Originally posted by Acarv_426
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What did you do for your M3 today?
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Is this better than the OEM ZHP route? I might be doing a manual swap and looking at all leather options versus the alcantara ZCP boot and knob combo.
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Time sert to the rescue. Only fix worth the effort. All of the other methods are temporary fixes. Get yourself a time sert kit, red loctite 262, locktite activator ans you'll be all set.1 Photo
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Welcome to my life. Same thing happened to me last month.Originally posted by smee123 View PostI stripped the oil pan drain for good measure, while giving it the yearly oil change
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I stripped the oil pan drain for good measure, while giving it the yearly oil change
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when I tell you I’ve read every suspension thread 50x, believe me - I have - shoutout to everyone here and abroad for the guidance. I gave this a lot of thought and waffled from OE-only to Koni/Dinan, to PSS10, and finally settled on TCK after months of deliberation.
Many thanks to Matt at Eurompire for his efforts and collaboration the last few months. Picked up the car yesterday, here’s what we did:
- CMP RACP reinforcement - bottom and top
- SPL adjustable rear control arms
- SPL Monoball RTABs
- BW solid subframe bushings
- Genuine/OE bushings everywhere else - diff, rear-upper/outer, etc.
- new diff cover/diff service
- front/rear hubs/wheel bearing
- rebuilt half shafts
- CSB/Guibo/all driveshaft bits - cv joint, gasket
- engine and trans mounts
- TCK SA 300F/600R
- bimmerworld adjustable front sway bar
- wheels refurb’d by Prince Wheel
- trailing arms and subframe powder coated
- found and replaced some misty PS lines
- genuine fan clutch/fan
My quest to restore this machine to a condition befitting of the marque continues - might just need to fire up a build journal at this point, Avedis recalling an early chat with you when I first got the car haha.
plan is to get 300-500 miles in and get a corner balance and finish dialing it all in.
It’s hard to comprehend all these changes coming from the tired stock suspension it had, but 200 miles in the car feels just incredible. Thank you Matt Eurompire !
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D'oh, not the TIS, the BMW service bulletin. But yes from my recollection the instructions call for leaving the subframe hanging by the control arms.Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
TIS has you do this with the subframe hanging? I guess I haven't ever read through the procedure.
Also, word of warning for anyone using the Turner guide, double check all the torque values with official BMW documentation. Some of the torques, angles, and bolt specs provided are incorrect (off the top of my head, the oil pan bolt spec and torque and shear plate bolt torques are incorrect)
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My car has been mostly in storage for the past 2-3 years due to my living/parking situation, but now that I've moved and can garage it at home, I've dropped it off at the shop for a comprehensive inspection and service. Can't wait to go start driving it often again!
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TIS has you do this with the subframe hanging? I guess I haven't ever read through the procedure.Originally posted by nahvkolaj View PostFinally got the rod bearing job finished last weekend. New oil pump pickup tube o-ring fitted after pulling the pan again. Replaced the oil pressure sensor for good measure. Still couldn't build oil pressure to get the light solidly off with just the starter (plugs out), but the light blipped. So there was something there.
Oil pressure light went out quick after first start. I think I've solved all my oil leaks except for possible RMS and the SMG reservoir. Next project should be manual conversion after I get some maintenance done on the E53.

I don’t know how the TIS expected mechanics to get the bolt angle swing done with the subframe dangling. It was hard enough to work around it just for the pickup tube
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Finally got the rod bearing job finished last weekend. New oil pump pickup tube o-ring fitted after pulling the pan again. Replaced the oil pressure sensor for good measure. Still couldn't build oil pressure to get the light solidly off with just the starter (plugs out), but the light blipped. So there was something there.
Oil pressure light went out quick after first start. I think I've solved all my oil leaks except for possible RMS and the SMG reservoir. Next project should be manual conversion after I get some maintenance done on the E53.

I don’t know how the TIS expected mechanics to get the bolt angle swing done with the subframe dangling. It was hard enough to work around it just for the pickup tubeLast edited by nahvkolaj; 06-02-2025, 07:57 AM.
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Finally got my O2 readiness monitor cleared. This has been plaguing me for the better part of a year now, so I'm glad I can finally go smog my car and use it again.
I've tried following the emissions cycle multiple times without complete success - even tried driving it at 3am with the cruise control set at 55mph and all of that. I'm not sure why this last drive finally got it done, but I went for a longer drive than I typical (even with the 15-20 mins at 55mph) which was about 45 miles of highway cruising.
Edit to add: I think the Cataclean helped me get the Catalyst Monitor to finally complete.
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Took it out of winter storage and charged the battery, trickle charger stopped working.
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Swapped out the120 N/mm (685 lb/in) front springs. Felt great on track but were a bit harsh for a daily driver. Wasn't unbearable but I wanted to soften it up and get closer to flat ride. Went with 9k (503 lb/in) Swift springs which is at the limit for these dampers. Any softer and I'd have to get them re-valved. I'm happy with the results. More compliant but still planted. Only bummer is one of the lock screws on spring perch is stripped 🙁
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Did a couple of different things, mechanical and visual.
Mechanical:
Replaced rear wheel bearings, rear hubs, and throttle position sensor 1 (car was throwing the EML code at the last track day)
Visual:
Started working with my vinyl guy on a graphic set for the car. This is NOT the final design as we were just playing with things. I can't wait to see where it goes next week
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