welded in.

I agree %100. Since they sell a wiring kit (Spal) with the fan as part of an option, I was simply operating under the assumption that their (Spal) temp sensors would fit properly. Instead I was supplied with an non-spal sensor that is complicating the install. The question is whether I want to remove the radiator, empty it to the best of my ability wrap it, ship it back, wait for the existing bung to be modified or changed, wait for it to ship back. Reinstall it (not that bad) is and refill the system. I am trying to figure out if that is something I want to do you know? The current bung was certainly designed for the existing sender. I don’t know man., it’s a hard choice.


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[duracellttu]

I agree %100. Since they sell a wiring kit (Spal) with the fan as part of an option, I was simply operating under the assumption that their (Spal) temp sensors would fit properly. Instead I was supplied with an non-spal sensor that is complicating the install. The question is whether I want to remove the radiator, empty it to the best of my ability wrap it, ship it back, wait for the existing bung to be modified or changed, wait for it to ship back. Reinstall it (not that bad) is and refill the system. I am trying to figure out if that is something I want to do you know? The current bung was certainly designed for the existing sender. I don’t know man., it’s a hard choice.


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Trust me, I totally hear you. My recommendation is to take the extra time to do it properly and send back the radiator. The other benefit is that you have a SPAL sensor that is readily available and comes in two different trigger temperature options. In the long run you will be happier that it was done right.

[Fresh1179]

As a side note; the fan supplied with the unit was a 14 inch Dynosys by Spal. I know that people run the 16 inch model typically. I guess if I am shipping it back I might as well have them change the bracket for a larger fan with presumably large CFM? What models are people using these days?


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[WOLFN8TR]

14” Fan, what’s the CFM rating on it?

[Fresh1179]

Okay. So here is an update. I changed the wiring to correct my mistake. If I touch the grey temp sensor wire to ground it fires up the fan. However I don’t think the system has been properly bled, even though there is a constant stream of coolant with no bubbles from the bleeder screw.

Things that are confounding me.

1) The Thermostat Housing is hot, very hot.
2) The radiator is relatively cool, really cool. The portion where the temp sensor sits is cool, so I am worried that fluid is simply not reaching this area.
3) The disparity is the outlet temperature temps taken from INPA. There seems to be something off there.



Apologies for the photo, I bought this comp to run software.

I have a new temp sensor arriving soon. I shut the car off to avoid overheating. It doesn’t seem like the coolant is properly flowing through the radiator and there be an issue with the temp sensor. I’m confounded. If the sensor wasn’t holding in coolant I would drop it in a sous vide at 186 haha. Any ideas?


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[duracellttu]

Anytime you flush the coolant and re-bleed you need to make sure you open up the heater core. Elevate the front end, start the car, inside the cabin put heater on full blast with highest temp, then re-bleed through the bleeder valve. Let the car run for a few minutes to make sure you get all the air out.

[Fresh1179]

Alright. Update. So I wanted to make sure I hadn’t installed the thermostat upside down, even though I knew I didn’t. I didn’t. I’ve bled two times and am starting to get some heat on the right side of the radiator (looking from front) but the left side including the hose is still cold. I have bled the system twice, I guess I just need a continue to have a go at it until everything is right. I’m not getting any bubbles in when I bleed currently, however if I tap the sides of the radiator with my fist I can sometimes get some bubbles to appear.

Side note: I had that damn Shwaben Venturi bleeder somewhere that I am a tempted to try to find. They give you the psi required but not the CFM. I’ve never had it function at all and I believe it is due to the CFM. Oh well. Regular bleeding has worked in the past for me. Sounds like I just might have to keep at it for a while.


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[WOLFN8TR]

I had to bleed my system three times, I have a Koyorad radiator. Bleed, drive it, let it cool down and repeat. Make sure you turn the heater on as mentioned above each time.

[Fresh1179]

I had to bleed my system three times, I have a Koyorad radiator. Bleed, drive it, let it cool down and repeat. Make sure you turn the heater on as mentioned above each time.

So I am honestly at my limit. My neighbors are probably tired of the expletives. I have now bled the system (properly) six times. I haven’t gotten any bubbles from the coolant stream in the last 3 times. The car is exhibiting weird behavior. I asked a question about this in a different thread but I just can’t figure out what the hell us going on. Any thoughts on this?

1) Oil Cooler is ice cold after driving, as are the lines. Cooler is brand new. Lines worked fine when cooler was installed 100 miles ago.

2) The car simply does not cool down quick. At all. I finally gave up and waited 6 hours while I watched football. It had finally cooled and was cold. I put the keys in the ignition and the thermostat was in the blue zone, not resting against the left edge per usual. Thermostat is BMW. Brand new. I have a replacement if need be. I also replaced the lower radiator hose with a new Temp Sensor, again....the T-Stat housing gets so damn hot.

3) Are there any other sensors, or any ideas anyone has before I begrudgingly drop her off at the shop. I’m at a complete loss. I did recently delete my SAP (and code it out) but that is the only substantive change made to the vehicle with the replacement of the coolant system.

Guys, any other steps before I give her up?


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[duracellttu]

It sounds like your thermostat isn’t opening. If your thermostat housing is getting super hot but the hoses going to the radiator are cool then I’d replace the thermostat. If you have another one, boil a pot of water and throw it in there. Make sure it opens before installing it. Do the same when you remove the old one. That’s where I would start if I were you.

[WOLFN8TR]

It sounds like your thermostat isn’t opening. If your thermostat housing is getting super hot but the hoses going to the radiator are cool then I’d replace the thermostat. If you have another one, boil a pot of water and throw it in there. Make sure it opens before installing it. Do the same when you remove the old one. That’s where I would start if I were you.

That’s my thought as well. I tested my Tstat the same way before I installed it, easy way to see if it’s working properly.
You could just remove the Tsat and take it for a drive and see if the issue still exists. Good luck...

[Fresh1179]

Update. Boiled new t-stat, works perfectly. Installed it. Same issue. Superheated T-Stat housing, lower radiator hose cold.

Has to be an air issue at the point I think. I’m going to bleed some more then give up.

Also, other t-stat functioned flawlessly in boiler my water as well. Derp.

A confusing one for sure!


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[duracellttu]

Update. Boiled new t-stat, works perfectly. Installed it. Same issue. Superheated T-Stat housing, lower radiator hose cold.

Has to be an air issue at the point I think. I’m going to bleed some more then give up.

Also, other t-stat functioned flawlessly in boiler my water as well. Derp.

A confusing one for sure!


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Your sure your pump is moving the coolant!? So weird...

[Fresh1179]

It is a brand new pump OE pump. The only thing I can think of that may have any effect is I replaced my water pump pulley with an RE “power pulley”. Other than that I can’t figure out what could be going wrong.

Maybe my new pump detonated on arrival and the composite impeller is gone?! I can’t imagine that would happen. I went crazy and went out and checked my belt orientation (hah) because I’m at a loss. Perhaps there is just a massive air pocket somewhere, but you figure that could be resolved with bleeding.

The answer is I think the coolant is moving?!


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