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  • Slideways
    replied
    Originally posted by nahvkolaj View Post
    It's finally rod bearing time. Got the top of the engine bay prepped yesterday and came across some annoying finds. Biggest one is that my water pump has been leaking and the shaft has some play after only 3 yrs / 17k miles. Idler/tensioner pulleys are all gone too. And I'm gonna bite the bullet and do a PS refresh because I have a few leaking lines.

    Anyone know where to get the AC (spring type tensioner) pulley only? Really don't want the whole tensioner.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    They don't sell it separately. For stuff like this, Sreten at M539 buys the complete assembly from a certain aftermarket brand and transfer the pulley to the genuine unit. Some of the aftermarket ones come with quality brand pulleys.

    I believe you could also convert the AC tensioner to the hydraulic type, same as the one for the drive belt. That pulley you can buy separately. Unfortunately, you do have to get the whole unit for the conversion.

    Leave a comment:


  • davidinnyc
    replied
    After 5 hours of baseball beginning at 8AM (I coach both kid's teams), continuation of my BBK installation today - Pierre is not really helping.

    Shaved the front knuckles and trimmed the rear dust shield, treated the raw aluminum and tin with POR rust preventative, and now that it's dry I've installed RR brackets. After test fitting the brackets I do not need any spacers to clear the ZCP/CSL rotors… should be smooth sailing from here.





    Last edited by davidinnyc; 03-01-2025, 09:57 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • nahvkolaj
    replied
    It's finally rod bearing time. Got the top of the engine bay prepped yesterday and came across some annoying finds. Biggest one is that my water pump has been leaking and the shaft has some play after only 3 yrs / 17k miles. Idler/tensioner pulleys are all gone too. And I'm gonna bite the bullet and do a PS refresh because I have a few leaking lines.

    Anyone know where to get the AC (spring type tensioner) pulley only? Really don't want the whole tensioner.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • sd561
    replied
    After a year of meticulous planning and research, the car finally arrived at the shop for RACP reinforcement and major suspension overhaul.

    Many thanks to Matt at Eurompire in Charlotte, NC for all of the coordination and efforts the last few months. he’s been great to work with!
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Ragincajun5220
    replied
    Finally got my euro bumper on. Damaged my original one on a rogue parking strip that I didn’t see

    shop had a hard time with the fitment but the trinity motorsports adjustable mounts helped a lot.

    paint correction is up next, the m needs some tlc
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Feffman
    replied
    Originally posted by nuc1 View Post
    Got a part number for the inner / outer CV joints?
    Mike:

    My axles are from The Driveshaft Shop. They don't show a part number on my invoice for the driver's side inner (attaches to differential) CV joint but it's a 108MM, 36 spline CV joint.

    The BMW part number for the CV joint is 26117841003.

    Feff


    Leave a comment:


  • 6speedS54
    replied
    Coolant flush, thermostat, gaskets, and coolant hoses replaced.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • BlueBimmers
    replied
    Paid $3.74 for Shell 93, made me happy. Enjoy the little things in life.

    Leave a comment:


  • nuc1
    replied
    Originally posted by Feffman View Post
    Refreshed (clean & regrease) the rear axles. Needed to replace the driver's side inner CV joint as it apparently overheated (nice blue tint) causing pictured damage. To help, I heat-shield wrapped the exhaust pipe which runs directly underneath the driver's side CV joint. Fingers crossed.

    Feff
    Got a part number for the inner / outer CV joints?

    Mike

    Leave a comment:


  • Feffman
    replied
    Refreshed (clean & regrease) the rear axles. Needed to replace the driver's side inner CV joint as it apparently overheated (nice blue tint) causing pictured damage. To help, I heat-shield wrapped the exhaust pipe which runs directly underneath the driver's side CV joint. Fingers crossed.

    Feff
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • ///Marecki
    replied
    After procrastinating for months, finally did the rear quarter seals. 😅

    It was cathartic.

    Leave a comment:


  • 6speedS54
    replied
    Originally posted by davidinnyc View Post

    I have another stubby sitting on a shelf in the garage if you want it.
    damn, I ordered one, should be here tomorrow. Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • fattycharged
    replied
    Originally posted by cakM3 View Post

    Thanks for posting pictures of this mount installed. I will be placing my order. I appreciate your recommendation!


    EDIT: I just placed my order for one of these exhaust mounts from Rogue Engineering.
    Same, I have to order one as well. One of my stock mounts is torn, so great timing on the suggestion

    Leave a comment:


  • cakM3
    replied
    Originally posted by BTB View Post

    Yes, it will limit movement of the muffler and should last longer than stock (FWIW I've only been running (1) of these for almost a year). To me it is just a great product overall, you can buy shims if you need to change the position of the muffler relative to diffuser. 1 track day down and no issues for me





    (my diffuser fitment has been screwed up for some time, please ignore hah)
    Thanks for posting pictures of this mount installed. I will be placing my order. I appreciate your recommendation!


    EDIT: I just placed my order for one of these exhaust mounts from Rogue Engineering.
    Last edited by cakM3; 02-27-2025, 05:17 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • 0-60motorsports
    replied
    Originally posted by davidinnyc View Post

    I managed to limp on and off the freeway ~20 miles over 2 hours… had to keep pulling off to the side with hazard lights and letting the car cool down just enough to get the SMG cog light to turn off.

    Needless to say the clutch fan is back in the car and I now have a clutch fan delete cap to give away!
    Also for SMG cars (I Love my SMG and would never swap to 6MT unless I had no choice) Do the SMG pump relocation, Thank me later LOL (it works in our extreme weather)

    Leave a comment:

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